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how much to tune a ssv manual?

AD07

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So his customers are happy & your only theory is a happy dyno.......good job !!!!
 

PIR4TE

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So his customers are happy & your only theory is a happy dyno.......good job !!!!

Yes. I have no beef with that, we all have to make a living, just that an AFM L77 @ 5150rpm (auto 4th gear std tyres @ 196kph) does not gain the claimed increase in Volumetric Efficiency from bolt ons and recalibration to make 270rwkw.
It is not my theory or guesswork, engine needs more rpm, lift and duration to generate more hp from increased CFM, there is no magic in the physical mechanics of an LS.
FFS man read some more, I'm telling you some potentially valuable info directly from first hand experience.
 

Heron SSV

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I think someone needs to walk the plank. Arrrrgh.
 

Kiddo

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Yes. I have no beef with that, we all have to make a living, just that an AFM L77 @ 5150rpm (auto 4th gear std tyres @ 196kph) does not gain the claimed increase in Volumetric Efficiency from bolt ons and recalibration to make 270rwkw.
It is not my theory or guesswork, engine needs more rpm, lift and duration to generate more hp from increased CFM, there is no magic in the physical mechanics of an LS.
FFS man read some more, I'm telling you some potentially valuable info directly from first hand experience.

I see what you mean about the correction factors being changed between runs too...

One common use of the dyno correction factor is to standardize the horsepower and torque readings, so that the effects of the ambient temperature and pressure are removed from the readings. By using the dyno correction factor, power and torque readings can be directly compared to the readings taken on some other day, or even taken at some other altitude.

That is, the corrected readings are the same as the result that you would get by taking the car (or engine) to a certain temperature controlled, humidity controlled, pressure controlled dyno shop where they measure "standard" power, based on the carefully controlled temperature, humidity and pressure.

If you take your car to the dyno on a cold day at low altitude, it will make a lot of power. And if you take exactly the same car back to the same dyno on a hot day, it will make less power. But if you take the exact same car to the "standard" dyno (where the temperature, humidity and pressure are all carefully controlled) on those different days, it will always make exactly the same power.

Sometimes you may want to know how much power you are really making on that specific day due to the temperature, humidity and pressure on that day; in that case, you should look at the uncorrected power readings.

But when you want to see how much more power you have solely due to the new headers, or the new cam, then you will find that the corrected power is more useful, since it removes the effects of the temperature, humidity and atmospheric pressure and just shows you how much more (or less) power you have than in your previous tests.

There is no "right" answer... it's simply a matter of how you want to use the information.

If you want to know whether you are going to burn up the tranny with too much power on a cool, humid day, then go to the dyno and look at uncorrected power to see how exactly much power you have under these conditions.

But if you want to compare the effects due to modifications, or you want to compare several different cars at different times, then the corrected readings of the "standard" dyno will be more useful.
 

HamaTime™

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Haha Sonny!, my case in point, good example, thank you!
Been there several times OTR, ECU, full system, tranny tune, framed chart... good service. But suffice it to say his dyno is happy hence a lot of customers are too.
Good on him, I've moved on from that, anyone promoting 270rwkw from the increased VE of an L77 at 5150rpm solely via artistic expertise in setting dependents for PID calcs on top of the branded brilliance of bolt-ons (while retaining AFM L77 intake and top end) is having a lend.
Install a custom manifold, ported TB, increase the lift, increase octane, alter timing and raise the injector cycle during PE on dyno to suit the low KR characteristics of ethanol, beef the valvetrain redline with indestructible nitrided springs and stronger moly rods and hey presto 270-285rwkw maxing out the L77 cam lift / duration limit @ 5650rpm.
Only then you see the need to crack the engine open and install a better cam. Or VVT.

What makes you think that anyone is actually going to believe you, over the constant evidence and testimonials of customers who have visited one of the most well known LSX related performance workshops in Australia?

A friend of mine who also happens to be my mechanic (when I need professional work done) works closely with EFI dynamics out in Lilydale, his dyno and tuning yields very similar numbers, and hey, so does APS in frankston, LSX in Hallam...

They all happy dyno's too?

Why is everyone constantly objecting to the blatantly obvious facts out there!!???

The numbers are what they are. Tunes are worth the money and unlock enormous untapped potential from massively detuned motors (not talking just Holden/LSX here) etc etc etc...

this thread is more bent than Elton John's sexuality.
 

PIR4TE

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What makes you think that anyone is actually going to believe you, over the constant evidence and testimonials of customers who have visited one of the most well known LSX related performance workshops in Australia?

OK mate, I believe you. His dyno is out of whack, like many others using J607 in my experience. An L77 auto with AFM does not flow enough to make 270+rwkw @ 5150 with bolt ons, ask your mechanic mate.

A friend of mine who also happens to be my mechanic (when I need professional work done) works closely with EFI dynamics out in Lilydale, his dyno and tuning yields very similar numbers, and hey, so does APS in frankston, LSX in Hallam...

They all happy dyno's too?

Apparently! Either that or you are confusing two different engines - a manual L98 to an auto L77?

Why is everyone constantly objecting to the blatantly obvious facts out there!!???

The numbers are what they are. Tunes are worth the money and unlock enormous untapped potential from massively detuned motors (not talking just Holden/LSX here) etc etc etc...

My objection is a notice to the OP underlining the commercial and practical nature of the transaction whilst pointing out the sheepish mindset of people who don't know better, exactly what are the pitfalls and value for money he can expect handing his hard earned to a technician on eBay (see OP's follow up to original post).
 

Heron SSV

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This thread is so much better in 3D
 

WazzaV8

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I just want a good setting for 91 ron, and that's how my car will always run as I don't plan for cams or blowers etc!!

Doesn't you owners manual say to run on Premium Unleaded, 91ron is Regular.
 
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