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How to change a ve diff?

pl0x

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Been scrolling through and can't find exactly what I'm after.
I'm changing my open diff to a lsd, and wondering what's the best way to get the axles out of the diff.

I had the two bottom arms of the hub unbolted and was prying the axle while a friend was lifting/pulling the hub. Axle seemed fairly stuck in place with the hub not offering alot of movement. Diff/driveshaft still bolted in place.

Is it better to unbolt another (middle front) arm off the hub to allow more movement there, or just apply more force to the pry bar, or drop the diff and pry while its hanging?

Cheers in advance
 

lowandslow

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The stub axles should only be held in with a circlip from memory. A sharp tap with a bar and hammer should move it.
 

pl0x

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Yea from the replacement diff it looks like you're right, circlip holding it in.

Thought I was giving it enough pressure to pop the circlip but maybe needs more of a jolt. I'll give that a crack tomorrow night.
 

RiCeY

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Try two pry bars one on each side
 

VTS5

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Did you remove one of the rear hubs out?
You have to allow enough space for shaft to come out.They are long shafts,,,
Do not damage the seals,easy to do

Once one of the shaft removed,you can pop the other one out,and while taking the diff out,it has to be tilted downwards. .Unless you remove both shafts ..
 
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pl0x

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Yea, I was going to post back here once done.

Basically I tried everything without removing one of the hubs but couldn't get the shafts out due to length. I probably did damage the seals but that diff is coming out for a LSD anyway, now I just need to swap the diff nose flange or get a coupler that suits the sv6 lsd diff.
Also I split the LHS inner cv boot by trying to lower the diff while axle was still half in.

If anyone is to do this in the future, these are the steps I took:
Remove wheels
Remove exhaust from cats back
Unbolt lower 3 arms on one side (I did this on the right)
On the other side (I did this on the left) - Unplug the abs sensor & twist brake line to unclip from the top arm, then unbolt all 4 arms, support this hub with a wheel (or leave a bolt or two in the arms) until ready to lower the diff
Unbolt all 6 bolts on the diff-driveshaft coupler & pry apart (mine was ceased to the driveshaft & diff)
Pry the axles out so the cir-clips aren't holding the axles in anymore
Support the diff with jack & unbolt the 3 bolts holding it in

This is where it gets tricky and my method didn't work so well, I'd try:
Protect the CV boots from the sub frames (put a rag or something around them)
If possibly use a 2nd jack on the RHS hub to get a better angle on the cv for when lowering the diff.
Pull the LHS axle out of the diff, you may need to lower the diff enough and pry the rear of the diff down so you can move it side to side or twist it. (I lowered the diff to much first and cut the LHS CV boot on the subframe).
Should be able to lower the diff, pry axles and twist/move the diff side to side until both axles are out.


Now I need to change the CV boot then re install the diff, should be easier now everything is apart.
 

VTS5

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This is the best way of doing it;
(Because you'll be working under the car in your garage/driveway/wherever)
Remove exhaust
Remove tailshaft,pry,Remove,
Undo 3 diff bolts,Remove nuts,leave bolts IN
Remove breather hose.

Remove LEFT rear wheel,
Remove break caliper hang it somewhere ,
Remove rotor,
Remove ABS sensor,
Remove handbreak cable ,

Undo top arm,lift it up,
Undo left side arm bolt,Remove,
NOW,,,Undo bottom arm nuts,Remove BUT leave the bolts IN,

Get under the car,pry the shaft out,
GET out,while wiggling the hub,pull the bottom bolts out,Remove it with the shaft attached..

Under the car again,
Pry the driver side shaft out,
Support the diff with your knees,pull the loose bolts out,
While prying the rear of the diff downwards out of its slot with s/driver,
Lower your knees,diff will start to drop,
Drop it sideway to free opposite side shaft.

45 minutes later,your diff should be on the floor.
 

pl0x

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Anyone know if you have to reset the diff if you change the nose flange?

V6 diff and driveshaft flange are smaller
 

VTS5

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Anyone know if you have to reset the diff if you change the nose flange?

V6 diff and driveshaft flange are smaller
Yes,, It's VERY IMPORTANT ,too tight,bearing will be stuffed,,,,,,,too loose,diff will scream,,so,it's VERY important to get it right...
 

pl0x

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Diff finally back in, had to get a mechanic to change the nose flange as I didn't have a 32mm deep socket and I didn't want to mess with resetting the diff.

Can confirm lsd is so much better than the old single spinner, and the 3.27 ratio is more lively than the previous 2.92.
Need to tune the trans to suit it and the bigger wheels, plus crispen up the shifts.
 
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