Cursed CX8
Banned
- Joined
- Feb 23, 2008
- Messages
- 1,475
- Reaction score
- 28
- Points
- 0
- Location
- Walking distance to FG meets
- Members Ride
- VY Adventra
its fairly simple to do...
1)First make a diagram of which way the engine belt runs around each of the pullies. This is essential if you dont know your engine too well because it stops you getting to the end and then realising you have no idea which way the belt goes.
2) with the tension still on the belt, undo the bolts on the front of the water pump pulley (i think its 4 little ones)
3) use a spanner to reduce the tension on the belt by forcing the tension pulley down.
4) Undo the bolts that hold the water pump in - to keep the bolts in check, put them in the correct positions in the new water pump.
5) once all the bolts are out, pull on the water pump, it may need a little convincing with a screwdriver. Water will gush out....NOW. You can drain the entire system first if you like, but its not necessary and will just cause you to need more coolant later on.
6) clean up the area on the block with a blade, make sure none of the old gasket is left on the block, take it back to metal. If you leave part of the old seal it will leak!
7) use a little non-hardening silicone (the red RTV silicone or locktight 2{spelling?}around the entire gasket area of the water pump and block, then add the gasket supplied (so the gasket is between 2 layers of silicone) Dont use so much silicone your cleaning it off for a month, but enough to seal it.
8) add the water pump back onto the block - many aftermarket ones dont have the 2 locating pins, so it may be necessary to hold the pump on with a couple of screws lightly tightened. It just stops the pump moving and disturbing the gasket.
Remember to locktight (non hardening) the bolts, I usually coat about 75% of the bolt. It just stops water breaking the seal and also works as a but of hydraulic and stops the bolts being moved over time. (do not apply it to the first few mm of the thread)
9) once its all on and tight (the torque specs are not important as the range is so great) as long as they are tight it will be fine. You can now slip the pulley back on - check the instructions with the pump, some need a spacing plate - some dont. if you need one but dont install it your pulley will rattle like mad and will not move correctly.
10) make the bolts finger tight then slip the belt back on to hold the tension so you can make the bolts night and tight.
11) once you are happy everything is in the right order and is correct, top the coolant level right up. Make sure the bleed screw is cracked to let any air out.
Its also a good idea to increase the hight of the radiator but shoving a bit of radiator hose in the top. This increases the hight of the filler making it easier to bleed.
Once a steady stream of coolant is coming out the top of the bleeder, close it off and let it sit for a minute or 2, then open it. Continue doing this till no more air comes out, only a constant stream of coolant. Once that is done rest the car a little to allow the seal on the water pump to bond before pressure is introduced to the cooling system. (not essential, but i prefer to)
Once you are happy, start the car with the heater on HIGH and HOT!. occasionally open the bleeder and top up the coolant in the hose sticking out the top of the radiator. Do this for 20-25min allowing the coolant temp to rise and open the thermostat and ensure no air is in the system. Then just close the bleeder, take the stupid hose hanging out the top out and then replace the radiator cap.
12) have beverage
1)First make a diagram of which way the engine belt runs around each of the pullies. This is essential if you dont know your engine too well because it stops you getting to the end and then realising you have no idea which way the belt goes.
2) with the tension still on the belt, undo the bolts on the front of the water pump pulley (i think its 4 little ones)
3) use a spanner to reduce the tension on the belt by forcing the tension pulley down.
4) Undo the bolts that hold the water pump in - to keep the bolts in check, put them in the correct positions in the new water pump.
5) once all the bolts are out, pull on the water pump, it may need a little convincing with a screwdriver. Water will gush out....NOW. You can drain the entire system first if you like, but its not necessary and will just cause you to need more coolant later on.
6) clean up the area on the block with a blade, make sure none of the old gasket is left on the block, take it back to metal. If you leave part of the old seal it will leak!
7) use a little non-hardening silicone (the red RTV silicone or locktight 2{spelling?}around the entire gasket area of the water pump and block, then add the gasket supplied (so the gasket is between 2 layers of silicone) Dont use so much silicone your cleaning it off for a month, but enough to seal it.
8) add the water pump back onto the block - many aftermarket ones dont have the 2 locating pins, so it may be necessary to hold the pump on with a couple of screws lightly tightened. It just stops the pump moving and disturbing the gasket.
Remember to locktight (non hardening) the bolts, I usually coat about 75% of the bolt. It just stops water breaking the seal and also works as a but of hydraulic and stops the bolts being moved over time. (do not apply it to the first few mm of the thread)
9) once its all on and tight (the torque specs are not important as the range is so great) as long as they are tight it will be fine. You can now slip the pulley back on - check the instructions with the pump, some need a spacing plate - some dont. if you need one but dont install it your pulley will rattle like mad and will not move correctly.
10) make the bolts finger tight then slip the belt back on to hold the tension so you can make the bolts night and tight.
11) once you are happy everything is in the right order and is correct, top the coolant level right up. Make sure the bleed screw is cracked to let any air out.
Its also a good idea to increase the hight of the radiator but shoving a bit of radiator hose in the top. This increases the hight of the filler making it easier to bleed.
Once a steady stream of coolant is coming out the top of the bleeder, close it off and let it sit for a minute or 2, then open it. Continue doing this till no more air comes out, only a constant stream of coolant. Once that is done rest the car a little to allow the seal on the water pump to bond before pressure is introduced to the cooling system. (not essential, but i prefer to)
Once you are happy, start the car with the heater on HIGH and HOT!. occasionally open the bleeder and top up the coolant in the hose sticking out the top of the radiator. Do this for 20-25min allowing the coolant temp to rise and open the thermostat and ensure no air is in the system. Then just close the bleeder, take the stupid hose hanging out the top out and then replace the radiator cap.
12) have beverage
