Welcome to Just Commodores, a site specifically designed for all people who share the same passion as yourself.

New Posts Contact us

Just Commodores Forum Community

It takes just a moment to join our fantastic community

Register

[VT-VX] How to: Change pads and rotors.

[email protected]

300rwhp supra. yay.
Joined
Apr 26, 2006
Messages
998
Reaction score
9
Points
0
Members Ride
TT Supra/HZ Ute.
Thought I'd throw this up with some photos.

Tools needed:
Jack, breaker bar with 19mm socket, torque wrench, clamp.



1: Crack wheel nuts and jack up.


2: Remove wheel and undo two bolts holding caliper. (as shown in pic)



3: Slide caliper off disc, remove disc and remove old pads by sliding the caliper open. (see pic)



4: Use the old pad and a clamp to push the pistons back into the caliper to allow for thicker pads. (see pic)



5: Remove any rust or dirt from the flat of the hub that contacts with the disc to ensure the disc runs true.


6: Place on new disc and slide caliper over disc. (may help to put a wheel nut on to hold disc straight)



7: Replace caliper bolts and tighten to correct torque spes. (I went to 75nm) and replace wheel.


8: When the car is back on the ground pump the brakes a few times to reset the caliper pistons. To bed in new pads avoid hard braking for around 400-500 ks.



An easy job that can be done in half an hour, saving you around $150 that a mechanic would be charging you for fitting.
 

Burt_vn

Back in the game
Joined
Jan 16, 2007
Messages
105
Reaction score
3
Points
18
Location
Gold Coast
Members Ride
VG V8 5spd, 400hp 5spd soarer, vq stato
Just to add, for those of you that are not replacing your rotors. Instead of removing the whole rotor all you need to do is unscrew one of the slide pins (shown in the picture) pull that slide pin out, you will then be able to lever the caliper up (pulling up from the side you undid the slide pin from) then you should be able to just push the caliper back, and the other pin will slide out by itself, then just follow the instructions as said above. And i have to correct you mate, to bed in the pads you dont avoid hard braking for 400-500kms...that would be avoiding bedding them in. To bed in new pads, or especially new rotors (note that bendix General CT pads do not need bedding in) find a nice straight road, drive your car up to around 80 km/h, than brake as hard as you can (avoid locking up the wheels) until you come to a complete stop. Repeat this process a few times, and yes, they will smoke a bit. You will notice your brakes to still be a little lacking in stopping power for possibly a week or two after, but once they are properly bedded in youll be pulling up in no time. :thumbsup:
Hope that helps some of you.
 

Attachments

Last edited:

Not_An_Abba_Fan

Exhaust Guru
Joined
Aug 18, 2006
Messages
14,321
Reaction score
856
Points
113
Location
Bunbury, WA
Members Ride
Strange Rover
Small correction.....do not come to a complete stop while bedding in as this tranfers too much heat into one spot on the disc where the pads contact it, could lead to hot spots in the disc resulting in a pulsating pedal. Better to brake hard until you get down to about 10kms then accelerate up again.
 

Burt_vn

Back in the game
Joined
Jan 16, 2007
Messages
105
Reaction score
3
Points
18
Location
Gold Coast
Members Ride
VG V8 5spd, 400hp 5spd soarer, vq stato
You know through all the mechanics ive known, and all my tafe teachers, and all the people i worked with at goodyear back in the day, Ive never been told that before. :thumbsup: thanks man, makes perfect logical sense to me, shall be doing that from now on, never even though about it. Aprreciate the knowledge :thumbsup:
 

Not_An_Abba_Fan

Exhaust Guru
Joined
Aug 18, 2006
Messages
14,321
Reaction score
856
Points
113
Location
Bunbury, WA
Members Ride
Strange Rover
No problem. During my apprenticeship I was never taught the correct bedding in procedure for brakes at all. That was 17 years ago. It was an AMCAP rep that told me about 5 years after.
 

commodore2004

New Member
Joined
Aug 6, 2006
Messages
105
Reaction score
4
Points
0
Members Ride
vz berlina
Just one question,if the car is fitted with ABS brakes shouldn't the bleeding be done when pushing the caliper back at the bleeding niple.
Other wise you might damage your ABS unit?
 

Not_An_Abba_Fan

Exhaust Guru
Joined
Aug 18, 2006
Messages
14,321
Reaction score
856
Points
113
Location
Bunbury, WA
Members Ride
Strange Rover
No, it won't affect it, all you are doing is transferring fluid, for the ABS unit to detect anything it would need a lot of pressure and the car to be on.
 

galahs

Member
Joined
Dec 4, 2006
Messages
140
Reaction score
13
Points
18
Members Ride
VT
Another tip... for the rear discs you may have to remove the rear shock absorber to get clearance.

Take the wheel off

With another jack, raise the rear suspension arm up an inch or so.

I used two people to do this next step. One to turn the bolt on the top of the shock (in the boot), while another person grabs the shock body from below (in the wheel arch) to stop it from turning.

Remove the bolt that holds the shock to the suspension

Shock slides straight off.


Now you can access the two bolts that hold the caliper on.
 

radarak47

I lean to the right
Joined
Jun 15, 2008
Messages
109
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Sydney NSW
Members Ride
VXII Acclaim
Thanks mate,

Worked a treat today when I did the front brakes and rotors. Will be doing the rears next weekend.
 
Top