[VT-VX] How to: Change pads and rotors.

[Hot-Rod]

Great Help easy job from now on.

Thanks for all the info it worked a treat except.

Those two 19mm bolts at the rear of the calipers. I couldn't believe how hard they were bolted on it was unbelievable. It took two males a good hour to work at the bolt breaking a ratchet, a 19mm socket and bending numerous spanners before we were able to loosen them. Unbeliveable. I know they had a plastic blue thing on the thread to stop it coming off, but in a 10 million KM's of driving those bolts still would be stuck to that damn caliper.

It made a 1 hr job 3 hrs!!! to replace the front rotors and brakes haha. At least we know for next time it won't be so hard if i ever have to replace the rotors again.


Thanks again 253@7k.........!!!!!!!!

 

[greenacc]

All I can say to you Hot-Rod is BREAKER BAR. Get yourself a 1/2inch breaker bar about 450mm long from the local tool shop. They can handle heaps more force than a ratchet and are extremely valuable when doing this kind of work. as for the sockets, well i guess you'll just have to upgrade to some nice single hex sockets. KOKEN ftw.

 

[Dayvo]

All I can say to you Hot-Rod is BREAKER BAR. Get yourself a 1/2inch breaker bar about 450mm long from the local tool shop. They can handle heaps more force than a ratchet and are extremely valuable when doing this kind of work. as for the sockets, well i guess you'll just have to upgrade to some nice single hex sockets. KOKEN ftw.

Or if you have limited space and can't get enough leverage on the breaker bar you can use a trolley jack under the socket wrench

 

[azzaVT]

Your jack handle // wheel brace is just the tool you need, if you don't have a dedicated breaker bar, at least this is the case for the VT... I discovered this while doing an emergency brake change on the side of the road, having just broken the only cheap and nasty ratchet I had with me.

 

[Flat_White]

is this the same for VY Bruzza?

 

[sah]

I am thinking of changing the rotors soon, as i get shuddering on the Steering and also pulsating on the brake pedal when i slow down from high speed.

I have been quoted $110 for machining the front discs. The new discs are also $110 for a pair of the normal RDA ones and around $240 /pair for the slotted BDA ones. I think it is better to change to the new ones as the cost is same for the normal ones.

Also i changed the front pads couple of months back. Hpefully i can use them. Any comments.

 

[Tom_1569]

I am thinking of changing the rotors soon, as i get shuddering on the Steering and also pulsating on the brake pedal when i slow down from high speed.

I have been quoted $110 for machining the front discs. The new discs are also $110 for a pair of the normal RDA ones and around $240 /pair for the slotted BDA ones. I think it is better to change to the new ones as the cost is same for the normal ones.

Also i changed the front pads couple of months back. Hpefully i can use them. Any comments.

DONT MACHINE ROTORS!!!
Cant say it enough, if they are warped, there warper, skimming the service will do nothing, they will be smooth to the next time you put any heat in the brakes. Mum got hers done, it last about 200k's and the shudder was back. Complete waste of money, and rotors are cheap and easy to replace.
I paid 111 each for DBA Slotter, been on the car near 20,000 K's and still not a sinlge problem and pulls up very nice.
Your pads maybe ok, personelly I wouldnt use them caus they havent been braking even so wouldnt have worn the best, but people have said you canrub them on the concret and buff them up or something.

 

[azzaVT]

Don't use secondhand pads on new rotors... the pads will be glazed and shaped to the old ruts and grooves, and your new rotors wont be so new for long if you jam those old pads up against them... not to mention, the combination of the two wont stop you anywhere near as quickly as you might hope//need to.

If your budget allows, get slotted and new pads... otherwise standards and new pads, if you can do the job yourself (not advised if you don't know what you're doing), otherwise get someone who does know to do it... for about $110.

A "budding" mechanic can always play with the bits that make the car go, but he should leave the bits that make it stop to someone who does it for a living. (my 2c)

 

[nicko]

Nice write up. Just did the VT pads then. Was a little stuck until i saw you could use a G clamp to push the piston back. Cheers, Rep left +1

 

[Ozzie]

Just followed your writeup.

Thanks sooooo much, I didnt think it would be do easy.

Not to mention how many $$$ I just saved upgrading to slotted all round