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[VT-VX] How to: Change pads and rotors.

Ramsey82

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I have just replaced my front brake pads. The brakes were bled but now I'm not getting any pressure at the brake pedal. What am I doing wrong? A step by step tutorial would be handy if anyone has the time.
 

Ramsey82

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Yeah I originally didn't, but my master cylinder was stuck and wouldn't go back in. The useless mechanic I called said bleed the brakes ......so I did. Thanks for nothing Tyre Power.
Anyways, I'm not getting pressure when the car is on. What am I doing wrong. What did I miss.
 

Not_An_Abba_Fan

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OK, you need to reset the brake switch. On the side of the master cylinder is a switch with 2 wires going to it, unscrew it until you hear a click, then do it back up. Your brakes should be fine after that.
 

Ramsey82

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I'll give it a go, but I was worried that air may have snuck back in when I was bleeding the brakes. Could this be possible. I'm just frustrated with this crummidore. Could it be as simple as unscrewing this thing you said.......Fingers crossed.
 

jafo

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if you didnt top up the master cylinder while bleeding the brakes air could have gotten in there but hopefully no one is that stupid not to
 

HARVZ-6

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Just one question,if the car is fitted with ABS brakes shouldn't the bleeding be done when pushing the caliper back at the bleeding niple.
Other wise you might damage your ABS unit?

the only problem is pushing the c**p fluid from the caliper up through the abs unit and with such fine tolerances in it parts can be damaged

and for bedding in, you shouldnt do what some people say and get up to a speed and slam the brakes on.. the massive heat increases can treat the composites in the pads turning then super hard ( like diamonds) and it will never brake properly again, brakes will most likely squeal and it will chop the rotors out


just drive normally and avoid hard braking for the first 100ks, you know when they cut in you can feel the difference

:thumbsup:
 

Not_An_Abba_Fan

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The proper bedding in procedure requires you to get to 60 km/h, brake HARD down to 10 km/h about 5 or six times. This cures the resins in the pads as well as causing the right amount of material transfer. When you can smell the brakes they are bed in. Then drive for about 10 minutes or so with as little braking as possible to let it all cool down. Not doing this will cause squealing and inefficient brake operation as it can glaze the pads and rotors.

The ABS unit is basically a series of solenoids that cycle fluid to the calipers, you can't hurt it by forcing fluid through it backwards. Every time you brake and release the pedal fluid goes through it backwards to the master cylinder.
 

GTRXU1

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removing rotors

been trying to remove the rotors but they are sezied on will heating them hurt the hubs?i have cracked 1 rotor by leavering it any help would be great
 

SS245

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been trying to remove the rotors but they are sezied on will heating them hurt the hubs?i have cracked 1 rotor by leavering it any help would be great

you need to tap around the centre as they get rust and gunk in there and grab on pretty tight, if your throwing the rotor in the bin feel free to give it a bash from behind on the face (if your planning on keeping them don't hit the face). Also if your doing the rears remember to release the handbrake or your not going anywhere, its still bloody tight though.

oh and when you change the pads make sure you putting them in the right way. the rears fit both ways and trust me its the quickest way to destroy a rotor.
 
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