[VT-VX] How to: Change pads and rotors.

[RIP~FPV]

Hey guys, what is a reputable brand of brakes for a vx ssII I am looking at changing mine but want some quality pads. Cheers

 

[uniacidz]

Bendix, Feroda and few others.

 

[All-Thumbs]

Changing rear brake pads for Commodore VX

I just want to add my own experience.
The originator of the thread had these steps which helped me a great deal:

1: Crack wheel nuts and jack up.
2: Remove wheel and undo two bolts holding caliper. (as shown in pic)
3: Slide caliper off disc, remove disc and remove old pads by sliding the caliper open.
4: Use the old pad and a clamp to push the pistons back into the caliper to allow for thicker pads. (see pic)
5: Remove any rust or dirt from the flat of the hub that contacts with the disc to ensure the disc runs true.
6: Place on new disc and slide caliper over disc. (may help to put a wheel nut on to hold disc straight)
7: Replace caliper bolts and tighten to correct torque spes. (I went to 75nm) and replace wheel.
8: When the car is back on the ground pump the brakes a few times to reset the caliper pistons. To bed in new pads avoid hard braking for around 400-500 ks.

To this I would like to add, for my VX rear wheels brake pads (2001 model):

• I had no need to remove the shocks, as someone elsewhere did, I could easily access everything.
• You do not need to remove both bolts from caliper, remove one and just loosen the other so you can just swivel the caliper up.
• I had to use two spanners - one to hold the inner nut on the bolt shaft - else the bolt-head will just turn around.
  (The inner nut on the bolt shaft is covered by a rubber hood)
• My rear calipers had only one piston and not two, and it took quite some clamping force to push it back.
• I did not bleed the break fluid or remove some of it from the tank etc. There were no spills and the tank level was OK afterwards.
  (It maybe better to do such things but I did not).

 

[Immortality]

I just did mine today, new pads and rotors on the rears.

I had to remove the lower shock as there wasn't enough room for my ratchet and socket although I was using a large/bulky 1/2" drive ratchet. I had no issues getting the bolts out, Holden did use a thread locking compound but a couple of crisp taps with my hand had em moving no issues

Whole job took about 3.5 hours with a good bit of time spent cleaning all the rust off the hub faces before the new shiny bits went on.

Using Brembo rotors and Cplus pads (carbon ceramic formulation) supplied by BNT.

I also cleaned and lubricated the calliper slide pins for good insurance all is working well.

Now it's time to bed the suckers in and get some lunch

 

[RWD4ever]

One thing I would add is check the old pads for even wear. I just changed mine and found right rear pads were a wedge, down to nothing at one end and 2 mm at the other.
And guess what - one of the sliding pins was stuck.

 

[VXCommo01]

I'm putting new rotors and pads on the front tonight. Never done this before but I'm reasonably confidient. I'm 100% sure the front needs doing as I'm getting the vibrating in the steering wheel. However I'm unsure about the back. If you do the front should you just do the back aswell? Or would you just do when you think it needs doing?

 

[VXCommo01]

Also I need a 19mm socket? Obviously a jack, and what else? I'll have a hammer incase the rotors stuck