How to Change the Oil in a VT/VX

[VT-565]

Look if you want to do a thorough job, after the oil has drained. Fill her up with some cheapy oil and run it for a little while and redrain the thing..

while this seems like a good idea, dont do it. if you are going to flush any sort of oil through your engine, make sure it is the same oil you have been running.
Let me tell you guys that most oils are different and so are the additives in them. detergents and stuff in there to clean and help lubricate your engine....some of these additives react with each other if theyre not compatable and can in some cases create mild acids. yes, acids. not the first thing you would want to pour into your engine.
Same goes for the engine flush sh*t too, you guys know that kerosine and diesel are actually cutting compunds? that means they are abrasive.....would you run an abrasive through your engine? a handful of sand maybe? didn't think so.
So, leave the magic engine flushes alone and stick with some of the same oil you are running to do the job. after all, you will never stop carbon deposits building up in your engine...thats what rebuilds are for.....happy motoring:thumbsup:

 

[mistaken]

Nice info regarding not flushing with cheap oil or oil flush liquid :thumbsup:

But bad news regarding the VT sump plug! ARGH! :ranting:

I will still attempt this tomorrow - hydraulic jack and stands at the ready :w00t:

 

[danja]

Thought I'd share my experience - spent a whole day just trying to undo the sump plug!. Unable to shift (had 2 other try). Ended up using mole grips and totally ruining the head.

Eventually had to go to Ultra Tune - a little embarrassed. They said - this happens a lot. Used a hammer and cold chisel to create a groove and tapped it free in about 20 secs.

The issue is that you need to have leverage space (my car was up on ramps - but the plug just wouldn't shift. So a 90k service ended up taking about a day - mostly with frustration.

All done now. make sure you have the correct spanner head. leverage room and muscle.

Exact same thing happened to me yesterday (and today...) It's the first time I've changed the oil on a Commy and was beginning to wonder if I was trying to undo the wrong nut!

Could you elaborate on how they got the sucker off?

 

[Shounak]

while this seems like a good idea, dont do it. if you are going to flush any sort of oil through your engine, make sure it is the same oil you have been running.
Let me tell you guys that most oils are different and so are the additives in them. detergents and stuff in there to clean and help lubricate your engine....some of these additives react with each other if theyre not compatable and can in some cases create mild acids. yes, acids. not the first thing you would want to pour into your engine.

If you choose a cheap oil with the correct SAE or API rating, it should be fine. Going a 20w-50 for the flush oil, when you nomally go 15W-40 shouldn't do any harm at all.. You're only running it for about 15 minutes..

I haven't personally done this, but I wouldn't imagine it would do much harm.. Provided you choose an appropriate oil, even if it isn't the same..

 

[Shounak]

Exact same thing happened to me yesterday (and today...) It's the first time I've changed the oil on a Commy and was beginning to wonder if I was trying to undo the wrong nut!

Could you elaborate on how they got the sucker off?

There's only one bolt under the engine.. It's the big 19mm bolt on the passenger side, just under the engine.. It's facing completely to the side..

This same thing happened to my girlfriend. She wanted to show me she could do an oil change and decided to suprise me (with her car thank god)..

She tried to get the sump plug off with an open ended spanner and ended up rounding off the hex and tightening it..

Which meant I was left with a round sump plug that hadn't been changed in 15,000km and a plug that was glued on..

I got a socket one size smaller, hammered it on and undid the bolt with a torque wrench about 60cm long. Lot's of leverage..

It worked a treat..

 

[VT-565]

If you choose a cheap oil with the correct SAE or API rating, it should be fine. Going a 20w-50 for the flush oil, when you nomally go 15W-40 shouldn't do any harm at all.. You're only running it for about 15 minutes..
I haven't personally done this, but I wouldn't imagine it would do much harm.. Provided you choose an appropriate oil, even if it isn't the same..

As i said in my post, different oils have different additives, even if it is the same vis. rating, you are still running the risk. don't get me wrong, if you mix two oils, it won't eat through your sump before your eyes or send your tappet cover to the moon, but on a microscopic level, which i have seen myself in tests, it can be detrimental to bearing surfaces, gaskets and metal surfaces in general. Only mix oil to get you out of a tight spot, but if you can avoid it, do just that.

 

[SSV8pilot]

Hi Danja

More detail - the sump plug was so baddly ruined - a spanner or socket was no use - as I said I ended up trying mole grips.

What Ultra tune did...First had the car up on the hoist - obviously gives better leverage.

He got a mallet and cold chisel. The sump plug is actually quite a soft material. He used the chisel to great a slight groove in the nut head. Once done, he used the same groove to tap the plug free - simple really. Tool about 20 secs.

Hope yours works out ok. Worth the embarressment of getting the garage to do (and the peece of mind to know you can get it off). I was dreaming up all sorts of elaborate plans of trying to syphon oil from the filter housing, unscrewing the sump etc etc.

Any way good luck

 

[bradcad]

while this seems like a good idea, dont do it. if you are going to flush any sort of oil through your engine, make sure it is the same oil you have been running.
Let me tell you guys that most oils are different and so are the additives in them. detergents and stuff in there to clean and help lubricate your engine....some of these additives react with each other if theyre not compatable and can in some cases create mild acids. yes, acids. not the first thing you would want to pour into your engine.
Same goes for the engine flush sh*t too, you guys know that kerosine and diesel are actually cutting compunds? that means they are abrasive.....would you run an abrasive through your engine? a handful of sand maybe? didn't think so.
So, leave the magic engine flushes alone and stick with some of the same oil you are running to do the job. after all, you will never stop carbon deposits building up in your engine...thats what rebuilds are for.....happy motoring:thumbsup:

you are right about a couple of things

one safe way to flush properly- local aussie mob produces their own oil which is fairly detergent in itself- actually also produce a complete fill oil flush which can be used 4 or 5 times. People who have used the flush report incredible amounts of carbon and sludge being dropped. usually followed by a power increase. And yes- it is safe to use

the trick is using an oil and flush which are compatible. full synthetics and minerals are not compatible. As you dont need to flush every oil change, maybe just spend the extra couple of bucks and flush with the same oil you are running.

I get my oil analised for free every 5000 k's, and only flushed it the first time I changed onto their oil. After monitoring the oil lasts generally 25 000k's before it is due to be changed. This is without flushing every oil change- just pouring 500ml through it while its draining

 

[Hairy Eater]

I seen this idea of making a cheap filter removal tool... get 4 to 6 inches of half or one inch thick walled squared steel RHS ... then cut a groove down the middle of one side to just more than the width of some seatbelt webbing ... get a piece about 12 inches of seatbelt webbing ... turn the ends and sew them or melt the ends to stop it slipping out of the groove ... put both ends of the webbing in the slot... put the webbing over the filter ... use half inch socket rachit drive in the end of the squarw tube .... then just wind up the webbing and when it gets tight it wont slip but undo the filter....

 

[VT-565]

I seen this idea of making a cheap filter removal tool... get 4 to 6 inches of half or one inch thick walled squared steel RHS ... then cut a groove down the middle of one side to just more than the width of some seatbelt webbing ... get a piece about 12 inches of seatbelt webbing ... turn the ends and sew them or melt the ends to stop it slipping out of the groove ... put both ends of the webbing in the slot... put the webbing over the filter ... use half inch socket rachit drive in the end of the squarw tube .... then just wind up the webbing and when it gets tight it wont slip but undo the filter....

there is already a filter tool in production which uses strap and a 1/2 inch drive, they are great, because i have never seen one fail to get the filter off.