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How to fit thermo fan bypass switch

Immortality

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Bilbs

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Said test done, anything i can do to prove commsirac wrong :D
Vehicle: VR V8 Ute Manual
Thermostat: Open full at 88deg
Ambient: 26

Ok, first of all commsi, thermostat temp is TOP of radiator, would you like a lesson in the design of a cooling system, nah, im sure you will be able to google it like everything else, Bottom is the eng inlet temp, and top is the eng outlet temp, bottom cold, top hot, get the picture?

Ok, connected scantool to car today, went to live data, and bought up engine temperature, ran engine till up to operating temp then went for a drive

Idling with just engine fan : 85deg
idling with eng fan and thermo : 79 deg
driving at 40 without thermo : 86 deg
driving at 40 with thermo : 84
driving at 80 without thermo : 83 deg
driving at 80 with thermo : 82 deg
driving at 110 without thermo : 84 deg
driving at 110 WITH thermo : 85 DEGREES!

It was hotter, hmm, me thinks the the turbulence of the fan with the incoming ram air dont mix to well together at high speeds, hmm, might have to do this again next summer on a HOT day with 2 1/2 tonnes of race car and trailer behind me also :)
 

savage1987

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lol well there you go.

immortality, commsirac, cheap6 and morton, well done to keep that debate as well-structured and relatively friendly as you did!! Reputation added for each of you :)

Sam
 

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Im starting to appreciate the problem here is you lack of comprehension and engish grammar skills.........or do you just grab at anything to create a smoke screen to hide your initial blunder.

Sorry to be jumping in here again. However, this is the thing that annoys me the most about you, commsirac. We are not here to criticise the way others type, this is, after all, the internet. A beautiful place where like minded people can all play happy and get along, and where they can type things however they like to, since after all, after typing all day to your mates, the last thing you wanna be worrying about is a full stop here, or a comma there. But this bubbly wonderful world turns to a place that no one wants to be when people like you cant play nice and leave peoples typing skills out of the conversation. So to sum it up in the short version, this is a thread about how to manually turn the thermo fan on, not an attempted hijack to show the world how 'Oh so clever' you are, of to diss someones typing just to make you feel better.
 

commsirac

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Said test done, anything i can do to prove commsirac wrong :D
Vehicle: VR V8 Ute Manual
Thermostat: Open full at 88deg
Ambient: 26

Ok, first of all commsi, thermostat temp is TOP of radiator, would you like a lesson in the design of a cooling system, nah, im sure you will be able to google it like everything else, Bottom is the eng inlet temp, and top is the eng outlet temp, bottom cold, top hot, get the picture?

Ok, connected scantool to car today, went to live data, and bought up engine temperature, ran engine till up to operating temp then went for a drive

Idling with just engine fan : 85deg
idling with eng fan and thermo : 79 deg
driving at 40 without thermo : 86 deg
driving at 40 with thermo : 84
driving at 80 without thermo : 83 deg
driving at 80 with thermo : 82 deg
driving at 110 without thermo : 84 deg
driving at 110 WITH thermo : 85 DEGREES!

It was hotter, hmm, me thinks the the turbulence of the fan with the incoming ram air dont mix to well together at high speeds, hmm, might have to do this again next summer on a HOT day with 2 1/2 tonnes of race car and trailer behind me also :)

???
Was the data ^ meant to prove anything? You have just quoted the temp at the top hose, its going to vary a little depending on rpm, but basically it has stayed constant at thermostat temp.
You need to quote the temp at the bottom hose(inlet engine temp) as well as the top hose to make any conclusions at all, you have suggested there is a sensor for the inlet/bottom?, why havent you given that data?
This is a v8 with a clutch fan? you really cant assume the clutch fan is doing the same thing at similar rpm unless you actually measure its speed as well
 
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202injected

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okies very interesting debate peoples,

I would like to chuck my 2 cents in the well if i may....

I have for years now been playing with 186/202's ranging from stockers to high compression even forced induction ones (i run a black EFI 202 with CRS charger running 12psi).
Now anyone who knows commodores or holdens for that matter, know that the old straight sixes love to cook for you, entree' of blown CHD gasket followed a maincourse cracked head with flogged bores as a side dish.
I have played around with many different fan setups mechanical, viscous, electric and combinations.
I have run several tests under idle, cruise and even full track conditions. mostly analouge test the same as mentioned here, with a gauge in the top ( Commsirac read: TOP, trust me on this i build engines for a living ;), unless you have a magical commodore that pumps water backwards the bottom hose will only tell you how effective the radiator is, as soon as the coolant enters the block the temp raises very quickly) and have found similar results to what Bilbs has posted when using a combination of engine driven and electric fan, where the temp rises at speeds above 50-70kph. When using a single electric fan the speed at which they become redundant varies on fan speed, fan size and quantity of fans, but usually between 70kph and 100kph. Depending on ambient temp and cooling system health as long as the car is moving at above 50kph is should be able to run at around thermostat opening temp or just above without the need for any sort of fan.
A perfect example is the humble old Volkswagen flat 4, they done even run a cooling system yet can withstand all but the most tar melting Aussie summers with just a 8 inch engine driven fan, and to top it off the block is magnessium (year 7 science. Mg + bunsen burner = sore eyes). the only reason they burn to the ground is cause the stupid nazi's, in all ther wisdom hung the carby dirrectly over the hot exhaust.

Im not gunna bore you with sats and figures, thats irelavant. all i am saying is that the is method the "not work over 40kph" but 40kph is selling it a bit short, it is more like 60kph.

In my situation i found the answer to be a 16" davis craig thermo fan, an on temp of about 10-15 deg C above STANDARD thermo stat temp and an off temp of above 5 deg C below. but each application is different. Also for cold days and track days ( yes an electric fan robs power by loading up the alternator) i have an overide switch to turn the fans off, but this sits right next to a LARGE, ACCURATE temp gauge with a big over temp waning light ( Iused an old shift light, maybe over kill but better safe than sorry).:thumbsup:
 
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savage1987

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Sounds like a good setup, 202injected. Here's a question for you, is it really worth upgrading a 5L clutch fan to an AU set? I'm interested to hear your take on that.

Sam
 

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Hi there, I have a 1996 VS Series 2. Where would i find the ECU set of wires. I have checked on the passengers side and its not there.

Is it on the drivers side or did i miss something?
 

Cheap6

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Hi there, I have a 1996 VS Series 2. Where would i find the ECU set of wires. I have checked on the passengers side and its not there.

Is it on the drivers side or did i miss something?

Yeah, you missed something :) . The PCM (ECU) is on the left hand side of the passenger's footwell. It will be behind a sheet metal plate designed to stop bypassing of the anti-theft system.

The wiring is (just) accessible without removing the plate but it's much easier to ID wires/connectors with it removed. Removal can be done by drilling the heads off the rivets holding the plate and punching the rivet mandrels through. The rivets are hard - understandably with an antitheft measure - so it can take some effort.
 

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Sweet, thanks cheap6. i will give it a go tomorrow!
 
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