How to fix the sticky indicator in a VZ Commodore (BCM)

[srk13]

This is just what I'm after! Has anyone got a relay to sell me?

Steve

 

[dolsen]

Hear you loud and clear Taffy Evans.... Maybe I am jaded, but I do tend to believe that products these days are produced with a 'designed fail date' to ensure ongoing income for the producer.

I did mention some thoughts I had about the high failure rate of these in a previous thread,

I may be totally incorrect with this, but, it seems to make sense

"Note2 – below is just a thought I have, not proven.
Looking at the datasheet, it states

“AgSnO2 contact is suitable for the lamp load, inductive load and motor load, while AgNi contact is suitable for resistive load.”

The AgSnO2 contact is identified by the code T.

Based on this, I would have expected the code to be
HFKM 012 SHST, not HFKM 012 SHS
I haven't looked if there is anything special downstream from this relay that would allow the resistive version of the relay, but, it could explain why there are so many issues from this part.
It is possible that Holden have a custom run of these relays that have the lamp contacts, or, there is some other explanation, so, it's not necessary because they used the wrong part."

 

[Matt_XIII]

Well after spending a week trying to source my own Relay I have come to the conclusion I shall do what everyone else has been doing...

bcw61 do you still have any relays left?

 

[bcw61]

Well after spending a week trying to source my own Relay I have come to the conclusion I shall do what everyone else has been doing...

bcw61 do you still have any relays left?

PM sent, re BCM relays.

 

[bcw61]

I did mention some thoughts I had about the high failure rate of these in a previous thread,

I may be totally incorrect with this, but, it seems to make sense

"Note2 – below is just a thought I have, not proven.
Looking at the datasheet, it states

“AgSnO2 contact is suitable for the lamp load, inductive load and motor load, while AgNi contact is suitable for resistive load.”

The AgSnO2 contact is identified by the code T.

Based on this, I would have expected the code to be
HFKM 012 SHST, not HFKM 012 SHS
I haven't looked if there is anything special downstream from this relay that would allow the resistive version of the relay, but, it could explain why there are so many issues from this part.
It is possible that Holden have a custom run of these relays that have the lamp contacts, or, there is some other explanation, so, it's not necessary because they used the wrong part."

Just for information, when I went out to source relay Part Number: HFKM012SHS, the supplier informed me they had been superseded by relay Part Number: HFKM012SHST, which has upgraded contacts. Hence this is why I only have relay Part Number: HFKM012SHST. I doubt the BCM OEM would have have knowingly used an incorrect relay in the first place, but obviously the relay OEM has seen issues with the original part number, and has superseded accordingly.

The relay OEM must have spies on this forum, and has responded by modifying their product accordingly. :rofl2:

 

[srk13]

Have just finished fixing my BCM with a HFKM012SHST relay that I purchased off BCW61. Everything works perfectly and the whole process was very simple. I went to an auto elec for all the soldering work as I don't have a soldering iron but the rest of the process was a walk in the park.

Finally get to use keyless entry again!

Thanks again Bruce!

 

[JBDrifter]

Picked up my relay today and will attempt the fix tomorrow hopefully.

For those of you that did the soldering yourselves, how did you de-solder the old relay from the PCB? I'm confident with soldering but have never actually de-soldered anything off an PCB before.

 

[bcw61]

Picked up my relay today and will attempt the fix tomorrow hopefully.

For those of you that did the soldering yourselves, how did you de-solder the old relay from the PCB? I'm confident with soldering but have never actually de-soldered anything off an PCB before.

Before carrying out repairs on your BCM, ensure that you have an static safe environment (the use of the correct anti static equipment and observance of static precautions would be highly recommended).

Open the BCM and locate the relay. To desolder in the absence of a dedicated desoldering station, use some desolder wick or a desoldering tool to remove all the solder from the pins of the relay. Ensure that you carry out the desoldering process as quickly as possible, to prevent damage to the PCB or tracks. If you 'measle' the PCB or the tracks lift off, then you have taken far too long. LOL

After you have correctly removed all the solder from the relay pins, the relay should then be able to be lifted off and removed from the PCB.

If you are still not sure how to go about it, I would strongly recommend that you consult someone who has experience.

 

[JBDrifter]

Before carrying out repairs on your BCM, ensure that you have an static safe environment (the use of the correct anti static equipment and observance of static precautions would be highly recommended).

Open the BCM and located the relay. To desolder in the absence of a dedicated desoldering station, use some desolder wick or a desoldering tool to remove all the solder from the pins of the relay. Ensure that you carry out the desoldering process as quickly as possible, to prevent damage to the PCB or tracks. If you 'measle' the PCB or the tracks lift off, then you have taken far too long. LOL

After you have correctly removed all the solder from the relay pins, the relay should then be able to be lifted off and removed from the PCB.

If you are still not sure how to go about it, I would strongly recommend that you consult someone who has experience.

Thanks mate, I have a good idea about how to go about it. I'm an electrician and obviously do quite a bit of soldering with my work, but not a hell of a lot of work on small PCB's. Although I have tinkered with them before and like I said, I am confident with soldering the relay back on but have never de-soldered anything off a PCB so was wondering how the DIY'ers on here went about it. Solder wick seems to be the best option for me.

UPDATE:
Just completed the repair. Bought myself a solder pump from dick smith today and used that to desolder. Wasn't the best tool, if I was to do it again I'd definitely use solder wick next time, but nonetheless I got the job done and it all works perfectly.
Once again, a big thanks to bcw61 for sourcing and supplying the relays! I can finally start using the remote again and feel a little more eased at night knowing the alarm is active.

 

[Ray De Man]

Just received my relay today from BCW61. Can't wait to get it all fixed up.

Cheer bud :yahoo: