MaccasRun
New Member
- Joined
- Dec 18, 2012
- Messages
- 5
- Reaction score
- 4
- Points
- 3
- Location
- WA
- Members Ride
- Follow my Page at: www.facebook.com/tommelling228
How to install Astra Electric Power Steering on a VY SS.
To get some questions out of the way:
Why do you need this? Because the standard pumps are notorious for cooking themselves when drifting.
Why do they cook themselves? Because of high revs at full lock.
Why cant i just install a giant cooler and res and maybe a bigger pump pulley? you can. This is just an alternative.
Where do i get this? from a 1998-2006 holden astra.
Is it easier than i think? Yes
Are there any downsides? They can be loud, but that depends on your mount. Rubber mounts = less noise. They also take a while to start up when you first start the car. Takes 5-10 seconds.
With this you'll never have to worry about your power steering ever again and you can smash limiter until the motor blows up.
STEP 1: Delete the standard power steering pump and res. Leave the fluid lines there though. We need those.
You need to unbolt the power steering pump and res and route the belt like this
You will need another idler pulley off another waterpump and a washer to space it out. the washer needs to be 3-4mm thick with a 15+mm inner diameter.
This will replace the small smooth pulley
Use This Belt (6PK1420)
It will look like this
STEP 2: Mount the thing. I put mine where the airbox goes. Dont worry, otr is going on as soon as i get a tune.
I made this aluminium mount
and also mounted it to the wheel well.
looks like this
STEP3: Wiring the thing.
Wiring is simple. Power Ground and Remote. Easier than wiring an amp.
You need to run atleast 8gauge wire, They use ALOT of current.
I ran a 30amp inline fuse to be safe.
EDIT: THE 30A FUSE BLOWS IF YOU HOLD IT ON FULL LOCK FOR TOO LONG.
I UPPED MINE TO A 60AMP AND IT SURVIVED BEATING ON IT RELENTLESSLY AT DRIFT PRAC.
Heres the wires on the pump. Both remotes are needed for it to turn on.
EDIT: NEW INFORMATION HAS COME TO LIGHT. IF YOU DELAY ONE OF THE REMOTE WIRES, BY GIVING IT POWER 1 SECOND LATER, THE PUMP WILL SPOOL INSTANTLY.
I DON'T HAVE THIS INFORMATION MYSELF BUT IT'S OUT THERE AND WORTH LOOKING INTO.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/117598048272577/permalink/3300676336631383/
Heres my power connections with the fuse
I found the fuel pump wire and spliced into that for the remote.
Its the bigger purple one going back into the firewall from the fusebox.
EDIT: DONT DO THIS. THERE ARE BETTER WAYS. SEE EDIT ABOVE.
STEP4: Adapt the fluid lines so you can attach a braded hose.
So, theres two fluid lines. a high pressure and a low pressure. the low pressure is simple.
its just move the rubber hose that used to go to the standard res over to the res on the new pump.
The standard hose is pretty long and reaches where i have it. Literally just a hose clamp. Easy!
The high pressure you'll need a bunch of fittings. Here are some pics of said fittings.
For the pump side. (Speedflow 741-06)
And For the other side, where I'm adapting to the line coming from the rack. (Aeroflow AF712-06)
Speedflow don't make this, only aeroflow do.
Then you can attach any standard braded hose with -6an hose ends.
I used 100 series stuff but thats up to you. i used a 90 and a straight hose end with 45cm of hose.
Fill it up. You make it self bleed by turning the wheel lock to lock.
USE PENRITE LDAS OR SIMULAR, YOU NEED THE EURO STUFF!
"LDAS SYNTHETIC, FOR LATE MODEL EURO CARS".
[/IMG]
AND YOURE DONE!! EASY AS!!
It cost me less than a new cooler and res.
And i will hopefully never have to worry about power steering again
To get some questions out of the way:
Why do you need this? Because the standard pumps are notorious for cooking themselves when drifting.
Why do they cook themselves? Because of high revs at full lock.
Why cant i just install a giant cooler and res and maybe a bigger pump pulley? you can. This is just an alternative.
Where do i get this? from a 1998-2006 holden astra.
Is it easier than i think? Yes
Are there any downsides? They can be loud, but that depends on your mount. Rubber mounts = less noise. They also take a while to start up when you first start the car. Takes 5-10 seconds.
With this you'll never have to worry about your power steering ever again and you can smash limiter until the motor blows up.
STEP 1: Delete the standard power steering pump and res. Leave the fluid lines there though. We need those.
You need to unbolt the power steering pump and res and route the belt like this
You will need another idler pulley off another waterpump and a washer to space it out. the washer needs to be 3-4mm thick with a 15+mm inner diameter.
This will replace the small smooth pulley
Use This Belt (6PK1420)
It will look like this
STEP 2: Mount the thing. I put mine where the airbox goes. Dont worry, otr is going on as soon as i get a tune.
I made this aluminium mount
and also mounted it to the wheel well.
looks like this
STEP3: Wiring the thing.
Wiring is simple. Power Ground and Remote. Easier than wiring an amp.
You need to run atleast 8gauge wire, They use ALOT of current.
I ran a 30amp inline fuse to be safe.
EDIT: THE 30A FUSE BLOWS IF YOU HOLD IT ON FULL LOCK FOR TOO LONG.
I UPPED MINE TO A 60AMP AND IT SURVIVED BEATING ON IT RELENTLESSLY AT DRIFT PRAC.
Heres the wires on the pump. Both remotes are needed for it to turn on.
EDIT: NEW INFORMATION HAS COME TO LIGHT. IF YOU DELAY ONE OF THE REMOTE WIRES, BY GIVING IT POWER 1 SECOND LATER, THE PUMP WILL SPOOL INSTANTLY.
I DON'T HAVE THIS INFORMATION MYSELF BUT IT'S OUT THERE AND WORTH LOOKING INTO.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/117598048272577/permalink/3300676336631383/
Heres my power connections with the fuse
I found the fuel pump wire and spliced into that for the remote.
Its the bigger purple one going back into the firewall from the fusebox.
EDIT: DONT DO THIS. THERE ARE BETTER WAYS. SEE EDIT ABOVE.
STEP4: Adapt the fluid lines so you can attach a braded hose.
So, theres two fluid lines. a high pressure and a low pressure. the low pressure is simple.
its just move the rubber hose that used to go to the standard res over to the res on the new pump.
The standard hose is pretty long and reaches where i have it. Literally just a hose clamp. Easy!
The high pressure you'll need a bunch of fittings. Here are some pics of said fittings.
For the pump side. (Speedflow 741-06)
And For the other side, where I'm adapting to the line coming from the rack. (Aeroflow AF712-06)
Speedflow don't make this, only aeroflow do.
Then you can attach any standard braded hose with -6an hose ends.
I used 100 series stuff but thats up to you. i used a 90 and a straight hose end with 45cm of hose.
Fill it up. You make it self bleed by turning the wheel lock to lock.
USE PENRITE LDAS OR SIMULAR, YOU NEED THE EURO STUFF!
"LDAS SYNTHETIC, FOR LATE MODEL EURO CARS".
AND YOURE DONE!! EASY AS!!
It cost me less than a new cooler and res.
And i will hopefully never have to worry about power steering again
Last edited: