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How to install extractors (ecotec V6)

Discussion in 'Holden Commodore How-To's' started by Marks-VY, Mar 25, 2007.

  1. Marks-VY

    Marks-VY I love cars

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    Well, other than a few scratches on my hands and some aching muscles (I need to exercise more...) I have fitted the extractors (and cat back system) without any real probs.

    For those of you thinking about doing it, here are some instructions and photos.

    Stock Manifold:
    First, I removed the leads (I was replacing them as part of my servicing), engine cover, air intake cover and maf pipe. Also, from under the car I removed the nuts attaching the manifolds to the engine y-pipe and oxy sensors (remember to unplug them first). There is one more nut to undo on the passenger side, which I think is the EGR or similar. At this stage the manifolds are ready to be removed.

    Undo the lock nuts first, noting where the clips for the spark plug leads were fastened. Then start loosening the manifold bolts (they look like nuts on studs but the whole stud comes out). The rear driver side bolt was very difficult to access, so best to start with that one, so that you are not stuck with one stubborn bolt. Carefully lift the manifolds up and out of the engine bay without scratching anything. I noticed mine did not have any manifold gasket and I would be interested if this is the same for all models.....:confused:

    At this point you need to remove the engine pipe/cat from the rest of the system, or else you cannot pass the extractors down through the space between the engine and the inner guard. Only two nuts so it doesn't take long.

    Extractors:
    I did not receive any instructions with my extractors so I was not sure if I should have installed gaskets. I did not have them with me so I left them out (no leaks so far!!).

    Also, if you have them welded to the engine pipe (the y-piece that includes the catalytic converter), you can never remove them as they need to be remove from the top, so I cut a couple of slots in the flange, and used u-bolts to fix them in place. Note there may be a tendancy for the flange to close in on the hacksaw if you do this, but it makes later removal so much easier.;)

    Carefully pass the extractors down into the engine bay and line up the manifold with the cyliner head, having a bolt in one hand ready to screw into place to hold the extractors. Start returning all bolts but leave loose until they are all in, as there seems to be a lot of play until they are all in. Start tightening evenly until ready to torque.

    Engine y-pipe modification:
    Now the only tricky bit! You need to temporarily bolt the cat back onto the exhaust system, to work out where to cut it. You will notice by the photos that a lot of pipe is removed, including the support posts (note mine is a manual so an auto might be slightly different??). Once bolted loosely into place, lift the y-pipe up so it is level with the extractors, and mark it with a marker texta, sufficient so the pipes will push through the entire flange on the end of the extractor.

    Use an angle grinder with a metal cutting blade and wear eye/ear protection. I reckon you would be there a long time with a hacksaw but if you don't have an angle grinder it may need to do. File all the cut ends to ensure there are no sharp edges or burrs that may make installation difficult. Also, make sure you remove any filings that could clog the cat converter.

    Final installation:
    Under the car, slide the cut ends into the flanges of the extractors. There may be a chance they do not align perfectly, so either find a mate to work on one side while you are on the other, or I wrapped an ocky-strap around the extractor pipes just to pull them in enough to align with the y-pipe. With a bit of convincing they should slide into the flange so that the cat can be bolted back into the exhaust system.

    Refit the oxygen sensors into the extractors and screw in the egr pipe. Replace all leads and maf pipe etc, in reverse of the removal.

    Start the car up and allow the oils and surface paint to burn off (there may be a lot of smoke...). Then after a final check to see all is tight, you are done!

    In my case I fitted the cat back system that I had removed a while ago, which only requires two bolts where it joins the Y-pipe, plus 4 retaining clips that hold the hanger rubbers in place.

    I am sure it is not my imagination that it has a little more bottom end, but the best part is the growl from about 2800rpm!:thumbsup:

    If anyone knows if gaskets should be installed, let me know!!.

    Good luck!:thumbsup:
     

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    Last edited: Apr 1, 2007
    greenfoam, vsquest and Spaced like this.
  2. Spaced

    Spaced New Member

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    Admins please make this is a sticky and move to how to section. Very good write up mate.
     
  3. Raptorsc

    Raptorsc RAPTR6

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    Yep a good write up for sure
     
  4. Jesse-James

    Jesse-James Jesse-James

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    thats going to be VERY handy. thanks mate.
     
  5. Marks-VY

    Marks-VY I love cars

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    Thanks for the comments guys! Can anyone let me know if gaskets should be installed? So far there has been no sign of leaking and I have been giving the car some hard work (sounds better that way.....)
     
  6. Not_An_Abba_Fan

    Not_An_Abba_Fan Exhaust Guru

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    As far as I know, HM headers are the only ones to recommend not fitting gaskets. As long as you used an O2 sensor safe sealant on them. I would be going to get some gaskets anyway so you have them on hand when they do leak.
     
  7. [JUDGE]

    [JUDGE] New Member

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    why have u got a resi at the back, doesent that make it quiter?
     
  8. Marks-VY

    Marks-VY I love cars

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    That is the resinator that comes with the Redback system. If you hold it up to the light it is actually a straight-through muffler with a serated bore. Yes, it is quieter although in my "old age" I don't want to harass the neighbours and I don't want cops to harass me!
     
  9. fuzzy2308

    fuzzy2308 New Member

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    ood wright up buddd
     
  10. terry1991

    terry1991 New Member

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    nice right up can u list like all the tools and stuff please would be a great help!
     
  11. the_random_hero

    the_random_hero New Member

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    If you want to do it properly, you'll need a decent set of spanners, sockers and a big screwdriver, plus some sort of welder. Most exhausts I've seen attached by U clamps have had leaks, no matter how tight the clamps are.
    Always use a gasket, even if it's just the original one with a good coating of sealant over it.
     
  12. vxcalais_01

    vxcalais_01 Active Member

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    What extractors (brand) are these by the way ??? How were the gains ?
     
  13. vxcalais_01

    vxcalais_01 Active Member

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    Easily one of the best write ups.....
     
  14. delcowizzid

    delcowizzid on holiday

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    shame about the horribly done bends in the extractors and y-pipe not the most performance oreintated setup thats for sure .wouldnt be expecting much gain over stock manifolds.good write up though
     
  15. vxcalais_01

    vxcalais_01 Active Member

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    These look like Lukey Headers, black coating, with the almost bulbous shape in the pipes. They look the same as the pipes shown on the Lukey website, similar bends. Even if they were press bent, i am sure Lukey know plenty about designing these things........
     
  16. jashdown91

    jashdown91 Jashdown?

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    i dunno if you noticed the difference in length between the old manifold and the new extractor? but if you ask me, the old manifold would be the equivalent of us breathing through a straw. you would be surprised at the increase you get just from extractors

    good write up mate.
     
  17. Klint_VS

    Klint_VS New Member

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    and one snap a headder stud?? i need measurements for them
     
  18. mithunt

    mithunt New Member

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    Thanks for sharing:surprise:
     
  19. flawnt

    flawnt New Member

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    the two bolts closest to the firewall on the drivers & passenger sides have been snapped (looks like prior to me touching it) what the hell do i do now? :S
    and also im having a bit of difficulty with the 2 nuts that connect the drivers side stock manifold to the y-pipe, any tips? its on a VS
     
  20. Not_An_Abba_Fan

    Not_An_Abba_Fan Exhaust Guru

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    If you are fitting extractors, it doesn't matter about the flange nuts that connect the Y pipe. Just snap them off.

    With the broken studs, I weld a nut to the end of the stud and then undo them. Drilling them and retapping is difficult because of their location.
     

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