Jono.Mc.
New Member
- Joined
- Feb 27, 2016
- Messages
- 4
- Reaction score
- 2
- Points
- 3
- Location
- southern highland N.S.W.
- Members Ride
- 2006 VE Calais V High output 3.6 auto
Hi all.
So many people ask and get me to do this and I don't mind at all, so here it is in writing, it's no secret (sorry electricians out there) that you just need a negative trigger from the switch.
To keep it simple, my son's car had no factory options for fog lights. He brought the car with a sv6 body kit fitted.
There is no wiring, relay or fuse in the engine bay for these to work.
Told him to purchase a cheap fog light install kit off eBay (one light bezel was cracked) for about $70.
Came with the fog lights and surrounds, wiring and some crappy switch.
The kit was wired for a positive trigger which won't work on a VE and had to be rewired to a negative trigger.
Yes negative, the fog light work on a negative circuit from the switch (orange wire) to the BCM then to the relay (green and white wire). please don't debate me I worked at holden in Sydney as a mechanic (installed 2 sets of fog lights on omega's (via a hole engine bay wiring loom and box) and even the manuals diagram shows a negative trigger (Sorry but a few So called mechanics that knew I was doing this for my son told him it won't work, and they should take it to them for a proper install). Yes, the BCM is under the dash above your right foot. No, you don't need to tell the BCM you have fog lights (never encounted this) and the head lamp switch you have will work unless its stuffed which is a bugger.
The time it took to install for me was just over an hour as I know what was where and what. Just take your time and relax take breaks, if you get frustrated step back reset and go again.
This method should work for even the most novice people, more experienced people will find that better earth and power points, attach the relay to the fuse box etc etc .
Now that that's out of the way.
It's up to you if you need to remove your battery + lead (I didn't because I'm not breaking into the looms and computers, and it only takes a second to solder the wires being a small gauge) and I don't hold any responsibilities for people's stuff ups.
First install the Fog lights to your bar buy removing the bar and fitting the lights themselves and run the wiring next to the horn on the right-hand side up to the fuse box area.
* Remove the clips holding in the guard liner and pull the guard liner out.
*undo the 2 bolts either side top corner of your bar.
*undo the screws underneath the front of your bar.
*undo the 2 bolts at the top in-between your head lights and pull out towards you the front bar.
*pop out the inserts and insert the ones from your kit.
*bolt in the fog light bezels (left and right doesn't matter).
*clip in the wiring in and run the wiring inside the engine bay as stated above.
Reinstall the front bar in revers from uninstall method.
The wiring from the kit is not all needed like throw the switch away and probably two more wires too if it's a light up switch.
Next is to pull out the female connectors from the plug going into the relay provided and rewire as follows.
Standard is. We need this.
87- accessories FL + 87- accessories FL +
85- ground 85- -Trigger (BCM)
30- 12v constant 30- 12v constant Bridge 30 and 86 together (use the same gauge wire).
86- +trigger in 86- 12v constant
Attach your ground from your fog lights, 12v constant from the relay (30 and 86) and 87 to + on the fog lights.
Bundle it together and run the negative from the relay (85) to inside the cabin via the rubber Gromit surrounding the main wiring harness.
Inside the cabin.
*remove the decorative strip above the steering collum by levering it with a plastic pry tool to release the clips holding it.
*remove the right side pannel of the dash (just clips again) by pulling out towards the driver's door.
*remove the cover just under neath the steering collum just by pulling it towards you (same type of clips) and disconnect the head lamp switch.
*remove the three clips holding the bonnet release lever in place (just like the guard liner).
* undo the two screws holding the plug just underneath.
*remove the bottom plastic guard underneath the dash by pulling down (same clips as before).
*undo the screws on either side holding the metal brace. under the steering collum and remove it.
Now you can see the BCM in behind all that stuff you just removed.
reach up and lift towards you and down and it should just come down cradle and all.
We need to tap into the green and white wire with our negative wire from the relay, solder them together or use a crappy wire connector clip which I strongly don't recommend.
Now that all the wiring is completed, connect the head lamp switch and test the fog lights and yes you have to turn the key to systems check and the lights to at least parkers on then pull out the switch for fog lights on.
Pat youself on the back and open another beer cause you did it, well done and without that stupid switch they provide in the kit.
Once checked reinstall everything in reverse order of removing.
Happy fog lighting or something loke that.
Jono
So many people ask and get me to do this and I don't mind at all, so here it is in writing, it's no secret (sorry electricians out there) that you just need a negative trigger from the switch.
To keep it simple, my son's car had no factory options for fog lights. He brought the car with a sv6 body kit fitted.
There is no wiring, relay or fuse in the engine bay for these to work.
Told him to purchase a cheap fog light install kit off eBay (one light bezel was cracked) for about $70.
Came with the fog lights and surrounds, wiring and some crappy switch.
The kit was wired for a positive trigger which won't work on a VE and had to be rewired to a negative trigger.
Yes negative, the fog light work on a negative circuit from the switch (orange wire) to the BCM then to the relay (green and white wire). please don't debate me I worked at holden in Sydney as a mechanic (installed 2 sets of fog lights on omega's (via a hole engine bay wiring loom and box) and even the manuals diagram shows a negative trigger (Sorry but a few So called mechanics that knew I was doing this for my son told him it won't work, and they should take it to them for a proper install). Yes, the BCM is under the dash above your right foot. No, you don't need to tell the BCM you have fog lights (never encounted this) and the head lamp switch you have will work unless its stuffed which is a bugger.
The time it took to install for me was just over an hour as I know what was where and what. Just take your time and relax take breaks, if you get frustrated step back reset and go again.
This method should work for even the most novice people, more experienced people will find that better earth and power points, attach the relay to the fuse box etc etc .
Now that that's out of the way.
It's up to you if you need to remove your battery + lead (I didn't because I'm not breaking into the looms and computers, and it only takes a second to solder the wires being a small gauge) and I don't hold any responsibilities for people's stuff ups.
First install the Fog lights to your bar buy removing the bar and fitting the lights themselves and run the wiring next to the horn on the right-hand side up to the fuse box area.
* Remove the clips holding in the guard liner and pull the guard liner out.
*undo the 2 bolts either side top corner of your bar.
*undo the screws underneath the front of your bar.
*undo the 2 bolts at the top in-between your head lights and pull out towards you the front bar.
*pop out the inserts and insert the ones from your kit.
*bolt in the fog light bezels (left and right doesn't matter).
*clip in the wiring in and run the wiring inside the engine bay as stated above.
Reinstall the front bar in revers from uninstall method.
The wiring from the kit is not all needed like throw the switch away and probably two more wires too if it's a light up switch.
Next is to pull out the female connectors from the plug going into the relay provided and rewire as follows.
Standard is. We need this.
87- accessories FL + 87- accessories FL +
85- ground 85- -Trigger (BCM)
30- 12v constant 30- 12v constant Bridge 30 and 86 together (use the same gauge wire).
86- +trigger in 86- 12v constant
Attach your ground from your fog lights, 12v constant from the relay (30 and 86) and 87 to + on the fog lights.
Bundle it together and run the negative from the relay (85) to inside the cabin via the rubber Gromit surrounding the main wiring harness.
Inside the cabin.
*remove the decorative strip above the steering collum by levering it with a plastic pry tool to release the clips holding it.
*remove the right side pannel of the dash (just clips again) by pulling out towards the driver's door.
*remove the cover just under neath the steering collum just by pulling it towards you (same type of clips) and disconnect the head lamp switch.
*remove the three clips holding the bonnet release lever in place (just like the guard liner).
* undo the two screws holding the plug just underneath.
*remove the bottom plastic guard underneath the dash by pulling down (same clips as before).
*undo the screws on either side holding the metal brace. under the steering collum and remove it.
Now you can see the BCM in behind all that stuff you just removed.
reach up and lift towards you and down and it should just come down cradle and all.
We need to tap into the green and white wire with our negative wire from the relay, solder them together or use a crappy wire connector clip which I strongly don't recommend.
Now that all the wiring is completed, connect the head lamp switch and test the fog lights and yes you have to turn the key to systems check and the lights to at least parkers on then pull out the switch for fog lights on.
Pat youself on the back and open another beer cause you did it, well done and without that stupid switch they provide in the kit.
Once checked reinstall everything in reverse order of removing.
Happy fog lighting or something loke that.
Jono