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How to replace engine mounts?

Fitzy3VSVY

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Hey ppl I have a VS V6 and my engine mounts have collapsed or broken or something and they need to be replaced, the mechanics arround here where I live want between $485.00 to $650.00 to replace them but if I can is it something that I would be able to do myself at home and if I can what will I need and how much will the new mounts cost?
thanx Danny...

(God Bless u Peter Brock) :(
 

markovr

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Fifty bucks each from supercrap ...when you do it take the bonnet off ..2 bolts..one on each side and it slides forward you need a second operator of course to take it out, might be a idea to take the throttle body off so it doesnt hit the firewall as you are lifting the engine up and undo the exhaust at flanges.... lift the engine from above with a chain block, winch etc and at first lift up to take the weight and undo the lefthand side .... air con compressor etc has to come out and be pushed to one side clear and unbolt old l/h mount at k frame nuts and undo alloy bracket bolts to engine block and take whole mount and bracket out as a unit and unbolt and rebolt new mount to alloy bracket and tighten nuts securely and sit new mount and bracket in place letting the bottom studs go through the holes on the k frame but dont put the bolts back on the alloy bracket to engine yet and leave the bottom mount stud to k frame nuts loose too, lift the undo the right hand mount upper and lower nuts and raise the engine higher to get clearance to get r/h mount out...you can even move the engine from side to side a little since its now totally suspended by the lifting device at the front and take out old r/h mount and replace with new one and tighten top r/h mount nuts back up but leave the bottom mount studs to k frame nuts loose on the studs to move everything around to get the bolts back in the aluminium bracket to engine on the lefthand side and with some lowering and raising of the winch to get everything to line up and after you do up the aluminium bracket to engine block securely bolt the air con compressor etc back up and lower engine and tighten the r/h and l/h bottom stud nuts when all the weight is back on the mounts ...too easy about 2-3 hours work if you have the right tools(winch chain etc)
This 2 mount method is far easier to do that the individual ones in two different stages because you can move the engine around with it totally suspended.
 
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Adzzaman

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You make it sound easier than it is. We did mine at my mates mechanic workshop on hoist with all the tools. Absolute **** of a job. Eveyone said it was gonna be a stuggle and it was. We had to drop the extractors aswell on mine.
 

markovr

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It is a job that tests you patience but after doing 3 sets of them I found if you do the righthand one with the engine lifted before you bolt up the lefthand one to the engine it was easier than bolting the lefthand completely and fighting physics to get the right one back in .It might be a good idea to undo the flange at the cat before you lift the engine (all the cars I did had cast iron manifolds and they didnt have to come off...also one bolt on the air con compressor bracket is hard to undo ...I think I ground down a ring spanner so it fitted.
I made up a bracket (simple small piece of 3/16 flat steel with 2 holes drilled on bottom to mount to 2 studs on exhaust manifold and large hole above to put a d shackle through) that bolted to the right hand side manifold studs so I could sling a chain across the front to make lifting the engine easier. Another problem that I created on one fitting was that a old return line for the power steering started leaking....hose was old and cracked as the engine was lifted...so check this out after everything is back in place.
 

don0xer

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Did this a couple weeks ago on the calais. What a fk around it was :(
The drivers side mount was way easy to get on/off and back in again, but the passenger side took about another 2 hrs of umming and ahhing shaking/wobbling/jacking higher/lower/taking out other mount/trying again ect.

Once youve done it youll find its secrets and alot easier next time youd need 1 or 2 :p

Ps. on a diff note :( Is the tranny mount hard to do also? is it the same mount as the engine one or completely diff? ive recently discovered after changing my 2 eng mounts ive got a heavy vibration feeling/noise coming from the pedals/wheel within the coming seconds of my gear shift, hope its not the uni joint or HB :(
 

goldvnaero

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yeh drivers side is the easy side,passenger side is a pain in the ass and very time consuming with alot of abuse gettin yelled out.lol
 

Cheap6

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If the difficulty lies in putting the 'mount studs into the cross member holes, the trick is to put one side in, just start the nuts on that side and gently (just) rest the studs on the other side onto the cross member. Tehn use a screw driver across the studs to pull each of the studs into their holes in turn.
 

AttaBoy

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Do you guys lift the engine from under the car?? If so how??
 
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