How to replace engine mounts?

[losh1971]

I think I will get a mech to do mine. I have been quoted 150 bucks to do both with me supplying the mounts. I will however ask him not to jack the engine up under the sump.

 

[gtrboyy]

I put car up on jack stands then use engine hoist to lift engine.

Had hard time doing driver's due to powersteer lines & clutch cable in the way also was so much gunk could not turn turn nuts with fingers when loose.

I also did one side at a time but only had mounts on by few threads to keep engine located.

Not the hardest job but really annoying that tests your patience.

 

[Dunlop]

Fifty bucks each from supercrap ...when you do it take the bonnet off ..2 bolts..one on each side and it slides forward you need a second operator of course to take it out, might be a idea to take the throttle body off so it doesnt hit the firewall as you are lifting the engine up and undo the exhaust at flanges.... lift the engine from above with a chain block, winch etc and at first lift up to take the weight and undo the lefthand side .... air con compressor etc has to come out and be pushed to one side clear and unbolt old l/h mount at k frame nuts and undo alloy bracket bolts to engine block and take whole mount and bracket out as a unit and unbolt and rebolt new mount to alloy bracket and tighten nuts securely and sit new mount and bracket in place letting the bottom studs go through the holes on the k frame but dont put the bolts back on the alloy bracket to engine yet and leave the bottom mount stud to k frame nuts loose too, lift the undo the right hand mount upper and lower nuts and raise the engine higher to get clearance to get r/h mount out...you can even move the engine from side to side a little since its now totally suspended by the lifting device at the front and take out old r/h mount and replace with new one and tighten top r/h mount nuts back up but leave the bottom mount studs to k frame nuts loose on the studs to move everything around to get the bolts back in the aluminium bracket to engine on the lefthand side and with some lowering and raising of the winch to get everything to line up and after you do up the aluminium bracket to engine block securely bolt the air con compressor etc back up and lower engine and tighten the r/h and l/h bottom stud nuts when all the weight is back on the mounts ...too easy about 2-3 hours work if you have the right tools(winch chain etc)
This 2 mount method is far easier to do that the individual ones in two different stages because you can move the engine around with it totally suspended.

Hope you don't mind me following up this thread as it's a few years old now, but Ihad my VR V6 engine mounts replaced about ten months ago by a really good young mechanic - it cost me about $400.

I note you said "This 2 mount method is far easier to do that the individual ones in two different stages because you can move the engine around with it totally suspended." I read that someone else on this site said the same thing a while ago and I'm sure he said "You just unbolt and move the air con compressor to one side...".

The mechanic - who has full equipment and a hoist built into the floor that can lift a four wheel drive had the car for most of the day. He said "It was a bastard of a job - we had to lift the engine and drop the frame to get them in." I was also told by another experienced mechanic that it was a 'really difficult job' to get them in.

I'm just baffled how anyone could say the job is 'easy' or have I misread this?

Thanks.

 

[Immortality]

It's not an easy job but there is no need to drop the subframe.

 

[Lex]

Hope you don't mind me following up this thread as it's a few years old now, but Ihad my VR V6 engine mounts replaced about ten months ago by a really good young mechanic - it cost me about $400.

I note you said "This 2 mount method is far easier to do that the individual ones in two different stages because you can move the engine around with it totally suspended." I read that someone else on this site said the same thing a while ago and I'm sure he said "You just unbolt and move the air con compressor to one side...".

The mechanic - who has full equipment and a hoist built into the floor that can lift a four wheel drive had the car for most of the day. He said "It was a bastard of a job - we had to lift the engine and drop the frame to get them in." I was also told by another experienced mechanic that it was a 'really difficult job' to get them in.

I'm just baffled how anyone could say the job is 'easy' or have I misread this?

Thanks.

It is easy when you move the compressor.

Just unbolt it & get some straps to sling it of to the side, out of the way.

Then drop the bottom part into the kframe, & loosely do the bolts up. Then bolt the top part to the engine with easy access.
May have to lower or drop the engine for the top bolts to line up, using a trolley jack.

If you have done research & have the correct tools, most jobs are not that difficult?

 

[Dunlop]

It is easy when you move the compressor.

Just unbolt it & get some straps to sling it of to the side, out of the way.

Then drop the bottom part into the kframe, & loosely do the bolts up. Then bolt the top part to the engine with easy access.
May have to lower or drop the engine for the top bolts to line up, using a trolley jack.

If you have done research & have the correct tools, most jobs are not that difficult?

Thanks - sorry this didn't arrive in my email box. Still can't understand how anyone can say the job is 'easy' when - as said - my really experienced mechanic said it was - to quote - 'A nightmare'. And I was told basically the same thing by another experienced mechanic. I just found out too that he advised me that he was fairly sure he'd put the solid rubber mounts in instead of the ones with the hydraulic piston (?) in as the solid ones are not only cheaper but last longer. I thought they were all the same. He's not a Holden mechanic as such, just very knowledgeable..

 

[Lex]

advised me that he was fairly sure he'd put the solid rubber mounts in instead of the ones with the hydraulic

Your not going to like the solid rubber ones.
The reason they put the hydraulic mounts in, is to absorb the vibrations from the motor. Stops the vibrations from going through the body.
Your about to find out what l mean?

Still can't understand how anyone can say the job is 'easy'

Its about knowing the right way of doing things & having the right tools.

Good luck with the car.

 

[Dunlop]

Your not going to like the solid rubber ones.
The reason they put the hydraulic mounts in, is to absorb the vibrations from the motor. Stops the vibrations from going through the body.
Your about to find out what l mean?

Its about knowing the right way of doing things & having the right tools.

Good luck with the car.

Thanks for the details and advice - he did say the ones with the pistons in them absorbed more vibration but to be honest I haven't noticed any difference at all so far..

 

[lout]

took me 2.5 hours
first time doing ecotec

ecotech engine mounts

after reading a few posts about changing engine mounts i was quite apprehensive doing this job i am used to old school v8's, pre 1980 took 2.5 hours total had to bend 15mm combination spanner to fit passenger mounts to engine bracket under ac compressor took 0.5 hours removed engine cover...

forums.justcommodores.com.au

 

[Hole Denn]

Thanks - sorry this didn't arrive in my email box. Still can't understand how anyone can say the job is 'easy' when - as said - my really experienced mechanic said it was - to quote - 'A nightmare'. And I was told basically the same thing by another experienced mechanic. I just found out too that he advised me that he was fairly sure he'd put the solid rubber mounts in instead of the ones with the hydraulic piston (?) in as the solid ones are not only cheaper but last longer. I thought they were all the same. He's not a Holden mechanic as such, just very knowledgeable..

Solid ones are f*cked, the softer hydraulic one are filled with fluid not a "piston" and fitting e/mounts is not really hard just a lil pain, there is also a small rachet extension spanner that I have in toolbox that is for bolts on mount to kframe.

Give the solid mounts a bit of time to absorb some torque from engine especially one side when you accelerate and you will eventually regret using cheap solid sh*t, its just a matter of time.

Also your mechanic sounds like a back yarder and not qualified