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How to RESET VYII Computer (NOT SERVICE REMINDER or ANYTHING to do with mode button)

Puggle

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Does anyone know how to reset the computer on a VY II SS (assume same for all VY variants). And I am NOT talking about any mode/set combination. Yes I have searched the site, the forums, and then the VY forum. I want to reset the computer now after doing exhaust mods and allow it to relearn the system setup.

The best I can find is:
1. Perform your modification
2. Run the car at operating temperature for about 5 mins.
3. Turn car off and remove computer (BCM) fuse. (located in the fuse panel in front of the suspension tower on the drivers side)
4. Leave fuse out for about 5 mins, then replace fuse.
5. Close bonnet and start car without touching the accelerator pedal & run for 5 mins. (so computer can recalibrate to your modification)
6. Turn car off, then on again without touching the accelerator pedal.

However this was for a VT and VS, and am nervous to go ahead without asking you knowledgeable fellow Holden drivers for advice.

I have definitely noticed the timing or something is off, since exhaust mods the gen3 wobbles at idle, like its timing is off. Also I have noticed that running on 91octane (as a test and only one tank) it wobbled a lot less. It usually runs on 98.

Any help appreciated on any of the above issues. :thumbsup:
 

Boonz

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disconnect the battery for a minute
it teaches itself anyway so you shouldnt really ahve to
 

Puggle

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yeah looking for some more in depth knowledge, someone familiar with the 'reset by removing fuse' technique; and the way the car learns and re learns different setups (fuel/air ratio etc). BMC fuse doesn't exist on the VY, I have only found ECC fuse.

I will wait for other comments... :)
 

Doctor Bob

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resetting the Body Control Module will do nothing for you.
resetting the Engine Control Module will be no advantage unless there has been a problem beforehand.
removing the fuse will reset certain segments of the adaptive learn but not all of it.
The adaptive learn will "adjust" while driving normally
basically theres no need to reset anything.

Rob
 

Puggle

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Rob, thankyou! Great to have a holden techie shed some light! :thumbsup:

Interesting though, after removing fuses and resetting everything (disconnecting battery) the wobble is definitely less than before. Happy to live with the remaining wobble.

Hope the VE never ever wobbles.

Out of interest, is it true Rob that the commies have in built "hoon protenction" that detunes the car when driven aggressively to protect part and component life?
 

Aggro_VE

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haha "hoon protection" havent heard that one before..You thinking of Torque abuse management? my ute had it! it was a manual, was told manuals dont have it the autos do..after a few runs down the qtr pre tune it ran like a pig, the amount of timing it took out made it run like a 4cyl, I was NOT HAPPY! but after tune, me VERY HAPPY!
 

Darren

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Sorry for dragging this thread up but it's exactly what I'm after :)

Here's the short story, I took my car back to Holden's a few weeks back for a couple of issue's one of which was transmission very rough from 1st > 2nd, anyway I found last weekend my car wouldn't start not even hazard lights would work, under the bonnet the negative was dangling there on the terminal not making contact at all.

Anyway since putting it back to how Holden should have left it the transmission has been doing exactly the same thing as before I took it back so I'm only guessing they reset the computer or something similar before giving it back to me.

Your saying Rob just drive it normally and it will simply adapt?
 

Doctor Bob

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yes the adaptive learn is constantly updating
what do you mean by rough from 1 to 2nd?

Rob
 

Darren

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When I say rough, meaning if I take off nice and casually as I do during it warming up ie less than < 2000rpm it will hang into 1st and then thump straight into 2nd, all other gear changes are almost perfect .

The only way it seems smooth is if I go to around 3000+rpm

I guess the best way to describe it is someone changing gear and just dumping the clutch.

The rough change happens when it's cold or warm and only since reseating the negative.
 
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