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How To - VT Brake Upgrade

Discussion in 'Holden Commodore How-To's' started by vsiicalais, Jun 25, 2008.

  1. peckzz

    peckzz New Member

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    ok just done a conversion on the front, i put vz ss brakes on my vr, didnt need shims or anything though

    changed the whole front hub, as well as arms the go into the k-frame, just bolted up to my shocks the same, not a problem, just gotta do the master cylinder as well as booster by the sounds of things
     
  2. turmoil117

    turmoil117 Donating Member

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    So will vn brakes fit on a vt? I'm only asking becouse I want to take the brakes off a vt in my yard but I still wanna be able to move it around... Or do you think forking out for a new set will be easier?
     
  3. BIG DYL

    BIG DYL BIG DYL

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    i just cut the guard with a angle grinder
     
  4. sik_dose

    sik_dose Hybrids. Cars for fools.

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    Can this conversion be done to a VLt? if so are there any aditional parts required?
     
  5. drewdc90

    drewdc90 New Member

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    Having just completed the conversion, the write up was very helpful. I also replaced the wheel bearings which were ABS as well as the tie rod end and ball joint. I purchased the rotors for a VT and also had to get the shim to fit the VT rotor. The shim seemed to be tapered as it fitted better one way than the other. I used the original hoses from my VS SS which are now longer to the caliper than the original. I modded the caliper by cutting away the small lug near the hose connection and then cut away the retaining lug on the hose so that the hose could fit from any direction. I also put the calipers the other way around so that the right side was on the left and vise versa. This way the bleed nipple was on the bottom of the caliper.
    To bleed the brakes I undid the bottom bolt holding the caliper and flipped it up holding it with some string so the bleed nipple was higher than the rest of the caliper and placed some wood in between the piston to take the place of the pads and then proceeded to bleed the brakes. Once the air was expelled I put the calipers back in place and had a great pedal feel. The hose stays in its original bracket and is just slightly longer to the caliper due to the hose position being more in the centre. No need to purchase VT hoses. I am planning on braided hoses but can purchase the VR VS hoses.
    To the dicks that S#%t can others for doing write ups get a life. If you have something to add do so in a manner that does not make you sound like a smart arse. At least they are trying to help out others. If I hadn't read this write up I might not have done this upgrade. Thanks to the author.
     
  6. blueV8vl

    blueV8vl New Member

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    thats a good write up drewdc90 ive done the same thing with my vl lines and had trouble bleeding them. and i think u have answered my bleeding issue. so ill give it a go.
     
  7. sxi ss

    sxi ss Member

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    help my vr ss has vt front rotors calipers,booster and master cylinder but my pedal is still really bad, any sugestions
     
  8. markovr

    markovr Well-Known Member

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    Id say you need to bleed it properly...if you do it at the master cylinder it might save you a lot of fluid/swearing
    Heres how I do it.
    Trial fit the brake lines after you fit the booster/mastercylinder ...front lines go to rear and rear to front on pre vs cars...vs's go to the same place...the vs and vt master cylinders even look the same but the vt one have bigger internals ...the flarenuts on the pipe ends are different sizes front to back so you cant make a mistake ... if you need to bend do it gently with hands and dont just grab and push ...make bend over a gentle arc and work back and forwards over a length until it fits up ..push up flarenuts to cylinder and do up with fingers..move pipe a little up/ down or side to side until the angle is perfect to do the nuts up with your fingers ...dont use tools to do this initally as you can easily cross thread them. After you have the lines trial fitted leave them fitted but only finger tight as the cylinder will now need bleeding to get all the air out. Fill up resevoir with fresh fluid and loosely fit up cap on reservoir ...it will bubble a bit as the fluid fills up the air space inside the cylinder ..leave it for a few minutes until it stops bubbling.
    It bleeds up easy but you first have to prime the cylinder from the outlets at the cylinder ...do up the bottom front wheel pipe tight(if you dont have abs...some abs use a plug in this position) you dont need to touch this pipe again as all the priming /bleeding will be done from the top front wheel pipe outlet immediately above it ...Ok then take out the top line completely and put your finger loosely over cylinder outlet then with get a mate/girlfriend etc to push pedal gently to floor and hold it down ...you should feel air coming out as they do it and , the air inside the cylinder will be pushed out and then as you hold your finger tightly over outlet when he/she lets the pedal come back it will suck fresh fluid from the reservoir and you should see the level drop slightly ...next gentle push on pedal will probably squirt fluid and a few bubbles out so keep your finger and a rag over end so it doesnt go everywhere..it might take a couple of goes but basically you need it to be pumping fluid out ...fit up solid brake line and nip it up with a flare nut spanner at the cylinder end you just primed...repeat for rear outlet and your all primed up ...then just undo the top front pipe again at the cylinder until the seal is broken ...dont touch the pedal ... fluid will run out in a stream and then do up again ..do the same for the rear pipe and most air space will be filled up with fluid ...any air will rise and sit at the top........at next pedal application you should have some sort of a pedal...bit long but enough to start bleeding. Get mate etc to apply pedal until the pedal stops and hold it there...undo top front flarenut just a little at cylinder again and the small amount of air will come out with the fluid and you will hear a sort of popping noise and see it as the air is expelled...the pedal will drop as you do this and when it hits floor keep it down and then nip up flarenut...repeat procedure until no air can be heard usually 2 to 3 times. Do the same for the rear wheels line. During procedure keep the fluid level up and try to minimise the fluid spilt on under bonnet stuff and hose everything off immediately when youre finished....maybe even run a hose over where the fluid will be spilt or strategically place wet rags where it is likely to run befrore starting procedure.
     
    Last edited: Sep 27, 2011
  9. Shaz78

    Shaz78 New Member

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    Hi I'm doing a vt brake upgrade to my vs but I have come to a problem I need a adaptor plate to go from a vt booster onto a vs does anyone know we're I can get 1 from
     
  10. markovr

    markovr Well-Known Member

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    I have them to sell to you but you will have to weld up and redrill the pushrod pedal hole on the vt booster
     
  11. waynethomson

    waynethomson Member

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    so true. why anyone wants to put shite on others for having a go is out there. most of us are amatures simply having a go and learning something.
     
  12. zeropalooba

    zeropalooba New Member

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    Just did mine and have some comments that might be useful to someone.
    1) I took Markovr's suggestion and fit a Falcon (AU) brake fluid reservoir on a VT master cylinder and bolted the unit to my VS booster. It was a straightforward swap with no issues apart from having to file down the little mushroom headed screw that comes out of the VS booster.
    2) I can confirm that VT backing plates are a straight swap for the VS backing plates.
    3) It seems that VT series I wheel hubs have the same ABS connection as the VS so should be able to be swapped. This would avoid having to use the shim rings to make the VT discs locate properly. If I ever need to change my hubs, I'll go VT series I.
    4) I saw in one of the posts that the VT steering knuckle and VT lower control arm can be swapped in for the VS units. I didn't want to go this way because I am worried about the Ackerman being wrong for the narrower VS.
     

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