Hi there. I have a vs auto ecotec. when i floor it, its pretty quick up to about 3,500 rpm. then it just sorta slowly makes its wat to 5,000 reving its guts out till it gets to second gear. then when it gets to seconds gear i am thrown to the back of my seat again. isnt it supposed to be the other way around? like when it goes to second the acceleration should slow a bit till you get high revs again? i have a feeling my trans may be slipping at high revs, is this common? this is only a recent problem so i know it isnt supposed to be this way. i have not much idea what it could be. someone help please!:bow:
It could be the catalytic converter blocking up -- this slowly throttles the exhaust till the engine will only idle but is first noticed at high revs on full throttle. The Ecotec has most of its power in the high revs.
I dont really know much about the ecotec, but I know the buick pulls hardest up till about 3500, then shifts at about 5000 (in PWR mode). I think the ecotec would be more or less the same, these engines are made for torque down low - so dont be surprised if it seems to pull in the lower revs more than anywhere else. Otherwise, I would start going through intake and exhaust parts checking for blockages/restrictions, as well as replacing your fuel filters.
Ecotec has a different power band to the buick. I know my ecotec pulls its 'hardest' from around 3500-5500...
ive checked the cat, looks fine, perfect honeycomb. got a sports exhaust installed about 3 months ago, cai, new air filter, fuel filter, injectors. the engine revs keep goin up at the same rate but the car doesnt if you get me. hence y i think the trans may be slipping.
It dosnt sound like exactly your problem, but i had issues a while back losing high rpm power, my fuel pump was rooted and loosing pressure. So id lose it at high rpm in first but then id go for second and it'd all be good cause the revs dropped.
I borrowed an electric gauge off a mate at work, who had one. Rigged the sender unit up into the feul line and wired the gauge temporarily in the cabin. Took it for a quick spin and seen the pressure drop at high rpm. Also does it show any error codes.
Depends where you go but you can buy a new pump for around the $100 mark, i got mine for about $90 from the local auto shop, just make sure it comes with the cork tank gasket. It'l take you less than 2 hours to change it and you can do it with the tank in still, just drive till its nearly empty before you do it. My point being, if you have to buy a gauge cause you cant borrow one, it might be just cheaper to change out the pump to eliminate that possibility.
If the engine revs continue to increase, faster than road speed, it's not going to be a blocked cat. or a fuel pump problem. The blocked cat will feel like the throttle being closed (that's more or less what is happening to the exhaust flow) and the fuel pump will feel like someone has just shut off the engine and it will usually pick up and drop off in an inconsistent way with the engine revs still following the road speed. It does sound more like a trans. problem. If the trans. is slipping, usually one element fails before the rest and it won't do the same thing in each gear. Which gears it slips in and a chart of which elements (clutches and bands) are applied will determine what is at fault. If the oil isn't obviously burnt (and it will be very quickly if it was slipping as badly as described) and it does the same thing in each gear, I would say it's a problem with the torque convertor, perhaps the stator clutch is locked.
When my feul pump went, the car just simply wouldnt go past 4500 rpm. It didnt cut out out at all, just simply taperred of from about 4000 rpm till it hit 4500.
i just went out and checked transmission oil, it was recently serviced and after taking it out for a bit of a drive, came back and looked at dipstick, it is quite over filled. could this be a problem, what happens if the transmission oil is overfilled?
