can anyone tell me whats the deal with the hydrolic clutch ? like is it any better than the stock clutches ? ta :flame:
well, hydraulic clutches come stock on some models too...i guess the advantages are that pedal effort can be reduced with hydraulic advantage and you dont have to worry about the cable getting old and breaking when you least expect it.....
Also In saying that, with a hydraulic clutch you also need to be aware you don't cook the fluid and you need to change it every 20 odd k's (if you cook the fluid, as all fluid, it gets water in it and won't engage the clutch enough and resulting in slipping when you don't want it to)....I change mine every 10 as I drive a little hard most days...it isn't expensive just a pain in the asss...
cook the fluid? you have to remember that it is brake fluid that we are using here and it is used to alot more punishment in braking systems than pushing a clutch fork...i think it is a bit of overkill changing your clutch fluid every 10 thousand, i guess you should do it every 12 months along with the rest of the braking system.....
Water also equals corrosion. The brake fluid used in both brakes and hydraulic clutches is hrdroscopic, which means that it readily dissolves water. Over time, the fluid will become contaminated with water, which will tend to congregate in lower regions, i.e. in the master cylinder below the output pipe and in the slave cylinders. The water does tow things. 1) Firstly, water boils at temperatures that are not uncommon in braking systems. When it boils, it becomes a gas, which is compressible where a liquid is effectively not. The eventual result is a spongy pedal and less effective brakes, or worse no brakes at all. Brake fluid can also boil, but at much higher temperatures. Thus the brake fluid chosen should match the potential temperatures. However, clutches do not get as hot so this is not a problem for them. 2) The second effect is that the presence of water promotes corrosion, particularly in the slave cylinders, but also in the master cylinder and the brake/clutch lines. As corrosion builds in the slave or master cylinder, the seals cease to function properly. The fluid can leak past the seals, and reduces the effectiveness of the clutch. In the extreme, the seal can suddenly let go completely, which = no cltuch. I remember pulling up at a stop sign many years ago, and with the clutch still in, the car started to drive away. Fluid had leaked past the seal, and let the clutch back out. This case was caused by a broken master cylinder return spring, but corrosion can eventually give the same outcome. If you get corrosion in the bores of the master/slave cylinders, you have a more expensive repair job. I recommend replacing brake and clutch fluid at least every two years, as per the GMH recommendations. Reduces the risk of problems, and saves expensive shocks later on.
