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illegal number plate issue (Vic)

vc commodore

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Just because a product is sold in an auto shop doesn’t make it legal to use on a road registered vehicle.

In this case, it seems that your neighbours infraction is obscuring the number plate, which inhibits the government from bolstering their automated fine revenue :oops: You don’t really want to be messing with the governments revenue; just ask Al Capone how that can turn out :p

LED globes are an option for high beams, though they may still be illegal for road use depending on their light output, day of the week, or policeman’s mood. But as it’s not a revenue impacting alteration it is more likely to go under the radar. Such globes are definitely illegal in your low beam lamp unless self levelling and washer features are included in the headlamp assembly.

The other option is moving the light bar up or down so it is within the road rules :rolleyes:

What I find unfair is that shops continue to sell products that are illegal to use on road registered vehicles in the first instance. Often there are no warnings on the packaging that specify “not for road use” or if there is it’s in very fine print in some obscure place. Sometimes such statements are in bold on the front of the package but not often and usually people simply ignore these statements anyway. Oddly, some auto stores will even install these illegal items (HID globes in your low beams) to your road registered vehicle o_O Way to create a liability for the business o_O

However, if you want a clear understanding of the road rules re lighting, best to ring Vic Roads and talk to their engineering department. Most of what is done related to lighting has a basis in reason and is usually not tyrannical or unfair; it’s done so we can all see at night rather than be blinded by some guy with a poorly engineered cheap and illegal ‘light upgrade’ ;)

The way I read it, the bracket isn't illegal.....The fitament of the lightbar is, as the lightbar is what is obsecuring the number plate.....So yes, moving either the lightbar or number plate is the best option.

As for autoparts shops selling things that maybe illegal to fit to cars....I see a few shops, that have a sign up, stating that the fitament of some parts may render your car unroadworthy....So they are in effect covering their asses from this side of things....I have also had sales people saying fitting certain things may render your car unroadworthy....But this wouldn't suffice should you be pinged for it and want to take it further.

I have also been lead to believe, fitting of a single extra light can render your car unroadworthy, in some states....You actually need 2 extra lights fitted.....Unfortunately, I can't find the relevant information to back it up

so for the best peace of mind, it is always best to research into the fitament of an item to your vehicle, before outlaying the cash
 

vc commodore

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VC I assume you have separate circuits with upgraded wiring and relays for your light bar and driving lights, as have I. It's when you load additional wattage to the lightweight factory headlight wiring that you strike problems. The wire gauge is too thin to carry the extra resistance of upgraded globes and overheats. Connectors melt, loose connections result then shorts/sparks/smoke/fire.


No mate....The trigger wire for spot relay runs straight from the factory high beam wire....The rest of the relay/s/lighting loom/s are seperate from the factory loom. The trigger wire is soldered in place, with shrink wrap over it

My main power for the relays run from a seperate fuse box, which gets its power source from the mains power at the starter.....
 

lmoengnr

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I have also been lead to believe, fitting of a single extra light can render your car unroadworthy, in some states....You actually need 2 extra lights fitted.....Unfortunately, I can't find the relevant information to back it up

ADR's are the best place to research.
 

Fu Manchu

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Hmmm
 

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Calaber

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No mate....The trigger wire for spot relay runs straight from the factory high beam wire....The rest of the relay/s/lighting loom/s are seperate from the factory loom. The trigger wire is soldered in place, with shrink wrap over it

My main power for the relays run from a seperate fuse box, which gets its power source from the mains power at the starter.....
The feed from the factory hi beam is fine, it's the most common and convenient actuation feed. That's what I use. Its the separate wiring loom that takes the load. The factory wiring isn't carrying the demand of the additional lights.
 

Calaber

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Hehehehe, remember there are 2 sets of 'laws'. One for us, and a different set for them.
This is the sort of issue that varies between States. What's legal in NSW could be illegal in Victoria, and the police will always place their own individual interpretations of what their State laws mean.
 
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Trevor loves holden.

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VC I assume you have separate circuits with upgraded wiring and relays for your light bar and driving lights, as have I. It's when you load additional wattage to the lightweight factory headlight wiring that you strike problems. The wire gauge is too thin to carry the extra resistance of upgraded globes and overheats. Connectors melt, loose connections result then shorts/sparks/smoke/fire.
Thankyou someone understands, I too have a relay with the switch and a set of 100w spotlights, the relay then becomes your power source and the high beam becomes your active switch which wont hurt your original wiring harness. Anyway I was talking about your main lights not spotlights or led bars.
 
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