Improving the handling on a ute

[_R_J_K_]

Start with basics, SuperPro full rebush kit is a couple of hundred if you have the ability to do the pressed (mainly control/trailing arm) bushes, KYB shocks are reasonably good and not that expensive (I'd easily go them over Pedders or Monroe) and slightly firmer, you will almost certainly need new strut top bearings (the old ones usually just fall apart when they're taken out), next time you need to replace tyres go to 17s, most of the time the good 17s in common sizes are the same cost or cheaper than 16s (the 225/50s you're running at the moment aren't really that much smaller compared to stock - remember the profile is a percentage of the width). That's all basic replaceable stuff, so you can do it before deciding if you want new springs (although to be honest they all seem to provide a one size fits all product). Ebay or one of the online stores having a 20% sale usually nets a pretty good saving on parts.

You could also start looking at other parts like a rear swaybar or Whiteline used to make a kit (KLC18) that attaches the front swaybar links to the control arm instead of the shock absorber (which looks like it would be much more effective TBH), but that's kind of extra cost. Other thing you could look at doing is increasing the castor slightly if you replace the z-bar bushes.

I won't say Pedders is bad as it seems to be on a franchise by franchise basis, but to me the safety check seems to just be a way to sell you parts.

 

[shane_3800]

Start with basics, SuperPro full rebush kit is a couple of hundred if you have the ability to do the pressed (mainly control/trailing arm) bushes, KYB shocks are reasonably good and not that expensive (I'd easily go them over Pedders or Monroe) and slightly firmer, you will almost certainly need new strut top bearings (the old ones usually just fall apart when they're taken out), next time you need to replace tyres go to 17s, most of the time the good 17s in common sizes are the same cost or cheaper than 16s (the 225/50s you're running at the moment aren't really that much smaller compared to stock - remember the profile is a percentage of the width). That's all basic replaceable stuff, so you can do it before deciding if you want new springs (although to be honest they all seem to provide a one size fits all product). Ebay or one of the online stores having a 20% sale usually nets a pretty good saving on parts.

You could also start looking at other parts like a rear swaybar or Whiteline used to make a kit the attaches the front swaybar links to the control arm instead of the shock absorber (which looks like it would be much more effective TBH), but that's kind of extra cost. Other thing you could look at doing is increasing the castor slightly if you replace the z-bar bushes.

I won't say Pedders is bad as it seems to be on a franchise by franchise basis, but to me the safety check seems to just be a way to sell you parts.

My VR on the farm has the links to control arm mod after I stuffed around with the ball to ball upgrade. I have VZ old style pedders coilovers in the front with koni inserts but found the links to lower arm better when you can adjust the sway bar.
In a ute you would set the front bar to max and rear to min as the front bar is already weaker with the link mod.

 

[losh1971]

The front end has all new bushes. The struts have been overhauled. They only used Monroe though. Rear shocks look old but I'd have trouble telling how effective they are. They are yellow Monroes.
Probably the go to get another safety inspection and see what else comes up as worn. I replaced the strut tops and bearings, along with the left TRE as well as CA's. These were identified as needing replacement three years ago. They never mentioned rear shocks.
Shane I'm in Tas. RJK I thought having 16s would make it a reasonable amount lower than the stock 205/65 15s. The OD is slightly less than a stockie as well. I probably won't go to 17s i drive on some shocking roads and think any less side wall will make my ride worse.

 

[keith reed]

The front end has all new bushes. The struts have been overhauled. They only used Monroe though. Rear shocks look old but I'd have trouble telling how effective they are. They are yellow Monroes.
Probably the go to get another safety inspection and see what else comes up as worn. I replaced the strut tops and bearings, along with the left TRE as well as CA's. These were identified as needing replacement three years ago. They never mentioned rear shocks.
Shane I'm in Tas. RJK I thought having 16s would make it a reasonable amount lower than the stock 205/65 15s. The OD is slightly less than a stockie as well. I probably won't go to 17s i drive on some shocking roads and think any less side wall will make my ride worse.

Hi Losh , what tyre pressure do you run?

 

[losh1971]

34 cold, anything more and the corrogations and rough roads are damn right awful.

 

[keith reed]

34 cold, anything more and the corrogations and rough roads are damn right awful.

The only reason I run 40 psi on my ute is because I can't be bothered going to the servo to pump my tyres up and use my foot pedal pump to pump my tyres up. I run 45 on my ve and the same on my vh. I don't normally drive on undulating roads but have not had a problem when I have. I have been doing this for over 40 years. Your original post was on how to make your ute handle better. Remember that to improve handling like increasing power can though not necessarily be a compromise. Have you ever tried inflating your tyres? If not give it a go. My decision to run my tyres at these pressures was not through any brilliance of mine but by going on an advanced driving course. That is what they recommended.

 

[losh1971]

I will bump up the pressures and see how it goes on the gravel. I will start with 36 and see how it fairs. I have what looks to be a pretty decent set of Pedder red shocks sitting around. I was considering fitting them but am in two minds. Some reports say they will be too harsh and others say the opposite. I'd have to remove the tub liner to fit them so haven't wanted to slip them on to see how they fair incase i have to pull them back out two weeks later.

 

[_R_J_K_]

RJK I thought having 16s would make it a reasonable amount lower than the stock 205/65 15s. The OD is slightly less than a stockie as well.

Eh, not really. You make a tiny bit lower but the sidewall is still fairly big for a narrow Commodore wheel and it won't really improve handling that much because the position and centre of gravity of the chassis doesn't change in relation to the wheels. You could go slightly narrower tyres or wider wheels if you wanted to keep using that kind of size.

I don't think there's really a good compromise for you if you're dailying corrugated roads. Kinda why 4WDs aren't primarily designed to handle.

 

[vs-lover]

Just a word on Tyre sizes. If you are running 16's it's rather interesting as the SS stipulates 225/50/16 while the Berlina will stipulate 215,55,16 and the Calais stipulates 215/60/16. That's all VS sizes BTW. It's really interesting that the diameter on the Calais is the largest while the SS uses the smallest diameter. All are on 16 inch high wheels. The cheapest of all those sizes is in fact the SS as it sports the most common sizing thus the price is far the cheapest due to volume sold thru tyre outlets.

 

[losh1971]

I don't think there's really a good compromise for you if you're dailying corrugated roads. Kinda why 4WDs aren't primarily designed to handle.

yeah I am thinking a well functioning stockish set up might be the go first. I need to find a place that will give me honest info on what to replace or upgrade with the roads i drive on a regular basis in mind as well. I personally don't think lowering the ute is is my best interest. I'd be keen to keep a fairly soft spring but maybe look at options to reduce the sway if possible.