Installing HUD into non HUD vehicle.

[NJD-1992]

Righto, digging this thread up as in the process of doing this mod myself, as I really want the HUD on my MY16 SV6.
This being my first "wiring" mod, its been a fun time learning about how to wire this up and reading the wiring/plug diagrams etc have learnt a lot so far

One thing that has me slightly nervous is having to cut into the cars loom to get power for the HUD, which from the guide, Cam mentions he got it by tapping into the instrument cluster plugs power (Red/Blue wire) cable. That leaves the other splice being the HUD control to instrument backlight control switch (Yellow wire)

The factory manual shows that power for the HUD is drawn from the F13 Power circuit.

vywgn mentioned that he got the power for the HUD by getting additional terminals and adding it to the back of the dash fuse box. I like this idea because as vywgn mentions, that avoids having to cut the loom.

So by the fuse diagram, here we have the F13 fuse

Then I can across these

Is there any reason im missing that would mean one of these fuse adaptors wouldn't work? As long as the fuse is correct (and the adaptor is rated for 30a so fine given the circuit is 15A) could this be a way of gaining the power supply to the HUD, without having to re-wire the fuse box or splice into the main harness. If I can then figure how to join the HUD control to brightness switch as vywgn did without splicing, this could be a simple add on harness without the need to cut into your main loom.

Hopefully not a stupid question, and if im missing something please let me know! This has been a fun learning process and keen to see if im on the right path

 

[dassaur]

Righto, digging this thread up as in the process of doing this mod myself, as I really want the HUD on my MY16 SV6.
This being my first "wiring" mod, its been a fun time learning about how to wire this up and reading the wiring/plug diagrams etc have learnt a lot so far

One thing that has me slightly nervous is having to cut into the cars loom to get power for the HUD, which from the guide, Cam mentions he got it by tapping into the instrument cluster plugs power (Red/Blue wire) cable. That leaves the other splice being the HUD control to instrument backlight control switch (Yellow wire)

The factory manual shows that power for the HUD is drawn from the F13 Power circuit.

vywgn mentioned that he got the power for the HUD by getting additional terminals and adding it to the back of the dash fuse box. I like this idea because as vywgn mentions, that avoids having to cut the loom.

View attachment 256038

So by the fuse diagram, here we have the F13 fuse

View attachment 256039View attachment 256040

Then I can across these

View attachment 256041

Is there any reason im missing that would mean one of these fuse adaptors wouldn't work? As long as the fuse is correct (and the adaptor is rated for 30a so fine given the circuit is 15A) could this be a way of gaining the power supply to the HUD, without having to re-wire the fuse box or splice into the main harness. If I can then figure how to join the HUD control to brightness switch as vywgn did without splicing, this could be a simple add on harness without the need to cut into your main loom.

Hopefully not a stupid question, and if im missing something please let me know! This has been a fun learning process and keen to see if im on the right path

Yes it'll work. I have many of them in that exact fuse box. If the factory manual says it'll draw power from that fuse, then do it. Just be aware that there's a 'right way' to install them and a wrong way. The far pin of the fuse adapter (furthest away from the wiring tail) must go on the hot side of the fusebox - and in the case of the VF and that fuse, in the orientation that is most obvious (the tail needs to come out to the right).

 

[vywgn]

Unfortunately for the illumination loom you need to spice in, I can help with a loom pin for the fuse box and you will be able to use 1 of the empty slots as the power feed

 

[NJD-1992]

Yes it'll work. I have many of them in that exact fuse box. If the factory manual says it'll draw power from that fuse, then do it. Just be aware that there's a 'right way' to install them and a wrong way. The far pin of the fuse adapter (furthest away from the wiring tail) must go on the hot side of the fusebox - and in the case of the VF and that fuse, in the orientation that is most obvious (the tail needs to come out to the right).

Good news!

Can confirm we are getting the 12V from the F13 Power Circuit. Ill be using this then for power to the HUD itself.

Unfortunately for the illumination loom you need to spice in, I can help with a loom pin for the fuse box and you will be able to use 1 of the empty slots as the power feed

Ahh darn, so you did have to tap from the control switch to the illumination as per cams guide?

But at least using the above terminal adaptor and splicing the switch, it makes the 2 main add in connections accessible without having to disassemble parts of the dash unlike going to the instrument cluster plug. Appreciate your kind offer! I'll go with the adaptor for the moment but should that not work, I'll certainly reach out for the loom pin.

 

[Skylarking]

Good news!

View attachment 256083

Can confirm we are getting the 12V from the F13 Power Circuit. Ill be using this then for power to the HUD itself.



Ahh darn, so you did have to tap from the control switch to the illumination as per cams guide?

But at least using the above terminal adaptor and splicing the switch, it makes the 2 main add in connections accessible without having to disassemble parts of the dash unlike going to the instrument cluster plug. Appreciate your kind offer! I'll go with the adaptor for the moment but should that not work, I'll certainly reach out for the loom pin.

Try removing the fuse to check that the lead now has no voltage which will confirm you have it around the correct way and the fuse will do it’s job…

With the jumper fuse thingies, we can all have brain farts years down the track and do idiot things when checking other issues which then cause more issues when a HUD fault burns our wiring because we put the fuse thingie around the wrong way…

Me, I’d have modded the fuse box so that it works as the factory HUD wiring does because if done correctly it is user idiot proof.

 

[stooge]

Good news!

View attachment 256083

Can confirm we are getting the 12V from the F13 Power Circuit. Ill be using this then for power to the HUD itself.



Ahh darn, so you did have to tap from the control switch to the illumination as per cams guide?

But at least using the above terminal adaptor and splicing the switch, it makes the 2 main add in connections accessible without having to disassemble parts of the dash unlike going to the instrument cluster plug. Appreciate your kind offer! I'll go with the adaptor for the moment but should that not work, I'll certainly reach out for the loom pin.

check if the F13 is ign or batt because if it is batt it will always have power and might cause drain.

the fuse taps normally have the input line on the side opposite from the side the wire comes out but you can easily check that with the multimeter.

to find the rail side of the fuse box probe the fuse hole to find which side is live and you should then be able to work out which way to put the tap in.

the top fuse is normally the one for the line you are tapping and the bottom fuse is normally the original fuse/line you tapped into.

 

[NJD-1992]

Try removing the fuse to check that the lead now has no voltage which will confirm you have it around the correct way and the fuse will do it’s job…

With the jumper fuse thingies, we can all have brain farts years down the track and do idiot things when checking other issues which then cause more issues when a HUD fault burns our wiring because we put the fuse thingie around the wrong way…

Me, I’d have modded the fuse box so that it works as the factory HUD wiring does because if done correctly it is user idiot proof.

Can certainly confirm the adaptor is orientated correctly, as the "hot" pin is the one without the blue mark, and checked everything with fuses removed and added etc. I may still consider that, but I do like the adaptor being the method of least modification to the system.

check if the F13 is ign or batt because if it is batt it will always have power and might cause drain.

Doing some digging on this, it is connected to the battery as opposed to ignition as with the car off there is still power, but I dont think its going to cause any additional drain (Happy to be corrected of course!)

By the above schematic, the F13 power circuit supplies both the Heads up display, as well as the Info Display Module. Checking those connectors it I think is referring to some aspect of Mylink. But checking around it seems that many of the areas here have battery power (F14 and F12). Granted they have different power circuits (F13 is using the 3240 circuit, whilst F14/F12 are 3340). But in saying that, if one is to tap into power wire on the instrument cluster plug as per Cam's guide, you are still connecting into the 3240 circuit (Shown in the cluster plug end schematics)

So from my understanding, I dont think the adaptor is going to cause any additional drain? Given its connected to the circuit specifically for the HUD, which seems to remain powered as other systems are on the same circuit