I've brought a full new car stereo, have absolutely NO idea on where to start. i've got a fair bit of information of the net. trying to get as much help tips and information as i can before i start pulling my car apart and hope i dont wreck it! 1. How to remove the door/floor trim, where the carpet meets? 2. Back shelf, do i need something for 6"9 speakers to sit into once i've cut a hole there? 3. How do i feed the amp cord through the front fire wall of the car, do i need to remove any of the dash? 4. How do i get the wires through the doors for 6" im putting in each front door? (can i use the exsisting wires that are already there for the stock speakers in it now?) anything will be good help !!
1. There's a cover thats held with clips over some screws so a flathead for the clips and i think its just normal phillips head screws. 2. Is it a VY? If so, then the speakers are in the front and rear doors so no need to cut up the parcel shelf. 3. Back left of the engine bay there's a rubber cover that you can poke a wire through, easiest way would be with a metal coat hanger or something similar. This hole is accesseable from the inside just above the carpet so you dont need to take anythin off for that. 4. Yeah you can use the existing wires if you want or you can poke new wires through the sleeve this is tricky though Hope this helps if you need anythin else feel free to pm me
I am also going to be following this thread as I plan on doing similar audio mods soon too. You can use existing speaker wire, however, it is recommended you use larger wire. In audio of any kind, often bigger is better. There is a walk through of how to remove door trims here. Rear shelf for 6x9's, I'm sorry but don't listen to NonStick Squid on this one unless you want to do some serious modding of the rear door speaker housing. All doors have a 6" speaker but can be modded to fit 6.5's, however, a 6x9 would be a very interesting install. Getting the power wire through the firewall might be a bit of a pain depending on its size. I had 4 gauge in my lancer and that was way too fat to sneak through the factory holes. So I drilled into the wheel arch, after removing all the mud guards in the arch, then drilled another hole into the passenger footwell up high so you couldn't see it. Then ran the cable under the carpet from there so you couldn't see it at all. There's a website that shows a guide to how big you need your power wire to be. Do a search, should find it. I think 8 gauge should be sufficient though. Also, have a look here. This should help.
OK here i go.. This is all in my ride thread so feel free to skim through that 1.) in foot bay on the out side of foot wells, remove the panel on each side, phillips head 2.)the side trims use a small flat heat to remove those little plates on the trim CAREFULLY..then you need a star head screw driver to remove the screws underneath 3.) take out rear seats ( bum bit first then 12mm socket on the lower ouside on the 2 out side rears).. 4.) lay down middle seat and remove the trim near the catch on parcel shelf 5.) remove baby capsule point under flap near middle tail light 6.) remove 2 plastic clips where the other baby mounts points would go 7.) pop off the clips allong the rear where the back support from rear seats was 8.) pull out the parcel shelf 9.) you will now see where the 6x9's car go where the metal plates are.. hammer them out from the boot hitting the plates from underneath. 10.) grab some callais rear speaker grills and fit them into the parcel shelf 11.) Run Amp cable down drivers side, and signal wire, speaker wire down passenger side.. and weave to destination you desire.. SO POWER ONE SIDE AUDIO OTHER SIDE 12.) run the cable from battery, run under fuse cable tray, and go through the same gromet in fire wall it does..and the run it down the side of car ( dont stuff this up.. will take some time, so be patient) How did i do?
Buy a vy headnuit to bare wire adapter from auto store.. that that you can solder it up nice and neat out of the car, then just plug in the loom into headunit, then into car socket and done
wow this is scary, thanks so much for all the help. really dont think this is a job for a girl with no idea !! still going to attempt it though! keep it all coming please ! more the better
i've got quotes etc from so many different places, the cheapest quote i got was $500. one was even over a thousand. its an absolute joke. I have a little idea, i did/helped do one in a VR while ago. Most i can do is try, most of this makes alot of sense. may take a while but its do able i recon !
@duk13y i didnt read the OP properly yeah 6x9s in the doors would certainly be interesting... cheers for pointing that out
I thought the same when I was looking around and was gonna do it myself coz i really didn't want to spend more money ontop my my system. But it's not an easy job. Ontop of buying all the wire and #### the actual labour will take a long time. I dont see the point of risking your system to save some cash. I got mine done for 590 and the company came to my house and did it all. that included everything like wiring etc. was very handy in my case If i was you i'd strongly suggest getting a pro to install it
jobs already been started, so far so good. we've got three days to see if we can do it, otherwise just gonna take it to a place and let them finish it off !
just take your time, If ya get stuck or not sure then come back and we'll help ya.. The whole thing has been pretty much explained for ya, so should be easy for ya to do!
How did it end up going? Get it done? Once you get into it it all sorta makes sence i reckon. I was in the same shoes as you once, you just gotta get in there and do it, then the next 50 times you have to do it, its easy. just remember to make sure you ground everything properly to BARE METAL sand it down if need be, get the paint off, and fuse the power wire, if you remember that you can barely mess it up