Intermittent Key Issues - Doors won't lock/unlock but car will start - VT Series 1

[rch-13z]

Hi All,

Been having an issue for the past 6-7 months with my VT Commodore Key.

In simple terms, when pressing the key there's no response from the car at all. It happens with both locking & unlocking the car - BUT if you put the key in the ignition it will start immediately. ALSO if you come back after a period of time it will normally lock/unlock fine.

Current attempts we've made to fix it:
- New key
- New Battery
- New wiring to alternator & starter
- Hooked up to tech-2. No codes found & tech-2 can lock & unlock the car fine.
...That's all I can think of so far

It went away for a bit but returned like a case of herpes....

Our next thought was to change the BCM?

Thoughts? Suggestions?

Thanks in advance.
Rich

 

[Nut Kracker]

Might be a case of a faulty or dirty remote receiver. Or as you said, the BCM.
It's located in the middle, between the demister vents, at the base of the wind screen.

 

[Happy]

May be just a bad connection between the ignition key blade and the key head.
Remove the 2 screws that hold the blade to the head.
Remove the blade & look inside the slot.
Around one of the screw holes is a brass? contact face.
Gently clean both the key blade and the key head contact face.
That may improve your key's radio range.
You could also see if signal strength is the problem by trying to unlock your door while holding the key directly
over the remote receiver which is on top of the dash in the middle.
Compare that with holding the key 3 meters away.
I assume you don't have a metallic dash mat over the remote receiver.

 

[lout]

when you say new key, i assume you mean remote fob
genuine holden or aftermarket remote
prgrammed from quality locksmith or mr minit or similar
programmed from code or off of old remote
the keyreader in the ignition barrel is a seperate system to the lock/unlock remote
i suspect a dodgy remote at this stage

 

[rch-13z]

May be just a bad connection between the ignition key blade and the key head.
Remove the 2 screws that hold the blade to the head.
Remove the blade & look inside the slot.
Around one of the screw holes is a brass? contact face.
Gently clean both the key blade and the key head contact face.
That may improve your key's radio range.
You could also see if signal strength is the problem by trying to unlock your door while holding the key directly
over the remote receiver which is on top of the dash in the middle.
Compare that with holding the key 3 meters away.
I assume you don't have a metallic dash mat over the remote receiver.

Key blade, screws & fob are all new as of November/December but it's worth a go. Will try pressing the button right on top of the reciever - Honestly didn't know it was there.

Also no dash mat - Appreciate the detailed response.

 

[rch-13z]

when you say new key, i assume you mean remote fob
genuine holden or aftermarket remote
prgrammed from quality locksmith or mr minit or similar
programmed from code or off of old remote
the keyreader in the ignition barrel is a seperate system to the lock/unlock remote
i suspect a dodgy remote at this stage

New key fob & key blade itself. Done through a proper locksmith but no idea how to tell if it's a genuine keyhead?

Programming was done by putting the key into the ignition & waiting a certain period of time - Problem was there prior to the new key, replaced key in an attempt to stop problem.

Thanks for your input, will work on it.

 

[lout]

unfortunately copying what may have been a corrupt remote does not guarantee your new remote
but assume it is okay for now
could be a door closed switch, does the interior light function correctly when set to door
or as mentioned the receiver in dash.
have car electricals been modified eg led interior light or similar
do all of the door actuators function correctly all the time
i think tech2 can actually measure signal strength of remote, not sure on this i may be imagining it

 

[rch-13z]

unfortunately copying what may have been a corrupt remote does not guarantee your new remote
but assume it is okay for now
could be a door closed switch, does the interior light function correctly when set to door
or as mentioned the receiver in dash.
have car electricals been modified eg led interior light or similar
do all of the door actuators function correctly all the time
i think tech2 can actually measure signal strength of remote, not sure on this i may be imagining it

Agree with the method of copying, I was abit concerned when he did it that way.
LED interior lighting - Yep, every globe prettty much - Lights function fine when set to door...

For $45 changing the dash reciever might be a good option in general.

Door actuators function fine.

 

[Nut Kracker]

Agree with the method of copying, I was abit concerned when he did it that way.
LED interior lighting - Yep, every globe prettty much - Lights function fine when set to door...

For $45 changing the dash reciever might be a good option in general.

Door actuators function fine.

I tried our locksmith 2 years ago, about getting a new fob for my VT,
as both my fobs stopped working and was a cheaper option than going original.
He copied the original fob onto a new one and told me to put it in the ignition for a couple of minutes.
Didn't work. He though it may be the BCM, the receiver, or a another problem.
Anyway ended up getting my money back.....

A few months later, I had to take the car to Holden for something or another and I said to them, while you've got the car,
could you also check why the remote isn't working (told them about the locksmith fob).
He said the battery's flat in your old one.
So got a new one from Holden, think about $110 back then and all good.
Still going strong.

 

[devilly]

check your boot lock the two screws can undo, and then the boot button will not fully depress.leaving and open circuit.check battery terminals for tightness and also check that the wirer's have not come loose in the connectors to the terminals.