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Is this normal for brakes?

Discussion in 'VR - VS Holden Commodore (1993 - 1997)' started by someguy360, Oct 2, 2012.

  1. someguy360

    someguy360 Well-Known Member

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    Hi Guys.

    I have been feeling a bit of a shudder from the front end of late, it gives a very similar bit mild shudder that you would get with warped rotors but this happens when rolling and gets worse with braking.

    So, with the process of elimination I checked all my front end bushes.....all good there......checked my tie rod ends and rack ends......all good there too.......then I thought warped rotors but they were only machined 2 months ago.

    Took the wheels off and tried spinning the front rotors, hmmmmmm strange issue.

    the caliper seems to be wobbling a bit which is causing the brakes to stick on and off..... (see video bellow, make sure your sound is up nice and loud)
    [video=youtube_share;4INySJen-is]http://youtu.be/4INySJen-is[/video]


    Any ideas?

    Hopefully I am not up for new calipers :/

    Thanks
     
  2. ephect

    ephect Donating Member

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    the calipers will have movement when not engaged, if you didnt have movement the pad would still be rubbing against the rotor, wearing out both pad and rotor and causing massive amounts of drag

    i think you have warped rotors!
     
  3. edals

    edals Well-Known Member

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    Yeah its fine mate, a little movement is fine as mentioned.
    It will be most likely the rotors. BUY NEW ROTORS never machine warped rotors. Machining them only makes them even more prone to warp, besides you cannot machine a warped rotor. new pads and rotors are about $120 and easy to fit your self.
     
  4. someguy360

    someguy360 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks guys

    Would this explain a shudder at high speeds if the rotors are grabbing (not while braking)

    I am not sure on the history of these rotors but I have had them since well before I got the car (3 years ago, and they have been machined 3 times in my time with it) so wouldn't surprise me if they were shagged
     
  5. 4keeps

    4keeps New Member

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    Check gearbox mount. Had a similar issue. I bought new pads and rotors but didn't solve it.
     
  6. someguy360

    someguy360 Well-Known Member

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    That was done only a couple of months ago
     
  7. hako

    hako Donating Member

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    Rotors normally should only be machined once unless it's just a small skim....yours have been done 3 times so will probably under minimum thickness and prone to warping.
     
  8. someguy360

    someguy360 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks guys, Will I be ok to just replace the Rotors.

    I have Bendix CT pads on the front at the moment that still have around 60% of their meat left, can I simply sand them to make sure they are flat again and re-use them or do I need to change them with the rotors?
     
  9. ephect

    ephect Donating Member

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    Should be fine to sand flat, I've done this in the past and have had no issues, but wait for a response from NAAF or gslrally.
     
  10. Jonah 101

    Jonah 101 Undefined

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    Whats even better than sanding is Lay them flat on the concrete and rub them back like that it only take a few seconds. They will be nice and flat then :) dont worry about the dust just brush it away, dont use the dust gun though, never use the dust gun on brakes. Dont want to breath that **** in lol
     
  11. Not_An_Abba_Fan

    Not_An_Abba_Fan Exhaust Guru

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    Apart from tasting bad, no real issues with brake dust anymore. Many years ago with the use of asbestos in friction material, the dust was carcinogenic, but it's fairly safe now. (As safe as dust can be I suppose)

    According to Bendix, rotors don't warp. Uneven material transfer is what causes a pulsating pedal or a vibration. As well as runout caused by incorrectly tightening wheel nuts. (I am of the opinion that option B is the answer). From experience, rotor's can indeed warp. But it isn't really caused by being too thin or excessive hard braking. Material transfer can cause vibration and pulsating if you come to a complete stop on hot brakes and leave the pedal down. This "cooks" an imprint of the pads on the rotors leaving some material there, performing a break in procedure usually eliminates it. Tightening wheel nuts in the wrong sequence, or not torquing them correctly will cause runout as well.

    I would fit new rotors and start from scratch rather than machining old ones. A lot of the time runout can actually be machined into a rotor if it isn't set up properly on the lathe.
     
  12. Jxfwsf

    Jxfwsf Well-Known Member

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    as much as they say modern pads are safe it still contains fiberous materials, we all know the risks of asbestos dust and fibers lodging in your lungs and causing cancer, new pad material imo just haven't been around long enough to say it's safe or not, the same caution should be taken and not get the dust airborne, guess we'll find out in 20-30 years of use......
     
  13. Not_An_Abba_Fan

    Not_An_Abba_Fan Exhaust Guru

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    Yeah true, but health authorities are a bit more informed now than 20-30 years ago and the technology is there to manufacture non toxic friction materials.
     

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