I have been having problems getting my mechanic to fix the issues that are cropping up with the old ute, and everytime it comes back from the workshop something else seems to be wrong with it... I am happy for anyone on Brisbane Northside to recommend an alternative spanner man to me - but they all seem to be flat out. Anyway, Most recently the harmonic balancer needed replacing. It came home with a new one but I immediately noticed a 15% decrease in fuel economy - can this just be co-incidental or could they have forked up something else while they were rushing through that job? The motor also has a bit of a "shake" to it when idling in park i.e. when I get out to open a gate I can now feel the engine vibrating when it didn't use to. Lots of other minor issues - the interior light won't work but the bulb is fine, half the dashboard lights have stopped working and so on - all these things seem to happen when it comes back from the shop - and he still hasn't fixed my bloody clunking front end! I want to do a basic check/clean/replace of all the ususal sensors to make sure the economy issue isn't one of those but one of my legs is currently in plaster which makes it a bit hard to spend time under the bonnet. Any suggestions about the above issues are greatly appreciated. Cheers.
Check the codes - you can do that with your leg in plaster. http://forums.justcommodores.com.au...22307-checking-error-codes-vr-vs-revised.html
Yep - did that; removed and replaced the engine fuse, took it for a nice drive, and tested getting 12's and nothing else. The reduction in fuel economy was immediately obvious after its last visit to the mechanic as was the noticable vibration when idling. Going back and talking to the same mechanic is my least preferred option at this stage - any other ideas? Cheers.
The noticeable vibration when idling sounds ignition related so double check that all spark plug leads are fully pushed home on the coils and plugs. If its still there pop the bonnet at night with engine running and see if there are any high voltage sparking on the coils or leads. One plug misfiring will casue a vibration and a loss of economy. Best way to find a good mechanic is to ask at a (honest) used car yard - they don't risk getting their cars fixed dodgy to go on their lot.
im on brisbane north side.... this guy has been my families mechanic for YEARS! and he is pretty good.. honest straight to the facts doesnt dodge you about.... name of the joint is Mac's Muffler. He is located in Pickering street (big yellow building cant really miss it) ask for Peter King.
Re - the electrical - Sounds like a fuse so check them out first. If they check out ok and you still have problems let me know and we can run through some checks.
Many thanks for the tip Batty_123, I know Pickering Street pretty well and will definitely look up Peter when we next have enough cash to send the car to the shop. Kopper69 - which would be the obvious fuses to check for this issue? We were under the bonnet just the other day to remove the engine fuse for the ecu reset - everything tested o.k. after that - I will go down there now and pull all the others for a squiz. Hako, thanks for the ongoing suggestions, pushed and jiggled all the cables, no obvious change...I would like to replace all of the plugs and leads but have to wait until we get some cash to do that. Did the dark viewing, no results I'm afraid. Big thanks so far guys - I hope we can get this sorted out relatively painlessly. Cheers.
Check the vacuum hose to the fuel pressure regulator (back of inlet manifold) and all other hoses for splits etc. Maybe the Idle Air Control valve needs cleaning along with the throttle body (can of throttle body cleaner). Does the motor still shake with aircon on and in Park?
is it a v6 or v8??? Is the clunking in the front noticable mainly when parking or turning at low speeds full lock?? or is it when you go over bumps?
It's a V6 exec...makes the noise (clunking/creaking) all the time now, slow, fast, parking, pushing the front of the car down when stationary...I sort of think it might be the radius rod bushes, but they looked o.k from my restricted viewpoint last time I tried to squeeze under the front (it has been lowered onto Kings Lows and I'm not as slim as I used to be...) Here is a link to my last write up about this problem; it pretty much says it all: http://forums.justcommodores.com.au...7/81970-vs-calais-front-suspension-noise.html Thanks Hako, I'll give those hoses a look next time I stagger down under the house. Cheers.
yeah radius ord bushes or sway bar link pins another thing is the strut insert retainer nut has come loose or the insert itself is flogged out. rough idle can be plenty of things not sure how you can stuff up a harmonic balancer but could be engine mounts, dfi module, leads, plugs, iac valve, bad earths on ignition system related the list goes on and on
Perhaps the mechanic bent one of the teeth on for the crank angle sensor while replacing the balancer. Is it possible to fit a buick balancer on an ecotec?
Thanks Pub24/7...we'll try and work through that list...about the only thing I am sure it isn't (the noise) is the sway bar link pins. Hako, just checked the vacuum hose to the fuel pressure regulator and it seemed o.k. but it is a bit hard getting right in back there when trying to balance on one leg...it's not just the balancing bit, but trying to find somewhere to put the leg that's in the cast! Engine/car vibrates in Park with the aircon on or off - no difference to the vibration...vibration is not perceivable when the car is in gear and stationary. But that does remind me of another issue (possibly related); when stopped at an intersection the revs will sometimes suddenly drop as if the fan has just kicked in or the air con been turned on, even though neither has happened...but no accompanying vibration that is comparable to the issue being discussed. Thanks for the ongoing help. Cheers.
Could be a sticky IAC due to buildup....although not sure why it would cause a vibration unless it sticks at a point which causes a below normal engine speed at idle.....but the change in revs for no particular reason points that way.
O.k. thanks for that, sounds doable - will give the TB a clean and give the IAC a going over while I am at it. Could something like this be responsible for a 15% decrease in economy? Given that it mainly drives in Brisbane traffic it does spend a fair amount of time idling, but this is still a pretty large consumption change. I will see how it turns out - cheers.
Check the fuses below the steering wheel panel. There are 3 clips, turn the 90 degrees and pull on the dash to put pressure on them and they pop out. There are about 15 fuses behind there. On the back of the panel is a fuse layout diagram which identifies each fuse, so you should work it out fairly quickly. Fuse number 4, interior illumination I would be checking first. Check all the spark plug leads are on tight too, if one wasnt put on tight enough it may not be firing as strong. It might be worth taking the spark plugs out and checking them as there may have simply been a bit of dirt fall onto the plug causing it not to fire intermittently.
Thanks kopper69, We have checked all of the internal fuses - cigarette lighter circuit was gone...but all of the others looked o.k....replaced the cabin bulb although the old one was still o.k., and it now works, go figure. Went under the bonnet again and pulled and checked all of the engine bay fuses, pulled out and reseated all of the relays while we were at it but didn't do any resistance checks yet. Have jiggled and pushed all leads at coils and plugs...I can't physically get in there to remove and replace all of the plugs (see above mentioned plastered leg) but as soon as I am back on two feet I plan to change all the leads and plugs - hopefully that will make the difference we are looking for, cos it is still shaking around and using more juice than it should. Cheers for the advice.
If the car is noticeably rough all the time just sitting there you can determine the exact cylinder causing the problem fairly easily. You simply disconnect each connector off the injector, one at a time while the car is running. They simply clip off, very easy. As you disconnect the injector, fuel will no longer be supplied to that cylinder. Without the cylinder firing the car will run rough each time you disconnect the injector except on the faulty cylinder. Because the faulty cylinder is already playing up there wont be much difference when you disconnect the injector. It will be noticable compared to the others.
