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Jolls VY SS Ute Project (Jimi Hendrix)

Skylarking

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Jolls

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Sound System

While waiting for the go fast pieces in the mail I turned my attention to the sound system.

System Specs
  • Sony XAV-AX3000 Double DIN head unit
  • Clarion XR2420 4 Channel Amp
  • Alpine MRX-M55 Mono Power Amp
  • Alpine 12" sub mounted in custom VY ute enclosure
  • Alpine Crossovers for the door speakers and tweeters
  • Unknown aftermarket door speakers and tweeters (assume Alpine to match the rest of the componentry)
Had Jimi not come with the system already partially installed I probably wouldn't have done much more than added an aftermarket head-unit and upgraded the factory speakers (if they needed it) as I only need a bluetooth capable head unit to take work calls on the move/navigate to site and to listen to some tunes or the ABC for sport/news.

However, seeing as the goodies were there I needed to learn how it all worked. I don't fully understand the requirement for two separate amps when one of them is a 4 channel and is only using driving the component speakers. I assume that there was a plan to add an additional two rear speakers behind the seats or in the tub. There is an additional cable running from the headunit to the 4 channel amp but nothing connected and my current plan doesn't include expansion; however, the cabling will remain just in case (and it would be a PITA to pull out).

It took a bit of research to get my head around gain and high/low pass filters and how to best set it up. Once I understood the jargon and wiring requirements it was just a matter of cable identification and the pain of getting a 0 gauge cable through the firewall to the battery.

The final acoustic set up was confusing with so many different options and opinions floating around on the web. I don't have access to the speaker specs and I wasn't about to pull the car apart to find them so that ruled out the multimeter option. It was probably a bit too sound engineering for my needs anyway. I opted for the 80 by ear method (see below).
  • Disconnect RCA from sub woofer amp
  • Turn amps to 0% gain and turn off all filters
  • Raise head unit volume to 80%
  • Raise the gain until speakers begin to distort and then back off until distortion is gone.
  • Turn volume back down to minimal
  • Disconnect RCAs from 4 channel amp and connect RCA to sub
  • Turn on low pass filter and set to 80Hz
  • Turn head unit volume back up to 80%
  • Raise the gain until speakers begin to distort and back off until they don't. Mine didn't really distort so I lowered the gain until I hit what I thought was reasonable.
  • Adjust the low pass filter to ear - ended up leaving mine at 80Hz
  • Turn head unit back down to minimal volume and reconnect RCA to 4 channel amp
  • Turn the volume back to an enjoyable level
It took me much longer to get my head around the jargon, understanding what filters did what and why and then selecting the best set up procedure for my situation than it did setting up and tuning the system.

I started the process thinking that the entire system is overkill - but I learnt a lot and the sound quality is definitely better.

Would I shell out the coin for the improvement? Probably not - even the improved sound quality will not make ABC grandstand sound better when my Wests Tigers are playing. :D
 
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Jolls

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@Skylarking close but no - they are incorrect too. The ones required for the fobs are these.
s-l500.jpg

The tabs bend down to horizontally mount the CR2032 on the board.

Pretty easy to do and I will post a picture when the replacement arrives. I tried to purchase the tabs and uses a standard CR2032 but couldn't buy them from Jaycar. It was just as easy to order the entire battery as it was to do the replacement. If I find the tabs down the track I will grab a few of the inevitable replacement.

Cheers n Beers
Jolls
 
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Fu Manchu

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I used JBL GTO-609c in front and back in the Cross 8.

In the Crewman I used JBL609c front and Alpine 2ways in the rear.
 

Jolls

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Got excited today - received a message that the M80 diff bearing adjusters had been delivered. Headed home with a plan to rebuild the diff tonight. Everything on the bench ready to go. Test fit the bearings into the new adjusters- way too small.

Go back and check the site I purchased them from and sure as eggs in the specs is a note that states they require oversized bearings.

I did solder the connections for the oil pressure and temperature gauges into a two pole Narva connector so I can now disconnect at the dash for maintenance/repair as required. Once the oil pressure sensor arrives I am at least ready to go.

So washed my hands and headed in to cook dinner - what a let down!
 

Jolls

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Now this is automotive porn!

Clutch and Diff Parts.jpg


Mantic 9 inch twin plate clutch with lightened flywheel and Eaton Detroit TrueTrac, Dana 3.9 gears and Speedworks bearing adjusters ready to go in. The pinion has the main bearing pressed on, a dummy bearing cone in place with a 21 thou shim (which I trust was a great guess) so we are all set to go.

My lovely wife picked up the oversized bearings for the new bearing adjusters from the big smoke in her lunch hour today.

I would set the diff up tonight but I have invited people for beers to watch the footy. I will have to wait patiently until tomorrow or the weekend.

I am secretly praying that the rain predicted for tomorrow is heavier than expected so we can claim a rain day and work on Jimi. It is a family construction business so we may still be able to pull it off without upsetting anyone!

Cheers n Beers
Jolls
 
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Jolls

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The rain came down so we got a bit of a start on Jimi's drivetrain.

First cab off the rank was the diff. Fitted it all up quite easily; however, the pinion is too shallow so I need another or thicker shim. I don't have access to any and haven't been able to locate the right ones on the net. I have decided to drop it off to the local diff guy who will set up up for only a few beer tokens as I have already fitted up the bearings etc.

One thing I did learn was that the oil and oxide works an absolute treat for marking the pinion and ring gear relationship.

So the M80 out of the VZ will be installed in the meantime.

Next was to start on the motor end. Once we raised him up on the hoist we had a good look and found a couple of surprises that were not visible on the ground.
  • Main seal was weeping - I think it could have been left but then it mean the bx coming back out should the leak be more that expected or when it lets go in ???. So for insurance we picked up a new one.
  • No spigot bearing in the rear of the crank. So much for everything there ready to go. The hunt was on - picked on up from a clutch and brake place in Canberra.
  • Checked the supplied parts and found that the gearbox to motor mounting bolts are missing. None of the specialty fastener outlets in Canberra could provide a flanged M10 1.5 40mm bolt so we were out of luck there. Fortunately the VE motor we have for the Rat Rod project uses the same bolts so we will liberate them until we can find a replacement set.
After a run into town to pick up the missing bits there was only enough time to mount the new flywheel and clutch ready for tomorrow. The twin plate Mantic clutch was a very simple to set up and fit off. The only problem we came across was the Mantic clutch slave cylinder was the wrong thread for the external bleed setup that came with the "refurbished" box. The slave that came with the box is new so we are running with it for the simplicity of the bleed system.

Mantic Clutch Installed medium.jpg

So the plan for tomorrow - weather permitting - is to cannibalise the VZ for the diff, front swaybar links (they are missing) and tailshaft. Once we have them in hand we can fit up the gearbox, tailshaft, diff, swaybar links and the 3" exhaust. That should get us off the hoist so we can connect the clutch hose and new heater hoses/heater tap and add the ECM. Back up on the hoist to bleed the clutch and a final check then, touch wood, we will Jimi back to life.

If we get that done tomorrow it will be beers and clean up the garage for the weekend. What could go wrong?

Cheers n Beers
Jolls
 

Jolls

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We'll see
 
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