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Keeping Engine Warm??

Sabbath'

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I might bite the bullet and just get one.
May be from Holden. That way, I can give them the VIN and get the correct one for the engine.

The parts program that Repco/possibly Bursons aswell uses can search by VIN aswell so they may be cheaper than going through Holden.
 

Nut Kracker

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The parts program that Repco/possibly Bursons aswell uses can search by VIN aswell so they may be cheaper than going through Holden.
Thanks mate.....I didn't know they could search by VIN.
Worth a shot I'd say.
Although, the AC Delco IAT ari suggested looks mighty tempting.....$30
Burson's wanted $55.
I would say they would be cheaper than Holden, as I found out when buying a pair of o2 sensors.
Repco $85 a pair.
Holden $160 a pair.
 

Nut Kracker

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Is there any way in the tune, that the butterflies can be opened more, but still retain base idle?

The way the T/B is set up is, I can adjust the butterflies in relation to the Idle adjuster block.
The block where the idle adjuster screw is, slides onto the shaft through the T/B and is held tight by 2 grub screws.
That way, the butterflies can be opened (or closed) and the idle screw block can rotate in relation to the butterflies.

Anyway, the reason I am asking is, that I couldn't, for the life of me figure out why,
when I pressed the accelerator pedal from idle, when the engine is running, there is a a slight resistance.....
But when the engine is off, there is absolutely NONE what-so-ever.

I finally realised the reason for this is, that when the engine is running, the butterflies are hardly open and what is happening is
the vacuum pressure in the manifold is sucking the butterflies shut. So when the accelerator pedal is first pressed, it feels sticky.

If I can open them say another 2mm or so, that would relieve some of the suction on the butterflies and therefore
eliminate that sticky accelerator pedal.

 
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delcowizzid

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just crack them open slightly thats probably why it doesnt stay running when cold the iac cant feed in enough air
 

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The way they are set now, the idle sits around 840 to 880 rpm at NOT.
That's the ideal idle range for this engine.
I have tried what you suggested, but you only have to touch them and the idle will shoot up to and over 1000rpm

And as far as the IAC goes, I reckon it's too small for the T/B and manifold.
 

delcowizzid

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if your tps volts goes high enough it will go out of idle mode and rev high.the iac is plenty big enough for even a 454.you really need the tuner to get an aldl cable on it and tweak the throttle stop ill it idles hot with 20 or so iac steps may take a bit of adjusting and then backing off the tps to get volts back down so its in idle mode
 

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Thanks for that.
That makes a lot of sense.

I've just raised the idle to around 950 rpm and it seems a lot better....not perfect, but better.
I don't recall the preferred idle speed for the cam that's in it, but the idle seems fine.

It's got a nice lumpy sound out the exhaust.
 

Irukanji

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Twist the throttle screw/s a half turn to compensate for the tiny IAC? So it stays open just enough to keep the engine running?
 

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Thanks mate.....But that's what I've been doing for the last two days.
 

delcowizzid

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your cold start will be much better once you get the butterflys open a little and the iac can do its job of adding extra air not all the air LOL
 
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