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Knocking in 2000 VT. Narrow down possibilities to see if it can be a diy job.

LKVSPNTWD

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Hey guys, new member. Long time browser.
Forums have saved me hundreds in labor and misdiagnosis.
But this current issue is a newbie for me.

Everytime I drive. No matter if engine is hot or cold. Weather is hot or cold. Dry or wet.
Whenever I engage moderate acceleration or turn left or right at intersections/roundabouts, I am hearing a fairly loud and repetitive knocking noise coming from passenger side middle/back of the car.

Ive taken a look at tires/wheels/caps and rotors. Exhaust. Nothing appears to be loose/cracked or broken in anyway.

Any idea what this could be or what could cause such an issue. I thought it could possibly could be engine mounts or cv joint?

TIA.
LKV.
 

Not_An_Abba_Fan

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Check the centre bearing on the tail shaft.
 

Not_An_Abba_Fan

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Yes, the drive shaft. Under the middle of the car there is a mount that the shaft runs through. Usually the rubber splits and collapses causing the shaft to bang against the floor. The shaft should be sitting in the centre of the bush, if it's sagged down to the bottom, that is most likely your problem.
 

WHCapriceHBD

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I'm going to put my vote down on one of the rear independent rear axles (coming out the side of the diff, connecting to the rear wheel hub, has a ring of allen bolts around the wheel end of the axle)

The reason I think this, is because during a turn, the uni joints in the rear axles on each side must take up and allow the ball and slide joints to adjust to movement. The wheel on the inside of the turn makes less revolutions than the outside wheel on the outside of the turn (hence needing a "differential" between wheel speeds)
This is why welded diffs squeal the wheels slightly during tight carpark turns and are hard to park- the rear axle is one solid welded together unit and the wheels cant rotate independently of each other allowing for a difference in wheel speed on each side of the car during turns. And they snap axles.

In short, my vote goes to checking the rear axles and their uni joints. if one fails, it can exhibit a clicking or clunking repetitive noise during turns as the flogged joint rotates.
 

LKVSPNTWD

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Yes, the drive shaft. Under the middle of the car there is a mount that the shaft runs through. Usually the rubber splits and collapses causing the shaft to bang against the floor. The shaft should be sitting in the centre of the bush, if it's sagged down to the bottom, that is most likely your problem.

Took some photos but cant upload from phone there is some exposed rubber in the joint but otherwise nothing to indicate anything has dropped. It just looks straight throughout without any height deviation
 

Turtl3

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Yes u should be able to see the rubber, as long as u cannot see any tears in the rubber, and it doesnt move up and down within the bracket freely...then thats probably fine.

My vote is also on the cv joints/axle shafts ...or the diff itself because u sed that it happens under heavier throttle applications, not just turning left or right.

Jack the car up and give the axle shafts the chinese burn test, there shouldnt be any twisting movement between the 2 ends of each shaft (a very small amount is tolerable). Then grab the flange on the front of the diff and see if it has any up and down/in and out play/slop. It should be solid, if u can move it, then ur pinion bearings r stuffed. And depending on how long it has been running like that for...the gearset will probably be knackered aswel (time for new diff) another thing u can do if its an open centre diff. Is jaxk up one of the rear wheels and leave the other on the ground. Turn the free wheel by hand and listen for any grinding/grumbling noises
 
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LKVSPNTWD

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Any ideas of price range for replacements/labor inclusive. Id imagine somewhere around 7/800?
 

Turtl3

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U need to find out whats causing the noise first...then we will be able to gauge how much parts should cost and what sort of labour time is involved
 
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