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Knocking noise on 2010 Sv6 (with video)

tennuteproject

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Hi so don't have any context for how and when it happened because I bought the car not running, managed to turn her over but its making a knocking noise.

Any ideas on what this sound could be, i know its a stretch but maybe someones heard something similar.
Cheers!

 

krusing

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Need more information about the car/ute in your request for assistant,
so ideas can be provided to what it could be -
Year ?
K/s ?
Motor ?
Does it have a service History ?

Going by the clip you added, it sounds like its a dead lifter, and what other mystery items you may find when you pull it down,
And depending upon the answers to the questions above,
Might be easier/cheaper to just replace the motor, than to repair it,
Depending where you are located in Victoria
There would be a Wrecker somewhere that would possibly have a replacement motor.
Cost for a motor approx $600 [depending where you get it]
Cost to pull it down, repair it with labour and parts, probably $1,500 > $2,000 [depends where you go]

I got a replacement LFX with 175,000 k/s on it, for $550 for my nephews 2012 S2 Thunder Ute from Jollys in Dandenong.
 
Last edited:

tennuteproject

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Need more information about the car/ute in your request for assistant,
so ideas can be provided to what it could be -
Year ?
K/s ?
Motor ?
Does it have a service History ?

Going by the clip you added, it sounds like its a dead lifter, and what other mystery items you may find when you pull it down,
And depending upon the answers to the questions above,
Might be easier/cheaper to just replace the motor, than to repair it,
Depending where you are located in Victoria
There would be a Wrecker somewhere that would possibly have a replacement motor.
Cost for a motor approx $600 [depending where you get it]
Cost to pull it down, repair it with labour and parts, probably $1,500 > $2,000 [depends where you go]

I got a replacement LFX with 175,000 k/s on it, for $550 for my nephews 2012 S2 Thunder Ute from Jollys in Dandenong.


Hey so its a 2010 SV6 with 119,000km km on it, the second over never serviced it from 60,000km so we've just decided that the whole engine is probably in bad nick so its worth changing, especially considering i only payed $1k for the whole car.

I'm having trouble figuring out which motor it would take so i wouldnt have to change wiring, ecu, ect.
Its plated sep 2010 SV6, i havnt checked whats pressed on the motor yet but would you have an idea what motor it would take?
 

Woodsy104

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Hey so its a 2010 SV6 with 119,000km km on it, the second over never serviced it from 60,000km so we've just decided that the whole engine is probably in bad nick so its worth changing, especially considering i only payed $1k for the whole car.

I'm having trouble figuring out which motor it would take so i wouldnt have to change wiring, ecu, ect.
Its plated sep 2010 SV6, i havnt checked whats pressed on the motor yet but would you have an idea what motor it would take?
The build plate located in the engine bay has the engine model (located under the factory air box)
 

Skylarking

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@tennuteproject, where is the noise coming from?

The easiest way to find out is to grab a 1m section of garden hose and put one end to your ear and move the other end around the rockers, heads and the sump and you should have a much better idea of location... Just be sensible and keep the hose, your cloths and body parts away from spinning bits and it should be ok...

If it sounds like it’s only at once rocker, pushrod or lifter location that is noisy, it could be repairable, though you’d need to evaluate how slugged the rest of the engine is (take off a rocker cover, or take off the oil filler cap and look inside the engine if possible)....

But if you think it’s too way too slugged and want to replace the engine, what’s to loose trying something rather radical?

As a radical step, since rim borded today, consider dropping the oil, disconnecting the battery (so you can’t start it) and then fill it up to the very top with safe low VOC paint thinners ($100 for 20l?) or kerosine (since it’s not as harsh on seals?). Leave it soak for a week and then drain the cruddy fluid well.. maybe even blow compressed air in through the oil filler cap with sump plug removed to get as much of the stuff out (may be use rags to catch the crud coming out of the sump as it could make a mess)... Then fill up with clean cheap oil to the correct level, chuck on a cheap filter and connect the battery then start the engine. Hopefully oil pressure will built up quickly so listen for any noises. If it’s worse, you‘ve just lost the cost of the thinners, some cheap oil and filter...

Hopefully the sound is not as bad as before and it’s actually improved the situation, in which case let her get warm and then dump the oil once again... Depending on the improvement, you could try and repeat this automotive colonic cleanse a second time, or just fill up with cheap oil and another cheap filter and go for a gentle long drive b4 dumping it again and doing a final fill of cheap oil and filter.

Who knows, if it’s just a stuck lifter, maybe just maybe, doing the above could be enough to clean it and the sludge out and make it quiet again... maybe... Obviously, if it’s better after the first or second cleanse, and the oil changes, drive it around for a while before trying a flush additive and finally filling up with good oil... If it hasn’t worked pull the engine and take off the front cover to find out how well the method actually was at cleaning things and to find out where that noise was coming from :)

Video tape the whole process and stick it on a youtube channel you create and everyone on the www will know if such an automotive colonic treatment actually work or not. If you get millions of hits you’ll make $$$ otherwise you’ll have thrown away a throw a couple of hundred $... and given us all the answer we always wanted :p

PS: on these forums, @losh1971 changed his lifters and put the stuck lifter in a jar and had it soaking in thinners. After a couple of weeks, it loosened up enough he could dismantle it... Once cleaned the lifter was ok so was stored on a shelf.
 
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losh1971

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@tennuteproject, where is the noise coming from?

The easiest way to find out is to grab a 1m section of garden hose and put one end to your ear and move the other end around the rockers, heads and the sump and you should have a much better idea of location... Just be sensible and keep the hose, your cloths and body parts away from spinning bits and it should be ok...

If it sounds like it’s only at once rocker, pushrod or lifter location that is noisy, it could be repairable, though you’d need to evaluate how slugged the rest of the engine is (take off a rocker cover, or take off the oil filler cap and look inside the engine if possible)....

But if you think it’s too way too slugged and want to replace the engine, what’s to loose trying something rather radical?

As a radical step, since rim borded today, consider dropping the oil, disconnecting the battery (so you can’t start it) and then fill it up to the very top with safe low VOC paint thinners ($100 for 20l?) or kerosine (since it’s not as harsh on seals?). Leave it soak for a week and then drain the cruddy fluid well.. maybe even blow compressed air in through the oil filler cap with sump plug removed to get as much of the stuff out (may be use rags to catch the crud coming out of the sump as it could make a mess)... Then fill up with clean cheap oil to the correct level, chuck on a cheap filter and connect the battery then start the engine. Hopefully oil pressure will built up quickly so listen for any noises. If it’s worse, you‘ve just lost the cost of the thinners, some cheap oil and filter...

Hopefully the sound is not as bad as before and it’s actually improved the situation, in which case let her get warm and then dump the oil once again... Depending on the improvement, you could try and repeat this automotive colonic cleanse a second time, or just fill up with cheap oil and another cheap filter and go for a gentle long drive b4 dumping it again and doing a final fill of cheap oil and filter.

Who knows, if it’s just a stuck lifter, maybe just maybe, doing the above could be enough to clean it and the sludge out and make it quiet again... maybe... Obviously, if it’s better after the first or second cleanse, and the oil changes, drive it around for a while before trying a flush additive and finally filling up with good oil... If it hasn’t worked pull the engine and take off the front cover to find out how well the method actually was at cleaning things and to find out where that noise was coming from :)

Video tape the whole process and stick it on a youtube channel you create and everyone on the www will know if such an automotive colonic treatment actually work or not. If you get millions of hits you’ll make $$$ otherwise you’ll have thrown away a throw a couple of hundred $... and given us all the answer we always wanted :p

PS: on these forums, @losh1971 changed his lifters and put the stuck lifter in a jar and had it soaking in thinners. After a couple of weeks, it loosened up enough he could dismantle it... Once cleaned the lifter was ok so was stored on a shelf.

Nah that was @vs-lover . I'm yet to replace my lifters. Hopefully it happens this year but I'm running out of time. Be another while before I have all I need to do the job.
 

krusing

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I like the ^^^^ [above] options,
But throwing good money after bad,
the seller knew its wasn't a a viable option to fix it,
so that's why he/they sold it so cheap.
Like I said, $ replacement motor for Approx $550, just have to pull the old unit out, and install the replacement,
If you don't wish to do it yourself,
Again Depending were you are in "Victoria" there is someone that's willing to replace it for some $'s.
As its not that hard. just need the know how, and to do it properly, not some Backyard Bush Mechanic.
 
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