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Landcruiser VR V8

Discussion in 'VR - VS Holden Commodore (1993 - 1997)' started by Seaair, Nov 18, 2015.

  1. Seaair

    Seaair New Member

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    Ignition issue for the Guru,s.... I have a Landcruiser 80 series with a marks conversion running a VR V8 Calais engine etc. it randomly stopped working after my inlet manifold gasket was replaced. It runs well for a few days then stops while driving then takes up to a week to start again. It stopped again on Monday had a long walk home after draining both batteries. Did a lot of reading and worked through most of the things to test the ignition module but got to the last test which was to disconnect the 6 pin from the module bridge the grey/red to the black and the White /black to the red then use my low power led test light on the blue/white and connected to the positive battery and then crank over.... No blinking of the test light.. Sooo thinking it is not he Hall effect sensor... Interesting though reconnected the 6 pin to the ignition module and it started... Hmmm... Then made it a little down the road and stopped again, repeated the process and she fired again made it ho,e and parked her up.... Given all the info does this sound like I need to pull her to bits and replace the Hall effect sensor or any other ideas before I rip off the intake manifold etc to get to it?????
    Open to suggestions
    Thanks heaps
     
  2. Bigfella237

    Bigfella237 Well-Known Member

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    Before you start replacing things, consider that maybe just moving the wiring harness and disconnecting/reconnecting connectors might be what resolved the problem? If the engine runs, can you wriggle the wiring and/or connectors to make it splutter or stop?

    It might be a break in a wire or a bad contact, which can be affected by vibration, torque and even thermal changes.
     
  3. EYY

    EYY Well-Known Member

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    Try and borrow an ignition module off someone. They're usually the problem. Is the tacho smooth, or a bit jumpy? What dash cluster are you using?
     
  4. _R_J_K_

    _R_J_K_ Well-Known Member

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    I'd be looking at alternator too, I had a similar problem to this last week.

    Start her up and disconnect the battery, and go for a short drive. If the car conks out, that's your alternator. Alternatively, check the charge at idle over a period of time, should be 13+ volts.
     
  5. ari666

    ari666 250,000 hits

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  6. Seaair

    Seaair New Member

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    Thanks for the quick reply, I had a really good go at that during one of the times she was running but moving and wiggling things didn't seem to result in a failure, even holding the tongue in a different direction didn't help.......
     
  7. Seaair

    Seaair New Member

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    I was worried about that as it seems to be the norm with them, but going through the tests it seems to come up ok, I do plan to ask a couple of the friends if they have a spare just to confirm it is cleared entirely out of the mix
     
  8. Seaair

    Seaair New Member

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    Thanks RJK, that is definitely one of the issues although I'm not sure it's entirely the problem but yes I do get all the warning lights come up intermittently and notice a volt drop from a charge of about 14.35 down to 12.4 then it will pick back up, but it baffles me if this was the issue then why won't it start at least all of the time and then konk it while driving? Batteries are definitely suffering from it all...
     
  9. Seaair

    Seaair New Member

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    Sorry EYY in relation to cluster I am running the standard Landcruiser 80 series one....
     
  10. Seaair

    Seaair New Member

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    Thanks ari666 it's one of those ones that uses you as a part of the circuit and is supposedly sensor safe it has an LED and buzzer and triggers from 3 to 28 volts DC... When I bridged the wires and tested the blue /white wire I noticed an initial couple of blinks of the light prior to turning her over but then nothing when turning over, thus suspecting the Hall Effect?
     
  11. _R_J_K_

    _R_J_K_ Well-Known Member

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    Science of batteries I guess. I could leave my car for an hour with this problem and it would turn on again.

    The alternator is supposed to be able to supply all of the cars power needs, so you can drive a car without a battery. The battery pretty much just acts as a giant capacitor when everything is working fine. If the alternator dies the car is getting all of its charge for accessories and spark from the battery, so the car might start fine but as you get further down the road the power from the battery is getting lower and lower and lower until there's not enough energy to provide spark. The reason it won't start all of the time is that the batteries are now depleted from the energy used driving.

    Maybe a better question is does it just cut out suddenly or does it gradually slow down to a stop?
     
  12. Seaair

    Seaair New Member

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    Sooooo I had the alternator rebuilt as it needed it anyway, charged the batteries and still no start, bridged the wires again and tested with no pulse then reconnected the 6 pin connector to the ignition module and she started, fan for a while showed charge, I moved many of the wires with no effect, car was idling a little rougher than normal and then just stopped... I am getting the impression that it is either the ignition module or the Hall effect sensor... More so the Hall effect but it gets me that it starts every time after I bridge the wires and test crank then plug it back in and off she goes for a short time?
     

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