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Leaking Radiator

jughead1

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Hi all,

Last week my VX Series II wagon (V6) radiator sprung a leak.

I am getting it replaced today, but I noticed that only one fan was running (right side as you are facing the car with the bonnet open).
The other fan turned quite easily by hand, but would not come on. Is there a sensor/relay for each fan, or are they both run by the same sensor/relay?

Also, at one point the temp gauge went right to the top for a few seconds. When I noticed it I immediately stopped the car and switched the engine off. Would this have damaged the heads or head-gaskets??

If so, how difficult is it to replace the head gaskets on these ? And how much is it likely to cost if done by a mechanic?

Any help appreciated.

JG
 

accentstencil

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I doubt that you did any damage if you turned it off immediately. Unplug the fan that wasn't working and connect 12 volts directly to the terminals to see if it works, that way you can rule out a faulty fan motor. Also, turn the A/C on to see if both fans come on. There is a low speed fan relay and a high speed fan relay so check them out. There seems to be varying opinions on how the fans operate. I know on my car both fans operate, first on low speed and then on high speed if it gets hotter. Others say there is one fan for low speed and one for high speed. Things might have changed from model to model.
 

jughead1

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Just got a call from the radiator place - I have blown a head gasket - or worse!
 

accentstencil

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What happened after the car cooled down, did you start it again and if so, how was it running? How well do you know this radiator place? If you went in there and said you might have a blown head gasket they might just take the opportunity to say you have when in fact you haven't. I'm not saying they are shonky but there are many rip off merchants in the car repair industry, so I would be asking for proof of their claim unless you know and trust them.
 

jughead1

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Picked the car up yesterday evening ($465) and drove home - about 5 Ks. No problems, and temps were fine - but lots of steam from exhaust.

Started to drive to work today, and got about 10 Ks from home (on a 75 Km drive) when the temp shot up to max. Stopped immediately, and checked the overflow tank was empty!

So, after about 10 mins, drove home again. Temp guage stayed between 3/4 and max! I figured the heads were shot anyway, and getting to work was a priority!

Looks like I need to replace the heads.

How hard a job is that? I am fairly competent at this, and have replaced head gaskets before, buit not on a commodore.

Cheers,

JG
 

jughead1

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Looks like you just have some cream on your lips.

Thanks, very helpful!!!

Anybody know of a place on the Central Coast (near Gosford) that can change the heads for a reasonable price? And any idea what a reasonable price is?

Saw one place that can do it for $999, but they are in Victoria - a bit far to go!

Cheers,

JG
 

K-BAGZ

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For the record, I'd conduct a cooling system pressure test and compression test. You already spent $500 and a problem still exists. I would be furious.

I would start with the basics first before throwing anymore money at it.

- Bleed the cooling system.
- Coolant condition and specific gravity.
- Cooling fan operation.
- Thermostat operation.
- Water pump conditon.
- Radiator and heater hose condition.
- Heater core and heater tap condition.

Steam or white smoke out the exhaust is an indication that the engine is burning coolant/water. Either a cracked cylinder head, cracked inlet manifold gasket, cracked head gasket or cracked engine block.
 

jughead1

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For the record, I'd conduct a cooling system pressure test and compression test. You already spent $500 and a problem still exists. I would be furious.

I would start with the basics first before throwing anymore money at it.

- Bleed the cooling system.
- Coolant condition and specific gravity.
- Cooling fan operation.
- Thermostat operation.
- Water pump conditon.
- Radiator and heater hose condition.
- Heater core and heater tap condition.

Steam or white smoke out the exhaust is an indication that the engine is burning coolant/water. Either a cracked cylinder head, cracked inlet manifold gasket, cracked head gasket or cracked engine block.

Unfortunately, I can't get mad at the radiator place as I think the leaking radiator is a symptom, not a fault.

The radiator invoice mentions that they did all these tests, and that there is a "combustion leak". They also flushed the system, etc. And on the phone the guy mentioned that there is probably a cracked head!

Given that the car has done about 250,000 kms, and I drove the car (with several stops) around 200 kms with this problem, the heads are almost definitely shot.

I got some quotes :

Reconditioned heads - $600 - $700\
Remove and re--fit heads (labour, gaskets, bolts) $450 to $1400.

Two places, one in Gosford, one in Newcastle, quoted $1250 & $1350 for the labour component alone!
A place in Auburn, who recondition heads (and motors) quoted $450.

When I told the Gosford guy the Auburn quote, he was very surprised.
As was the Auburn guy when I told him of the Gosford quote!

With such a big difference, I am not sure of the Auburn quote.

Any advice?

JG
 

K-BAGZ

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Sounds a bit sus to me, but anyway.

Advice? Well it's your car and your decision.

Find the best price for you and go with it. Then again, you could supply the parts yourself to make the labour costs cheaper. I wouldn't be ordering cylinder heads until you've/they've inspected them. Could be as simple as a head gasket failure.
 
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