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Leigh's '81 VH SL/X Project

gtrboyy

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If don't find factory vk or vl borgy look into narrowing down v8 3.46 crewman diff.
 

Leigh_G

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Another quick update, things have been a little slow, but are ramping up now.. the stato is now starting to disappear, piece by piece. Been flogging off the interior for a few bux here and there.

Pulled the K frame out of the VH and found a VL intermediate shaft on gumtree.. Paid for it about 8 weeks ago and it still hasn't shown up so looks like I've been ripped off.. :rolleyes: Gotta love some of the people on there... At least I got a good deal on some beefy Nolathane upper trailing arms last week.

The fuel tanks are out of both cars. I'm just waiting on a piece of 5mm aluminium from a mate, which is going in the corner of the boot on drivers side, as a base for my battery relocation box. That should arrive tomorrow and then I can install the tank back underneath. New battery cable is sorted and I've run it through a grommet in the back firewall, just deciding if I go across the back seat and down passenger side (as that's where the starter is) or down drivers side or alongside the tunnel..

In two frames of mind about fuel lines - could just chuck the stock lines in for now, but once it's through regency I'd like to pull the motor and design something to run on E85 so I'll need larger lines, and it's a good time to get it done now.. so maybe I should just bite the bullet and make my own.. Fuel line isn't expensive, it's the AN fittings that add up lol..

Time to get the tank strap extended and look at ordering the trans xmember from tuffmounts.
 

Deuce

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In regards to fuel lines, what will be easier to get through your roadworthy check? And are there many other things that you hope to sneak through?
With my truck I am trying to do everything as tidy and factory as possible for roadworthy check. So then they don't ask about the power steering conversion and send me away for engineers certification.
 

vc commodore

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With my VC battery relocation, I have ran the battery cable through the firewall and down trans hump, left side neat the base where it meets the flat of the floor pan....At the rear, I have it running up the back firewall, to the parcel shelf and across to the right hand side of the car, where the battery is located....I made sure I wrapped the cable where it goes through the rear in rubber water hose to prevent it rubbing through
 

gtrboyy

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Do you really need engineers & how crazy do they go over the car over there?

It will be a 90's stato mechanically in early girl shell
 

vc commodore

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Do you really need engineers & how crazy do they go over the car over there?

It will be a 90's stato mechanically in early girl shell
They tend to go a little crazy...Main reason is there is no roadworthy's here and with the engineering side, they make sure in this instance, the running gear is as per factory for the era the running gear is from....
 

Vin999

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Another quick update, things have been a little slow, but are ramping up now.. the stato is now starting to disappear, piece by piece. Been flogging off the interior for a few bux here and there.

Pulled the K frame out of the VH and found a VL intermediate shaft on gumtree.. Paid for it about 8 weeks ago and it still hasn't shown up so looks like I've been ripped off.. :rolleyes: Gotta love some of the people on there... At least I got a good deal on some beefy Nolathane upper trailing arms last week.

The fuel tanks are out of both cars. I'm just waiting on a piece of 5mm aluminium from a mate, which is going in the corner of the boot on drivers side, as a base for my battery relocation box. That should arrive tomorrow and then I can install the tank back underneath. New battery cable is sorted and I've run it through a grommet in the back firewall, just deciding if I go across the back seat and down passenger side (as that's where the starter is) or down drivers side or alongside the tunnel..

In two frames of mind about fuel lines - could just chuck the stock lines in for now, but once it's through regency I'd like to pull the motor and design something to run on E85 so I'll need larger lines, and it's a good time to get it done now.. so maybe I should just bite the bullet and make my own.. Fuel line isn't expensive, it's the AN fittings that add up lol..

Time to get the tank strap extended and look at ordering the trans xmember from tuffmounts.
Decisions Decisions? what to do for now or for later, sounds co$tly especially aftermarket stuff.
With battery decisions ? It all depends what other electrical you end up using/making in bay and location for the efi/relay wiring, also fuel pump power line to rear, good idea to add extra new earths to motor/chassis, old one was at the battery to radiator side.

Have a look at the vl fuel line positions at the rail/strut area and with vl tank the same as stato with extra return line probably the cheapest way to do it for now with some rubber lines to the injector rails. Find a wreck vk/vl for the factory extra fuel line and the vapour return to carbon canister Or try and fit/modify the old stato ones as you said.

Cheaper to modify your old trans crossmember, not out by much and use the original gearbox mount, wait till v8/trans is in and see/do your measurements.
 

Vin999

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Do you really need engineers & how crazy do they go over the car over there?

It will be a 90's stato mechanically in early girl shell
Engineer report needed if any mods are done in SA, if straight conversion 8 cyl 304 to 6cyl factory 4 wheel disk car then just for new engine number on rego. Ulp filler and exhaust cat installed and good to go, no issues with any running gear.
 

gtrboyy

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That's how I've done several efi conversions all factory parts from different models....none needed engineers just engine numbers changed over when inspected.

vl battery tray to put battery on drivers side & extra fuel line off another early girl + vn diff will bypass that bs.

My last one car was vk 6cyl efi so only had to bend lines up to brake booster area...partly why choose it lol
N/a 6cyl longer iirc can either bend more across firewall or cut/shorten but still would want end flared again.

Early days heard guys would use charcoal cannister line as a return..never tried that as could get extra lines from wrecks to do it properly.

Factory size lines will support decent power for efi even though they look small...carb is different story.

If you're really paranoid about go 3/8 for feed line & use your factory fuel line as return...should be extra slot in brackets that fuel/brake line are in underneath car,


*don't forget to shorten stato filler neck & overflow hose is bigger than early tank when it goes through bootfloor gap...also chop decent length of wiring from stato sender plug to chassis harness.
 
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