Locked out! Remote doesn't work, key won't work in door

[TheDmac]

Yesterday I get to my car after work to find the key isn't working via remote. I figure I'll get someone to bring my spare down. Same deal. I try the keys in the door. They just spin (clockwise) but do click so it's not spinning freely as if the entire door lock is screwed. Either way the door stays locked. I try the boot only to find there is no release for the middle seat from INSIDE the boot (thanks Holden) so after trying to squeeze my hand between the seats to get my arm up high enough to release the latch I give up and resort to kicking my middle seat down which again fails (didn't even leave a mark)

My car has since been towed home and I have absolutely no idea what to do next. I've been told it could be the battery but my odometer is still on and that flashing security light still blinks. Even if it was the battery I can't pop my bonnet. Also been told it could be the BCM or simply my locking system has failed.

Car is a 1999 VT Commodore and it is deadlocked. I was going to call a locksmith but wasn't sure how or if they can pop a dead locked door without causing damage.

Any help related to this matter would be greatly appreciated!

EDIT: Here is a video of the key in the door

 

[uniacidz]

Deadlocked and locksmiths cant do anything.

Only real way, break drivers door glass or any glass you can climb through
Passenger front glass usually cheaper to replace as more break ins on that side so more so produced.
If claim that glass on insurance, do NOT state was cos keys related/unable to gain access.

Once in the vehicle, can open the bonnet as enough room even with door closed to get fingers around the bonnet release

Alternative, is to use some heavy duty metal bent to a hook style and poke it through into the cabin via the middle seat with someone outside guiding you to push down on the rear seat release button which would be fiddly and difficult to do.

Option is to using a dremel or drills, cut out a space in the middle seat plastic to fit an arm, push the middle seat armrest forward and reach up and release the middle seat.

Good luck

Hopefully someone has a better idea

 

[Dayvo]

Try using set of jumper leads and a second battery and jack car up put on stands then connect + to the thick cable on starter motor and earth the - cable

 

[Jxfwsf]

Sure it's deadlocked and not just a knackered barrel, it's shouldn't turn a full circle.
Looks like the end has broken off so it's not hitting the switch to control the solenoid.

Tried a coathanger on the knob inside?

 

[TheDmac]

Sure it's deadlocked and not just a knackered barrel, it's shouldn't turn a full circle.
Looks like the end has broken off so it's not hitting the switch to control the solenoid.

Tried a coathanger on the knob inside?

It probably is a knackered barrel but I've never noticed until now that my central locking isn't working. I suspect it's 2 issues

 

[Jxfwsf]

Had a play around with a VT here... once it's deadlocked you still won't be opening it from inside the car (even with the battery disconnected) unless the key buttons work or the barrel.

Have you ruled out the key battery is flat?
I'd get a copy made at whatever local locksmith (if they can't read the code then the key is totally fubar and not just a flat battery in it),

Then crack open the old key and connect 3 volts to the battery, not much more than that, a couple of AA batteries with wire taped to them if you don't have a small enough power pack (an old sacrificial phone charger 4 Volts @ 400-500mA.... not highly recommended but for a minute or 2 should be fine and not risk the battery exploding) and try the unlock button again.
A smashed up key is going to make starting the car a bit difficult if you want to go that option first.

A copied key will not work until it's been put in the ignition and used to start the car for the BCM to recognise it.

 

[TheDmac]

Update 1: Locksmith is coming out and the dude on the phone suspects it to be the battery as some people suggested. They'll provide enough power for the locks to function. He went on to say the locks require power even when using the manual lock in the door. We'll see what happens I guess

 

[h8tensv6]

Update 1: Locksmith is coming out and the dude on the phone suspects it to be the battery as some people suggested. They'll provide enough power for the locks to function. He went on to say the locks require power even when using the manual lock in the door. We'll see what happens I guess

You do need some power when using the door locks. I know this because i had a faulty light switch that didn't turn the headlights off when opening the door and i locked my car and walked away and the lights stayed on till the battery went dead. The key was new and it wouldn't open the door. I had to get the NRMA to come out because the doors were deadlocked. He got under the front of the car and hooked jumper leads to my battery and hooked them to his battery which gave enough power to get the door lock to work. Got the door open and open bonnet and started the car. NRMA guy said he does about 10 of these per week.

 

[Pollushon]

They deadlock automatically on flat battery. You can use the key to open even dead flat but there's a trick to it. The locks won't click or fully turn. You have to turn the key and lift the door handle at the same time. It usually takes a few goes but it works. I've had to do it on my vy a number of times.

Also the key battery has nothing to do with direct lock use. A commodore will be fine with a dead key battery as it has a passive circuit, the battery runs the active remote unlock only.

 

[TheDmac]

Okay so locksmith has been and gone. Still no real closure as to why or how this happened but we're in and the car is locking and unlocking fine and I got a new keyhead coded for good measure.

All the locksmith did was repeatedly press the unlock button about 10 times he said. Which trust me, I did plenty of times. Unless he kept pressing it and pressing it until the car finally responded I don't know. He got the bonnet up from inside the locked car but didn't actually do anything in the engine bay. My car battery was fine. The manual door lock in the actual door is broken, and probably has been for who knows how long because lets face it, who uses those unless you have to? In my case I only just noticed because I needed it. I will get that replaced when this particular lock smith has them in stock or I find one on eBay to take in but for now it is unlocking and locking fine. I'm not deadlocking it (no one wants a VT anyway) and I am keeping the middle seat closed, but not locked shut so if this does happen again I can climb in and unlock it or climb in, start it, and then unlock the deadlocks.