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Locked out! Remote doesn't work, key won't work in door

Jxfwsf

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Doesn't have to have power to manual lock/unlock.
I've done it on numerous occasions after disconnecting the battery or flat battery on unregistered vt's.

This is not deadlocked though, so the BCM hasn't wound the locking solenoid down on all doors.
So don't press the remote lock button twice (unless you're leaving your windows down)... resist the OCD of walking away and pressing the button multiple times..... or manually lock far left.

Either way, you got in which is good and know you have a faulty barrel.


How it should work with no/flat battery......
 
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Commo Baba

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yeah, and thanks for keeping the thread up to date as a reference and info.
 

TheDmac

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I would like to add for who ever finds this thread via Google or what ever, just attempt what the lock smith did. Repeatedly press unlock within close proximity to the vehicle. Perhaps they can glitch or something? I'm not sure. I've been driving all day so I've been unlocking and locking my car all day without issues
 
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devilly

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since you can unlock the car now,you should grab a cloth with soapy water ring it out and wipe the remote receiver then dry it it's location is in the middle of your dash.
 

uniacidz

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That is really good news and so glad you didnt use my 'final straw' advice.
 

TheDmac

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since you can unlock the car now,you should grab a cloth with soapy water ring it out and wipe the remote receiver then dry it it's location is in the middle of your dash.

Is that the out of place rectangle shape sort of thing directly in the center?
 

Jxfwsf

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it's around a 300 Mhz rf signal, unless you have a sheet of lead dash matt, a bit of dust isn't going to make much difference.
If it's a range issue and have to be next to the car for it to unlock it's a flat keyfob.
 
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devilly

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Is that the out of place rectangle shape sort of thing directly in the center?

yes that's the one,all i know is since i cleaned mine it works heaps better and also knowing the location helps to know where to aim it.i found i also had to cut my dash matt a bit in this location so it would work better.
 

gla

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Okay so locksmith has been and gone. Still no real closure as to why or how this happened but we're in and the car is locking and unlocking fine and I got a new keyhead coded for good measure.

All the locksmith did was repeatedly press the unlock button about 10 times he said. Which trust me, I did plenty of times. Unless he kept pressing it and pressing it until the car finally responded I don't know. He got the bonnet up from inside the locked car but didn't actually do anything in the engine bay. My car battery was fine. The manual door lock in the actual door is broken, and probably has been for who knows how long because lets face it, who uses those unless you have to? In my case I only just noticed because I needed it. I will get that replaced when this particular lock smith has them in stock or I find one on eBay to take in but for now it is unlocking and locking fine. I'm not deadlocking it (no one wants a VT anyway) and I am keeping the middle seat closed, but not locked shut so if this does happen again I can climb in and unlock it or climb in, start it, and then unlock the deadlocks.
Old thread but the same thing happened to me last night with a VT Calais. The remote on the key wouldn't work and the drivers door lock would not turn with the key.
I opened to boot and pulled out the boot lamp and connected a small charger to the positive cable. The headlights came on straight away. There was too much current being pulled by the lights for the charger so it clicked on and off on overload. I left it like this for about 15 minutes then came back and tried the key remote with no luck. I gave it another 5 minutes and tried again. There must of been enough charge in the battery as the remote worked. I've put it back together now and fully charged the battery with the view of not leaving the headlights in auto anymore.
 
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