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Losh's 1976 Yamaha RD 400

Discussion in 'Miscellaneous' started by losh1971, May 28, 2018.

  1. Wozza

    Wozza Well-Known Member

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    I have the dunlops on my bike...my younger brother works in motorcycle shop and recommended them, as he raced on em a few years ago....I like em
    but I still have a large chicken strip, so no idea what they are like on the edge....:)
     
  2. losh1971

    losh1971 Well-Known Member

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    I used to race with the 900GPs at Mallalla and they're pretty decent. I would have preferred full race Avons but getting them in Australia in my sizes is near enough impossible. I had the same 900GPs for a number of years. They have become hard, now that they are 10 years old. I can leave a decent finger nail imprint in the rear one so I'm happy. Might sound weird but there is something quite enjoyable about pressing your nail into a tyre, hmmmm sticky tyre nice.
     
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  3. losh1971

    losh1971 Well-Known Member

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    Rear wheel is back on. I have got the rear wheel centred pretty good, only taken me 4hrs and about 12 off and on's, plus two trips to the machinist. The rear wheel now sits 2mm off centre. To fix it i would need to shave 1mm of the left spacer but I'm happy as this will be the best it has ever been since fitting the TZ rear wheel around 10 or more years ago. As far as I can tell the chain is running dead straight and all parallel to the rear tyre. I had the sprocket machined with a 1.5mm rebate and with the new dome head bolts they are no longer hitting anywhere. For the next couple of months this will be as far as i get, time to save up again for front tyre and pay off the overdraft. 20190227_165702.jpg 20190227_165713.jpg

    I also now have the TT100GP on the rear and hoping all going well I can hit Symonds mid this year. One thing I will need to do is get some squeezy things to strengthen my left hand. Since losing a finger and half the use of another on the same hand by the circular saw I have very little strength. The RD has a very stiff clutch to handle the HP and torque and I could barley squeeze the clutch lever this eve and with 30-40 odd gear changes per lap my weak hand will just not cut it.
     
    Last edited: Feb 27, 2019
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  4. Wozza

    Wozza Well-Known Member

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    Juice the clutch?
    http://www.aircooledrdclub.com/clutch.html
     
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  5. losh1971

    losh1971 Well-Known Member

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    Ill look into it, it may not fit within the rules is the only thing, unless I can find a bike 1979 or earlier that used a hydraulic clutch. Few blokes use a dry clutch off a TZ and they are a fit bit easier on the wrist, than my beefed up wet clutch.
     
  6. EYY

    EYY Well-Known Member

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    Brand new cables, lubricating the lever at the pivot point and welding a short extension on the clutch arm at then engine can help a lot. I tend not to clutch on upshifts, and because the transmissions are constant mesh, they'll always slide into gear provided there isn't heaps of pressure on the dogs. It's just a matter of taking the load off the engine for less than a second during the shift.

    Downshifts however I always clutch to prevent damage to the dogs and gear teeth.

    There are also boxes you can buy that you put inline with your existing clutch cable and it changes the ratio of the pull. Only issue is by adjusting so you get a lighter lever, you lose clutch pull/throw.
     
  7. losh1971

    losh1971 Well-Known Member

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    Yeah I don't always clutch on upshift either. Definitely on down shift especially with my undercut gears. Don't get it right and it can sometimes not go in and you end up in between gears.
    I still need to work on strengthening my left hand its quite annoying in other areas of life when you need to have a firm grip to hold onto something and you can't.
     
  8. VS 5.0

    VS 5.0 Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]
     
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  9. Deuce

    Deuce Super Stock

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    I know my bike is completely different and racing style is a chalk and cheese comparison, but I clutch to launch and then do not touch the lever until the race is over.
    Full throttle, toe under shift lever with pressure, and then just before the rev limit blip the throttle off for 1/4 sec and it slips into gear like a hot knife through butter.
     
  10. afstruct

    afstruct Well-Known Member

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    I remember those .

    I also now have the TT100GP on the rear and hoping all going well I can hit Symonds mid this year. One thing I will need to do is get some squeezy things to strengthen my left hand. Since losing a finger and half the use of another on the same hand by the circular saw I have very little strength. The RD has a very stiff clutch to handle the HP and torque and I could barley squeeze the clutch lever this eve and with 30-40 odd gear changes per lap my weak hand will just not cut it.[/QUOTE]

    Nice progress. Ouch , yeap need to try and strengthen = lots of changes and that's just 1 lap
     
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  11. losh1971

    losh1971 Well-Known Member

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    20190307_160714.jpg 3 bucks at Kmart.
     
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2019
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  12. losh1971

    losh1971 Well-Known Member

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    Got the RD pretty much done now. Gearbox oil has been replaced as recommended by the mechanic. I have pretty much finished all the polishing bar the front wheel which i will get to during the week. I have stripped tbe tyre off the front rim. I'm hoping i might be able to get a new one in the next 2 to 3 weeks. I have decided i will replace the front pads as they got mixed up and there is some uneven wear. Rather start out with dead flat and let them bed in to the rotor, rather than try and bed in some that won't have proper contact for a good 10 laps. I also need a new front brake leaver as i lost the bike when getting it off the stands after temporary fitting the front wheel. It got a tad bent but hitting it with a hammer to try and get it back snapped it. Thinking in abour three weeks time i might be able to test it up a back road somewhere. I just want to make sure it runs before i pay a fee to hit the track and find out i can't get out. 20190311_110457.jpg
     
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  13. losh1971

    losh1971 Well-Known Member

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    Back home this arvo and first thing I did after unpacking the ute was to suss out the RD. I had hoped that my new front TT900GP Dunlop would arrive today, so I could have I fitted and balanced but nup. I was hoping I was going to sneak it out to make sure it runs properly since the tear down and resto. Unfortunately it was not going to happen regardless as I need a new brake leaver as I snapped the old one last time I was home. I had one put aside for me but they had put an original RD aside and I needed a dog-leg lever off a more modern Yami. Wasn't the end of the world though I happened to have the rim in the ute, which was a good thing.
    I ended up slipping the rim and front axle on as I remembered I had some issues with it, like the rear, not being centred properly. It has been off-centre for years, since I fitted the spoke wheels. Today I worked out I needed to shift it over 2mm towards the left, if sitting on the bike. I also noticed the caliper is not sitting right in the centre of the disk. So now I need to have hub spacers modified to bring it over, which will, centre the disk and front wheel.
    I have decided to shave 1.5mm off one spacer and lengthen the other 1.5mm, rather than go the full 2mm. Only reason being is the brake disc will be off centre by 1/2 - 3/4 of a mm if I go the full 2mm. I also noticed there maybe some run out on the disk. I was spinning the wheel and it was binding on the caliper ever so slightly in one spot. Not sure what I can do about it at this stage because ideally it requires a special type of slash grinder that can work in a circular motion, around the contact surface of the disk, as the disk is a one piece, without the bolt in centre, which some earlier models had. I'm hoping it can be touched up on a lathe, or it will mean sending the disk to Melbourne to be ground. I first need it tested though to see if it wasn't the paint between the hub and disk mating surfaces causing the issue, which I have now bare metalled.

    So it's back to Town tomorrow and drop off the bits on Mon and hopefully have them done by Tues. Although I do have about 10 days before my leave starts and then I am up here for two weeks. So as long as I am ready by then I will be right to go for a sneaky squirt up the road, even if I have to load it up on the ute and sneak outside the town.
     
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  14. Wozza

    Wozza Well-Known Member

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    Hi Mate get the disk and caliper lined up spot on, then move the rim across via the spoke's. Just loosen all one side off 1 to 2 turns then tighten the other side the same amount.....
     
  15. losh1971

    losh1971 Well-Known Member

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    If I mod the spacers everything will line up pretty good including the disk and caliper centring. I had another look and I also think the caliper is on a slight angle. Looks like it needs a 1/2mm - 1mm shim or copper washer slipped between the bracket and lower caliper mounting point. That would explain why I had about 1/2mm taper on one side of the pads. Guess that's what happens when you start modding things, and welding bits on, takes a fair amount of tweaking to get it all just right. Funny thing is I rode it a lot with a few things not right and it still handled quite well. Looking forward to hopefully getting some track time July / August this year to really test it out.
     
  16. afstruct

    afstruct Well-Known Member

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    Long term ownership = being pickier and getting it closer to how you want it.
    Going to be , one sweet ride when done .
     
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  17. losh1971

    losh1971 Well-Known Member

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    New tyres are on. Quick bump start and she started up no problem at all. I was tempted to go for a run, but I really didn't want to push my luck. So here is a short vid sitting outside the shed. Everything is sweet now, except the fuel cap spring came undone and to repair it i need to grind off rivets and rerevit, that's a job for later.

     
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  18. losh1971

    losh1971 Well-Known Member

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    Forgot to mention earlier I now have the front wheel almost perfectly centred. To get it perfect I would need to shave 1/3mm off the brake disc side wheel spacer. But I think that's just being way too anel. Plus I don't think I can be bothered pulling the wheel out again for such a minimal improvement, that really I can not see it making a difference.

    I ended up having to play with the front caliper a bit. I ended up tightening the top bolt up fairly firm into the bracket. Then I gave the leaver a pull or two to set the pads. Doing that I was able to determine I needed a thick copper washer between the bracket and caliper to stop it pulling in and wearing the pads unevenly. It now looks eye sweet with the disc very close to centre if not spot on.

    All I need now is to have an extra crank case protector made for the clutch side. Damn new track rules mean that any engine case that has oil inside it needs an additional protective cover in case of a crash. That will be something I need to get made. I'm leaning towards a small piece of checker plate and have it welded up so it can sit in nicely against the engine cover and not look like arse. I just need to find a place that has a small offcut or really small sheet that I can cut and shape and then have it tig welded along the seams. I'm allowed to attach it with sikaflex so that will be easy, I'll glue it straight on the face of the engine.
     
  19. losh1971

    losh1971 Well-Known Member

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    Nothing on the bike in the last week or two but I have now paid my club registration and can soon apply for my race licence. Once I have done that I just need to have the extra cover made for the clutch case. Thinking I will get some ali checker plate from Bunnings. I will try to shape it myself and then have it welded along the seams. Probably be another month before I can start on the cover as I want to spend a few bucks sorting out the sump leak on the ute.
     

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