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Losh's New House Build

Skylarking

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It quite normal to load the frame up (with the roof load) before laying the bricks.

In brick veneer construction the frame holds the bricks in place (via brick ties) so it’s important that the frame be loaded first (so it’s sitting in it’s final position before bricking the walls.
Nah, there is usually a 25mm air gap between the brick skin and the frame and any movement due to shrinkage or whatever can be accommodated easily by the brick ties.

I suspect it’s related to slab curing times and doing the frame and roof first (which doesn’t add much load as compared to the brick skin) so it give it some extra time (a week or so more) to cure that little bit extra....

In my view, they build on the virgin uncurled slab way too early to get em out quick and make some money... but I’m not a construction engineer so it’s just a suspicion on my part...

(ps: hammer a concrete nail into a slab when they normally do the frame and you’ll find it’s easy. Then try and hammer in a concrete nail some three months after the slab is poured and you’ll likely fail, usually you’ll need a Ramsey gun to get em in once the slab is cured...)
 

losh1971

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Been working on the shed wiring over the last week or so. I have run all the cables for the main power points, including a separate line for the 15a to run the compressor. I like to have all the cables nice and tidy so I run the lines through conduit. On the roof purlins I run the cables up through conduit and then along the lip of the top-hat where it has been cable tied.

I have bought six double LED batten lights. They need screwing to the purlins but it's either a two person job with two ladders or scaffolding. The shed is too high to try and keep balance, while almost 3m in the air, on a step ladder. I have cut some plates that will screw to the purlins, the lights can then screw to the two plates.

I might add it was a bit uneasy standing on the very top step of an almost 3m high step ladder, when I had to run the cables and conduit up along the rafters and then over the peak and down the other side. I'm glad the worst of it's over. I reckon I saved probably $800 as it took me near on 10hrs, maybe more to get all the cables run.

I still have to run the cables for the hoist and the 2.5mm for the power points, which will eventually run two roller door motors. I have no idea what size cable the hoist will need, it will either be 2.5mm twin & earth or it will be 4mm. Either way it will be on a separate circuit.

I have an electrician who has run the cable under the ground from the mains. I now need him to wire up some RCD's which I have one 16a and will buy another to keep the cost of materials down. I also have the 10a light circuit RCD. I will get the electrician to supply the breakers for the mains and sub-mains. I'm just hoping he might be ok finishing off the work I started, if not I have two other electricians I know that will be fine with it.
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Deuce

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So a reasonable sized internal access garage for the wife's car?
Seems like it's a bit wider in the back half (to back door) and may possibly have laundry set up back there? Or is that in a separate room.
(no women + laundry jokes intended)
 
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losh1971

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I thought he just posted up a picture of his new brick shed and the tin shelter he posted was his living quarters :D
Brick complex is for the wife and girls, 90% of my time will be in the tin shelter.
 

losh1971

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…. Speaking of sheds, when do we get back to the shed?
Watch this space, shed pics to come once I can pick up the garage equipment and set it up. Need to find someone with a car that can pull the work trailer first, as loaded with tools and equipment it will be around a 1000kg, and too much weight for the wife's Outlander.
 
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