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Losh's Series I SS Ute (AKA Black Thunder).

07GTS

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That's pretty costly. Will 3.9s help before I fork out for another tune? The tuner did mention he wasn't able to sort that problem area. It was way worse. Prior to the tune anything from about 1100 to 1900 was terrible.
I also couldn't idle off and put my foot down before the new tune.
3.9's will help as it will raise up the rpms a little, the tune side there are the few changes that alot dont do or understand so id say it should be able to become better there tune wise its just the cost issue, thats where i like to have the software as u can just make changes ongoing if need be and dosnt matter how long it takes to get right
 

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It was cammed before I bought it. It had a shocking tune done by a big place in Melbourne.
All good.. yeah a bad tune is never good..I was just gonna make a small point. When you mod your car..cam..clutch..turbo etc...they don't drive like a factory one. Its just that simple. You have to change the way you drive it. I know you already know this but I just thought I'd throw it out there. People do stuff to their cars and expect it to still drive like a stock one. Not saying you do of course...just saying. I cammed mine and went with a light flywheel...its a totally different car to drive..I had to change how I drive it. Mines a little boggy at low rpm takeoffs too. Cest la vie. I've gotten used to it and now I just accommodate that fact. Trying to tune it so it drives like a factory one is a huge ordeal and probably unachievable. I just take heart in the fact that once I'm moving it fully flies. Its a matter of managing expectations lol..compromises have to be made. So you need a few more revs to get off the line..meh..no big deal. If factory performance is what you're after put a factory cam back in it...otherwise just give her more squirt and keep smiling my 2c
 

losh1971

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3.9's will help as it will raise up the rpms a little, the tune side there are the few changes that alot dont do or understand so id say it should be able to become better there tune wise its just the cost issue, thats where i like to have the software as u can just make changes ongoing if need be and dosnt matter how long it takes to get right
Yeah, I'd kinda rather save $700 - $800 and put it towards the diff build. That's going to cost me around $2.5k, by the time it freight it to Adelaide and back, and that's no Harrop, that would add another $1,500. Apparently there are complete new builds with 3 9s and Trutrac for $3k, but I can't see that having a Harrop, $1,500, and Motive gears, which are over $500, plus another $165 to have them polished. On top of that it's about $1000 - $1,100 to have it set up. I said no thanks when a local garage told me they could supply one but can't build one, and confirmed there is no one in the North of Tasmania that can do a decent build on a ZF.
 

07GTS

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Yeah, I'd kinda rather save $700 - $800 and put it towards the diff build. That's going to cost me around $2.5k, by the time it freight it to Adelaide and back, and that's no Harrop, that would add another $1,500. Apparently there are complete new builds with 3 9s and Trutrac for $3k, but I can't see that having a Harrop, $1,500, and Motive gears, which are over $500, plus another $165 to have them polished. On top of that it's about $1000 - $1,100 to have it set up. I said no thanks when a local garage told me they could supply one but can't build one, and confirmed there is no one in the North of Tasmania that can do a decent build on a ZF.
yea get the diff done as it may even fix it up as well if the ratio is better for the same take off rpm, the manuals u should be fine for the speed should stay right, the autos have a speed sensor in them which affects the speed when diff or such is changed in those then u have to change the diff ratio in the tune to correct them again, the manuals if u next get a tune get them to also change the tune diff ratio but its not as critical as the auto
 

losh1971

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yea get the diff done as it may even fix it up as well if the ratio is better for the same take off rpm, the manuals u should be fine for the speed should stay right, the autos have a speed sensor in them which affects the speed when diff or such is changed in those then u have to change the diff ratio in the tune to correct them again, the manuals if u next get a tune get them to also change the tune diff ratio but its not as critical as the auto
I'll need to get the speedo corrected as well, so that will be at least $150. I'm not sure who I use for that. I had the speedo fixed by a place who overhauls them and calibrates them. PO had changed the faces on mine and stuffed it it up. Bloke who fixed it did it in under an hour. I assume he is the bloke to correct the speedo for a regear?
 

07GTS

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I'll need to get the speedo corrected as well, so that will be at least $150. I'm not sure who I use for that. I had the speedo fixed by a place who overhauls them and calibrates them. PO had changed the faces on mine and stuffed it it up. Bloke who fixed it did it in under an hour. I assume he is the bloke to correct the speedo for a regear?
see what its like first the manuals should be ok as they use the abs sensors for speed so the diff dosnt change the calibration, its just the autos use the one within the gearbox for speed so they get affected
 

losh1971

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see what its like first the manuals should be ok as they use the abs sensors for speed so the diff dosnt change the calibration, its just the autos use the one within the gearbox for speed so they get affected
Ahhh awesome. I assumed there was a speed sensor somewhere. I won't be changing OD's on the wheels so should be fine then.
 

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So worked out tonight that yep the hard to take off is at the 1300 - 1400 range. Give it enough to get to 1500 no problem and idle off and put the pedal down no problem. Only thing is I'm so used of having around 1300-1400 revs taking off I often get stuck right in that bad spot.
I'm going to need to retrain myself to actually know without looking at the tacho so I can be in the good spot just by feel. But that will take time I guess, even though it sounds easy.

Yeah I hate driving one of my missus cars ( a 2012 Toyota Yaris) , clutch is soo lite ( I'm sure if used enough would get that take up point ) , there's no sound either ( exhaust wise
) to help.
Sooo = so easy to stall .
And this is a bog stock little 4 banger hatch.
Did I mention I hate driving it !!!
Ha Ha Ha = she knows !!!!!!!
 

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That's pretty costly.… The tuner did mention he wasn't able to sort that problem area…
That would be annoying for me.

He’s supposed to be the expert and charges rates appropriately but gives up when there is an issue he’s not familiar with or takes too much time to resolve? Id expect that’s more a mail order tuner mindset :(

Really, he's ‘s been paid for a tune which isn’t quite right as you’ve discovered. If a few degrees of timing in the 1300-1500 range will improve on things as suggested by @07GTS, then your tuner should have another go (at his expense) since it’s his tune which isn’t quite right…

And as he learns more and more, he’ll get a better reputation and ay charge more for his services so it’s not a loss to look after ones customers.
 

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If it was mine I would go look for some lonely slope or two where I could practice 20 stop-starts to get the hang of the beast's idosyncrasy, maybe go back there with the trailer too. Give my self a refresher course now and then. Can't tune all the pig out of that cam, so I'd be trying to learn how to live with it & mange it until the dif is sorted and it's moved (down?) range.
 
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