Losh's VR Ute build thread

[Skydrol]

We do have blokes that are mobile but they may want to do the entire job, because of the risk I could jack up, even though I done most of the work and really have no come back or grounds for a warranty claim.

Well, I see that point too. There are people out there without any scruples.

 

[Vin999]

I wouldn't shave them just skim if forced induction is end goal.Other reason is if comp stays where it is might not need have to tune agai.

The way I see if it stays n/a flat tops + thinner headgasket gets it there...shaving big chunk off heads to get decent comp means $$$ to machine heads then manifold to suit & probably pushrods to get rocker geometry correct again.
More coin again for a tune.


Buick are very low comp....almost ideal from factory to turbo.
Turbo the buick or bolt in l67.

Ported heads by good porter will get you some midrange torque but iirc dyno session told you manifold is already restricting what you have.


Reckon you should prepping engine for boost...good headgasket,arp stud kit or headbolts & springs but first hassle delcowizard for advice/recipe so you know what direction to go,parts required & keep to a budget.


You'll see why v8 conversion looks so simple in comparison lol

Good advice there, so simple and explained well, some people get to confused with all the options and forget its the sum of the parts and sometimes less is more,
hopefully losh will see your wisdom or he might just drop a standard LS1 and surprise everyone or even the 304 he seems to rubbish a bit

 

[gtrboyy]

Value for money ls1 conversion got slaughtered corona
For months I was too lazy to go buy $1500 ls1/auto setup from wreckers....had choice of 3-4....all gone grrrr
Only 3k-4k or higher ebay ripoffs left if any.

It's fairly easy to get ripped off or blow a budget sky high.

 

[losh1971]

Decided I might as well replace the water pump gasket. Just stopped for a coffee. 10 mins to get it off 7 mins to clean the pump and bolts up and probably 10 mins to reinstall. Yet it will take me an hour to bleed the air out....... lol... I pulled the rad filter yesterday and the screen had some hard black particles. Probably 20 particles that were caught in the fine screen. Glad I have it installed. Only thing I'd say is buy the bigger one, the outlets on the rad are used to determine the size of the filter but the top hose ID is way bigger than the rad inlet and outlets. I think I need a different oring for the cap too, as there often seems to be a drop or three on the chassis rail in the engine bay.

 

[losh1971]

Ute is all back together, and I've bled out as much air as I can. using a fizzy cordial bottle shoved in the rad neck. I am now cooling it down for a few hours so I can check the resi level and see if it needs filling after it draws down. I noticed the tensioner jumping slightly, like about 1-2mm arrow movement but after 10 mins it stopped jumping. Bit of silicone spray on the belt might have helped too. It seems to be something it does when the belt gets wet or worse with coolant on it. Seems odd it settles down, I would have thought a jumping tensioner would not settle down and work as it should by simply waiting 10 mins. I'd consider changing it but it's a little less tight than original one. A new replacement might be too tight on the WP bearing and cause me to need a seventh new WP.

 

[VS_Pete]

Anthony you ran the heater fully open?

 

[losh1971]

Anthony you ran the heater fully open?

Yes.

 

[afstruct]

Need to decide whether boost or not or simply shave heads for na and then get more heads if boosting later.

 

[losh1971]

Need to decide whether boost or not or simply shave heads for na and then get more heads if boosting later.

I have spare heads, so yeah could go boost and refit current heads after a quick reco. Although it's looking like boost is big money as there are no simple bolt on's like you have with an Eco. Too hard to make M62 work and cost verses benefit I have been told by a pretty knowledgeable member re Buick's, is it's simply not worth the effort.

I may just end up with N/A. It goes pretty well even the way is. Hoping heads will give me another 15rwkw. I should get away with current tune staying N/A. Might need a bored TB though. I have some slight restriction on the intake side and am thinking it must be the 65mm TB. Unless it's the manifold and that could be tricky to get done right, especially if it gives me gains at 5k but lose low - mid.....

 

[afstruct]

I have no doubt that which ever way you go you'll not be disappointed.
They both have advantages and minisous , just comes back to use and preferences