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Losh's VR Ute build thread

Vin999

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Not sure how good the auto electricians are near you but every time I have used one they are not God of car electricals. They know more than the average garage sure, on electrical gremlins but diagnosing intermittent issues is not an easy task even for someone with such skills. If it's a common issue they can sort it but when the problem comes and goes there is not magic tool that you run over the entire car that tells you every problem there is...... Yep the old ute has had some dodgy work done by PO's and I am getting to the stage where I have fixed most of the botched up work.
As mentioned, I am planning on taking the ute to an auto electrician as I want to see if they can just replace some of the lead cables, which have frayed near the plugs. I have had auto electricians do similar repairs to this in the past, with success. I'm just not sure if the shop near work is happy to do that, or if they will tell me they have to build a whole new harness at a hugely expensive cost. If not I have another bloke who did some decent work for me before, just not close to work.
However, this is not something I can get done in the next couple of months, I have major dental over the next three months and a shed sitting on the ground that needs to go up, before it gets damaged. But unfortunately the old ute cost me 17hrs more labour just before Christmas than the bloke said he would take, it was supposed to take six..... So it has placed me in a pickle and now I have to pay at least another $250 this week getting the ute running.
It is on the list of places to take the ute to, but it's unlikely going to get there before the middle of the year now as I have too much going out over the next few months. Chuck on top of that a bill at the auto electrician's that can't be quoted is not something I can do right now but it will get there eventually..... Worst case scenario is I catch the bus if the ute breaks down again..
Hey I get where your coming from with the life issues and extra expenses, and the situation of breaking down in remote places with erratic car problem/s from nursing/driving older cars, after all we all don't drive around in lastest model cars but sometimes a mechanic just does quick mechanical fixes to get you going and make some money and not waste his time, but when it comes to electrical and sensors well you need a qualified electrical person in efi systems.

Yes we have allsorts here just like in your situation, miles apart......I have 2 auto electricans that I use on occasions for real difficult do your head in issues, usually after my knowledge/efforts don't resolve/fix issues. One is a nearly retired old school small workshop who I use for minor generic issues and the other one is a modern workshop with all the fancy gear that are trained in electronic/fuel management and prefer to work on more modern cars and are very very pricey, I used them a few times with the conversions for some electrical gremlins with certain non standard setups and I paid dearly for the fix as it was worth it, but for normal standard factory stuff the other older electricitian does the job and is more price friendly.

So don't get me wrong, sometimes you have to pay a lot for certain other people, where your local mechanic just can't fix or wont, or just doesnt know how to solve your same continuing issues. Nowadays it is what it is with older holdens and everyone is in the same boat now or in the very soon future as life and things have changed from the good old days no matter where you live to reflect the 5 letter dirty word @Money, the root of all things including the best 3 letter word @sex. Welcome to the new world where nobody gives a farck unless you pay $.

Good thing is at least you didnt buy a $50K Ls whore and went to put on a $10K plus blower and have issues and the workshop wants more money to touch and fix issues they said wouldn't happen if you spent that amount with them. Imagine how those guys in that position feel about spewing having a credit card debt over $10K with a farqked running car with heaps of kw power and the speed limit is just their 1st gear/multiple speeding tickets, so really your situation is not so bad after all and quite manageable compared to what others have spent and dealing with.
 

Fu Manchu

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Might be time I revisit the extra ground strap for the DFI. I tried to buy one from a wreck but no VN to VYs at the wreckers had one. I will buy some cable and make one.
I want to buy a VT DFI mount plate so I can fit the L moulding. Might as well fit the extra ground at the same time.
I did that on my VP. Was happy enough with it.
 

Skydrol

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That's why I never clean my engines and leave the dirt, oil and grease to form a protective layer.
I do clean my engines to remove all the contaminants, so far, no much drama on any of my cars. The key is how to clean it.
 

losh1971

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WTF is Delphi Technologies????????????

Delphi branded stuff I've been getting is red/white logo on black background...only says "Delphi" Made in USA(?)
All Delphi and Delco sensors are made in China now. Mate looked up ACDelco for me, as I was thinking to go gen and all made China now.
 

losh1971

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Can still find parts if got decent supplier...if it becomes NLA they'll usually have or find backup brand with warranty or end end with shite reputation workshops won't deal with.

GM screwed Holden over many years ago making them double/triple price of parts to help relieve debts....before that happen I used to buy everything I could from Holden Dealerships with trade/business discounts then go pick up at storage warehouse nearby.Feels like a different lifetime now.
All Delphi and Delco sensors are made in China now. Mate looked up ACDelco for me, as I was thinking to go gen and all made China now.
Apologies mate, mate looked at different Delco part and made an error but it looks like he can get me a Gen TPS, apparently made in the US, at a reasonable price. So I have said I will get one off him.
 

gtrboyy

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I've never used or seen 'Delphi Technologies' it's definately not branded or logo like 'Delphi' gear that I use...lots of junk out there.

If someone brought me junk brands to fix their car I'd tell them to fit it themselves or throw it at them lol
 

losh1971

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I've never used or seen 'Delphi Technologies' it's definately not branded or logo like 'Delphi' gear that I use...lots of junk out there.

If someone brought me junk brands to fix their car I'd tell them to fit it themselves or throw it at them lol
Garages here in Launceston use Burson or Repco for parts and both stores sell junk Chinese parts. Probably out of the same factory as the one I supplied.
One thing is for sure it's not the same box as the one in the photo on the seller's listing. They use Delphi label on top of package.
 

losh1971

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Went to the wrecker today. I had hoped to get a bracket or plate to make the DFI L trim from a later model fit. Having looked at a VT unfortunately it's not simple, as the way it bolts to the head is totally different, as is the bracket itself. Shame because it would have made the DFI look a little tidier.
 

losh1971

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So today I removed the DFI mounting plate and wire wheeled the plate on both sides. I also emery sanded the bracket on top and around the bolt holes underneath. I managed to get shiny metal on most of the square bolts that secure the plate and scratched the recess out where they sit in the DFI plate. Next step is to make a ground cable and either run it to the same bolt on the manifold that my other ground is or just run it to another manifold bolt closer to the DFI. Haven't decided which way to go?

I also have changed all three coils. I had three Gorst hi performance coils on a while back but when the post burnt and broke off I replaced it with a SH coil, which was in good nic. I don't know if the Gorst coils could be causing problems but I wanted to rule them out, especially considering one coil completely died and most likely took out the DFI at the same time. I've just lost my confidence in the Gorst coils now, because of that one that went the way it did and I want to eliminate them from the equation.

I still have have a set of plugs and leads to throw in, which I was expecting the mech who fitted the heads to pop on while everything was apart, regardless of the condition. The leads are a few years old now and the plugs probably have 20-25k on them. Because the plugs at the back of the head are a bit fiddly I might leave them in until I feel enthusiastic about swapping them out.
 

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Don't know if it's any help or if you think it would end up making things worse due to melting in the heat, but you don't need a lot - just a thin film will do. When I worked building electrical substations we would put vaseline on the mating surfaces of the copper bus bars, for two reasons. It is conductive and it reduces oxidisation (by not allowing air to get between the surfaces) and guarantees a long-lasting conductive joint at the mating coated surfaces. I have always put it on the HT battery/lead/starter terminal joints since. And wipe away any excess with dry paper or rag after tightening the joint.

*edit* I never use in plugs or clips, only on surfaces that can be tightened with a screw or bolt.
 
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