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Discussion in 'VR - VS Holden Commodore (1993 - 1997)' started by losh1971, Nov 11, 2017.
I bought mine second hand off eBay, for 15 bucks.
Another problem solved in about 10 mins, i now have working cruise again. If only every problem and repair was as easy as that one tonight was......
What solved the problem?
Replaced the cruise cancelation switch. The threads on mine had stripped, meaning it was slipping in and out.
Confirmed my booking for the 10th to have a stiifer spring fitted to the valve body today. Also while he is there i am getting a larger boost valve fitted. In two minds about going down the route of Corvette servo as the tech said its probably not worth the expense, as far as upgrades go and normally do this if undertaking a rebuild. Since i dont have to drop the pan its something I can consider down the track. Im not sure what is involved or id think about replacing it myself. I reckon the y pipe is in the way, so bit of mucking around, i think.
Just about to head out to Perth to pick up the ute from the trans tech. I had him fit a HD valve body spring and larger boost valve as well as a service. Pretty common for these trans to have valve body issues that can cause slow TC lockup, therefore the heavier spring should take care of that. Not real sure how a larger boost valve will help but it was recommended by JC members and the trans tech also said it is worthwhile. I'm not sure if I will notice any improvement in changes but at least the upgrades will help extend the life of the trans that was in pretty good shape for its age regardless. Trans tech reckons it is not the original trans the ute came out with. Not sure how he knows that but something must be changed from the one it came out with from the factory. I'm a bit nervous on what the bill will be. I really hope the price is under $350 but Id say that is unlikely.
Well some good things, i found out that a previous person had actually reamed the valve body and fitted the heavy duty spring. That probably explains why i wasn't getting any slip whn the TC lockup occurred. Would have been good to know that before he removed the valve body but guess there was no way of knowing until he did. Bill was bigger than I hoped. Damn extractor Y pipe had to come off to get the pan off and it will be the same for every service from now on.... At least i can now get away with 50k services since the DX 3 should be now mostly swapped to full syn. Ended up costing $420. Not sure if I will have the servo piston upgraded this week or not now. Have to figure that one out in tbe next day or two.
Quick update just drove 50km home and most of that 100kph zones. Well I thought it seemed to be smoother but not really knowing what a decent boost valve actually does, I just read up and yeah smoother gear change are what they say I should expect. It's actually really smooth but I wasn't sure if I was just imagining it or if indeed it was smoother but the info on the net confirmed what I thought.
Good news, my boss got approval from upstairs to have me work yesterday and today in the arvo, not just the morn. Looks like the new servo is still getting fitted at the mech's workshop tomorrow.
It's awesome. and not as hard as it seems.
Bit of an update. For some time, like two years I have had a fume smell in the cab. Worked on it today but found out that I needed three different size hoses that wasn't mentioned in any thread I could find. Unfortunately I only bought 13mm and 5mm but I also needed a metre of 8mm. I mentioned in another thread that it turns out that the charcoal canister breather has two different size outlets, meaning you can not use the recommended 5mm as the line under the floor is actually 8mm. I now have to figure out how to adapt the 8mm to reduce down to 5mm to fit on the filler neck.
Why Holden would use two different size outlets is beyond me, just doesn't make sense. The other issue is the 5mm pipe on the filler neck sticks straight out which causes the hose to kink, so I found today when I tore everything down, Which I suspect may have been the cause of the fumes. Not only was it not sealing on the neck because it was too big, it was also kinked.
I had to leave the job with the tank tipped up on an angle and not bolted in. I drove it with the tonneau cover thrown over the illegally thrown in tank to see if the hardware store had anything I could use as an reducing elbow, but they had nothing.
Thinking now since the only way to find a reducing elbow is going to be to have one made. So I am thinking and hoping to find some 5mm clear hose that will slip over the tube on the filler neck and also be a neat fit or close to neat inside the 8mm. I just need to make the hose 1100mm instead of 900mm. That way I can place a big curve in the pipe so it doesn't kink again. I was hoping that the job would have been all sorted this arvo but I need to make another trip to Total Rubber, which is on the other side of the city. I will have to catch two buses each way tomorrow after work as I can not risk the tank just flopping around in the cavity. 1, I could get pulled over & defected and 2 the ute could run out of fuel since the tank is sitting all cocked up in the cavity. Also could be dangerous if I was "T Boned" fuel could leak everywhere, causing a fire.
Plan is to get the tank all working properly tomorrow arvo. I have decided that I will leave the tub liner out for a while as I want to respray the tub rails as the paint is cracked up.
The different diameter hoses might have been necessary because the fuel entering the canister is both liquid and fumes but the return to the tank is just liquid. ((this is just a theory. I really don't know the answer).
You should be able to get a 8mm to 5mm tube adapter in Tassie or order online and then use a 8mm or 5mm elbow.
Thanks mate, I went to Burson's this morning and they have the same thing in plastic. I have come up with an idea. I am going to use the 1.2m of 5mm I have and run it down to underneath the tank. Then I will use the adapter plus a short 100mm length of 8mm to make it fit over the canister hard line. The 5mm is not subject to kinking like the 8mm is and if I put a wide bend in the hose, on the filler neck it should be just fine. This saves me a fair bit by not needing to purchase more hose.
Dont forget to re-route your breather outside of the fuel tank well. I have a hole cut in the rear drivers side corner of the fuel tank well with a rubber grommet and ran the breather down and along the brake lines to just past the diff. This eliminates all fumes from entering the cab.
Not sure what you mean @MR.HG if I reroute a breather then I would need to blank off one end as they all go designated spots. Are you saying blank off the canister hard line and just run the one on the neck to say behind the diff? I'm happy to be wrong but wouldn't the original set up with properly sealed pipes be just fine, no vapour smell?
There should be a half inch ID rubber line that doesn't go anywhere, it could be from the filler neck (little elbo) or the main junction where your pump screws into the tank, but the hose itself doesn't connect to anything except sit loose in the fuel tank well. It's a breather or overflow but from memory both canister lines go to the tank?
The 15mm yeah that has a spot on the neck and on the tank as it is a breather and overflow for filling. I only have one line going to the canister, the other two are, return line (I think) and main fuel line.
Just about finished replacing the breather lines on the ute. I ended up needing clamps as they were all missing. Paid too much as i went to Bursons. In the end i used a reducing joiner down low with two clamps. I run a short length of 8mm plus a long length of 5mm. I put a wide bend in the top so that it won't kink. I'm just one hose clamp short, as the old one was a thin squeeze clamp and it was a mongrel to remove. Gonna head to the hardware this arvo and grab a worm drive one. Hopefully from now on i won't have any fume smell in the cab when the tank is full or almost full. At the moment I have a 7/16 socket wedged in the big breather to stretch it, so that it goes on easier, as i had to buy 13mm, couldn't get 15mm.
Tank breathers are all done. New Gates water pump is now on and system bled. Here's hoping this time the pump will last longer than 14 months. Tool box back on. At some stage i need to paint the tub side rails. Need to do that before i refit the liner. Last three days i have been to the mechanics workshop hoping the hoist is free. Keep getting told try tomorrow. I want him to see where i am leaking oil. I would like to get the sump done if it is and i think i will get the mech to do the job. I believe it is just a matter of undoing the mounts from underneath and hoisting up the engine enough to slip the sump out. I may have another crank seal leak so might pay the 50 bucks and get that done too. What i really want to do before anything though is fill the tank to the top of the neck and see if i still have fuel stink. Might have to wait until i get paid next week, dunno.
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