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Losh's VR Ute build thread

Discussion in 'VR - VS Holden Commodore (1993 - 1997)' started by losh1971, Nov 11, 2017.

  1. vc commodore

    vc commodore Well-Known Member

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    Last V6 sump gasket I did, I dropped the K-frame and supported the engine with an engine crane.....Gave me heaps of room to remove and re-fit the sump with a new gasket.....Took me about 6 hours stuff assing round....If I was quicker I reckon I could have had it done in about 2 to 3 hours at home
     
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  2. losh1971

    losh1971 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks VC good to know it can be done in around 3hrs. For that money I will probably get it done.

    On another note I went for a trip to the self serve wreckers. They have a column VS wagon in there. A few months back I grab part of the dash fascia that holds in the stereo and controls surround. I went back to get the surround and bugger some bastard must have seen it and bought it. Was a bit short at the time and only grabbed the part I really needed as I have a surround that is pretty good, just not perfect, like this one was. Because I missed out on that I had enough money in my wallet to pick up these Stato sun visors, in cloth trim to match my door trims. While I was there i wanted to grab the sill scuff plate off the column wagon but on the wagon they are full length throgh to the back. Don't know if they can be cut down or not and still look good? 20190110_171750.jpg
     
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  3. vs-lover

    vs-lover Well-Known Member

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    Hi Losh,

    That's the first VR ute I've seen with a toilet in the back ????:confused:


    I must admit I also felt that it was merely about lifting the engine off the K-Frame which gave one enough room to slip the sump out and reseal it to replace.
     
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  4. losh1971

    losh1971 Well-Known Member

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    The mech said that's all he needs to do. But I will confirm with him when I can finally get it up on his hoist to confirm that the sump is leaking. Or if it's just the RM and crank seal.
     
  5. vs-lover

    vs-lover Well-Known Member

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    They're pretty notorious for Sump and Rear Main Seal to start spewing oil everywhere as they are all at that age now. Surprisingly the Harmonic Balancer Seals are normally not that common to let go. The sumps are the mongrels.
     
  6. losh1971

    losh1971 Well-Known Member

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    It's only a weep from the crank seal. TBH I am not even 100% convinced the oil is coming from the seal as I did replace it when I fitted a new balancer a couple of years ago. I need an expert opinion, hence trying to get it up on the mech's hoist. It could be the front of the sump leaking. Pretty confident the rear main is leaking but it's only a weep. Still thinking about slipping the trans out myself and tackling that one. Just a tad concerned I might not be able to rattle the flex plate bolts off with only my CP air rattle gun. Also not sure how to set the seal as it needs a special tool I don't have nor know what it is called. Gun will undo the bolts but the compressor needs more pressure than 120psi to really get the max out of the gun. Decent battery gun would be the go but I have a damn expensive air one so not keen on spending 500 bucks on a battery one. Good thing is if the trans comes out I can fit the servo, replace the front trans seal and RM all at once along with greasing the unis on the tail-shaft. I tried greasing them a few weeks ago and realised the uni needs to be almost 90deg to fit the grease gun on the nipples.
     
  7. Wozza

    Wozza Well-Known Member

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    losh1971 and Lex like this.
  8. MR.HG

    MR.HG Donating Member

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    You can cut the sill scuff from a wagon to suit, even from a sedan, just be careful removing because the plastic clips are brittle these days. Best to remove the rubber insert entirely first.
     
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  9. vs-lover

    vs-lover Well-Known Member

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    What's wrong with good ol' fashioned Sidchrome spanners ??

    I've never used a rattle gun on anything apart from Front Strut top nuts.
     
  10. losh1971

    losh1971 Well-Known Member

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    How do you lock the engine to undo the flex plate bolts?
     
  11. MR.HG

    MR.HG Donating Member

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    Many ways mate. You can put a spanner on one bolt to hold the flex plate while you undo the rest then jam a screwdriver into a hole on the outer diameter where the torque converter bolts on to the flex plate to get the last one or you could use a breaker bar with a pipe extension on the harmonic balancer to hold the crank in place.
     
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  12. vs-lover

    vs-lover Well-Known Member

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    What he said !!





    I can't believe anyone would require a rattle gun to undo a Flexplate to Torque Converter bolt.

    Now if you were talking Harmonic Balancer bolt then I'd agree with you, but it'll have to be a strong one to undo 300 Nm which is really tight.
    Not quite sure why they do it that tight as I've never done one back up to the same, in saying that I've never had one come back loose.

    200 Nm should surely be enough.
     
  13. losh1971

    losh1971 Well-Known Member

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    All of the above sounds like i need two people. As for the rattle gun it would probably undo 300nm if I had 130psi from the comp. It won't tighten to that though, reverse is always stronger than tightening. My gun got the HB bolt off no worries. When i tightened it i just had the comp on 110psi and rattled it for 15 seconds. I finally got the ute up on the hoist and the mech couldn't confirm where the leak is. He is going to remove the lower cover and have a look at the main. Chances are it is leaking from the main. He said 4hrs trans in and out and new seals all round. Was thinking of doing it myself but I don't really want the hassle.
     
  14. MR.HG

    MR.HG Donating Member

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    Not at all mate, you can hold the flex plate with one spanner on a nut while you ratchet the rest. Someone once told me "with a big enough bar you could lever the world" hence the breaker bar with a pipe over the handle method. Put the 3/4 (from memory) socket on the balancer bolt, attach the breaker bar with a pipe over the handle and support the handle with some stacked up bricks(if your working on the ground) so the pipe is resting under the drivers side chassis rail. This will hold the balancer while you apply opposite force to remove the flex plate bolts.
    On a side note.... to remove a stubborn balancer bolt simply use the same setup (breaker bar with leverage pipe) but place the end of the pipe on the ground on the passenger side with a chock under the end (so the end of the bar doesn't dig in) remove spark plug leads and crank the engine.
     
  15. vs-lover

    vs-lover Well-Known Member

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    Hi HG,

    You don't have to remove the spark plugs, just pull out the EFI relay and that disables any spark or computer activity.

    By the way all the Holden dealers always used the cranking method to crack loose the HB bolt. Must admit I personally have never been a great fan of this method as it puts a high load on the starter but I've been assured that it's not that much of a struggle on the poor old Bosch unit underneath.
     
  16. the_boozer

    the_boozer no more VK

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    To add to the above I asked my mate the other day about undoing the hb bolt with the starter, we now have a small strong rattle gun to do it but before he got that he reckons hes done over a 100 with the starter motor and never killed a starter motor doing it. The cheap rattle gun I have would never undo the hb bolt the few Ive done at home was with the starter motor.
     
  17. deserthead

    deserthead Well-Known Member

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    Agreed with all the above. Pull the Fuel Pump/EFI relay. Breaker bar resting on the chassis rail and just hit the starter. I've done this a few times and its cracked first go everytime!
     
  18. vs-lover

    vs-lover Well-Known Member

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    It's all about leverage and the longer the lever the easier it is to do. If it was much easier to lock up the flexplate / Flywheel then all one would have to do is attach a 4 foot pole over the breaker bar and you could do it by hand. That's the power of leverage I guess.
     
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  19. gtrboyy

    gtrboyy Well-Known Member

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    It's an old ute...let it be an old ute with character.

    The vp ute was similar except poor sod lived a hard life,smallest weep that looked like sump gasket...degreased everything spotless & it would take months before seeing oil drop on ground.Rinse/repeat ;)

    Sometimes just except old jalopy will never be 100%

    *steering rack was cursed with leaks despite being reco unit from grrrrr
     
  20. losh1971

    losh1971 Well-Known Member

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    Yeah but I really want to fit the Vette Servo and the other day the mech showed me how there is no way enough room to extract it with the trans in place. Even dropping the trans won't give it enough room. I only have 2" of space between the body and the trans.
     

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