Something I noticed today was the notchy left door has been sorted. I wonder if removing the reo bar has helped release some tension? Because even a few days ago it still had a little notchiness on the catch.
Which is why it can be helpful to carefully look at how the forces were applied to crumple the front, then pull it in the opposite direction before anything much is dismantled from the car.
With carefully pulling in the correct direction, not too much to over stretch things, you’d be surprised how much can be straighten up across multiple complex panels... If you disassemble, then these complex parts must be individually straightened (which isn’t as easy).
The real trick is to determine where to pull and in what direction. For example, if the front impact was just below the passenger headlight and pushing up towards the driver head, that gives you an imaginary line of force... Pulling opposite along this imaginary line, from below the headlight will do wonders...
I’m no panel beater but have used such methods on 2 lightly damaged cars as a temporary fix until they could be correctly fixed by professionals. The results were great and both friends were very pleased. One in particular was hardly noticeable to the guy who previously restored it (the paint had cracked in one location on the front fender which was the only obvious sign)
In your particular case, you also need to look at the rear suspension mounting points as they may have copped a whack during your 10/10 pirouette routine... Don’t just focus on the front