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Discussion in 'VR - VS Holden Commodore (1993 - 1997)' started by losh1971, Nov 11, 2017.
Hey losh, I've had excellent results with "jiff" to clean perspex and plastics....
Jiff ?????? that's an aggressive abrasive that will leave nothing more than a finely scratched surface.
If you've ever seen what Jiff does to paintwork you'll know what I mean.
You need a product with diminishing abrasives, Toothpaste was regularly used by the Air Force in the days when they had Perspex canopies on their aircraft.
Once you have buffed perspex or polycarbonate, to remove big scratches and such, keeping it clean and dust free is much easier with Plexus Cleaner which was developed for use in the aircraft industry.
It comes in a spray can which you simply spray on and lightly wipe or polish off. You can buy Plexus from most motorcycle shops (many riders use it on their visors).
The great thing about Plexus is it fills the micro scratches often seen but impossible to buff out using fine buffing compounds. It also repels dust and seems to be good at reducing fogging.
I used it on my motorcycle helmet visor and ski goggles and it worked a treat.
I still use it on filling the fine scratches on DVDs allowing them to play when they wouldn’t play before the clean/polish. And I still use it in my car, on the radio display and instrument cluster clear plastic cover. In particular, the radio display is scratched and cleaning it with plexus returns it to new looking and it lasts for many months before I reapply.
A large 13oz or 368g can costs $40 but lasted near on a decade.
Now there is also a clone of Plexus, which is cheaper, but I can’t remember the name of it.
I have nothing to do with the manufacturer, distributor or anyone who sells the stuff. I’m just a fan of it. Obviously YMMV.
Plexus is good stuff. I was introduced to that by a neighbour of mine that uses it on Polycarbonate headlights, it works a treat there.
I generally use various polishing mops on my polishing machine. The last wheel I use is a "Swansdown" wheel which if used correctly will get perspex absolutely Crystal clear, then to finish off I've always used a Meguiars Plastic Cleaner and then their polish using a soft cotton tee shirt material to finish off by hand. It all depends though on how critical I am and what the job actually en-tales.
Thinking I will cut a new lense mine has chip in the corner that if I turn it up with the black strip at the bottom it's barely noticeable. I did fill it with epoxy but now the scratches are really noticeable, I am thinking it's too exi buying the polish I need, and I'm better off making a new one. Was hoping the guillotine at work might cut the 1.5mm acrylic but am yet to try but I think I need a hacksaw blade with a handle on it. Trouble is my cutting tools are in my shed, almost 2hrs away. I have thin curf blade and an angle grinder but wondering if it will melt the edge.
Know the place well.....I asked him a question via his ebay site about 3 months ago and still waiting for an answer to this day....So his service isn't the best through ebay anyway
"Jiff " is perfect for plexiglass, clear plastics, headlights, and dirt bike plastics.....
It's one of those products that sound wrong to use, but work with brilliant results.... Like toothpaste!!!
We'll have agree to disagree
That's fine!!! No Biggie..
It works superbly on everything I've used it on...
Try it, surprised the hell outa me...
And my headlights, old kx tank n plastics
Hz dash screen lenses... My X5 dash screen... Ect...
Maybe I did it wrong bu I tried some jiff on a headlight and it didn't work out to well for me
Works best with machine buff...
Yeah, there are very specific polycarbonate plastic polishes.
More expensive and harder to get lexon = way more manufacturing/ working friendly.
Can drill holes without fear of cracking, can heat and bend = sooo much more durable.
That might be the issue. It's on my list of wants One day.
Seller refunded $25. I was happy enough with that, that i didn't try and argue to maybe sqeeze another 10 or 15 bucks, or risk getting nothing without returning the parts that i already have installed.
Oops... typed my post and then got distracted and ipad was put away so didn’t hit the “post reply” button until now... we’ll after the fact... oh well, posting it now
Acrylic sheeting is known as Perspex or Plexiglass.
Polycarbonate sheeting is known as Makrolon (earlier it was called Merlon) and Lexan.
I haven't heard of lexon so i assume its just a typo
Polycarbonate sheeting has 30% greater impact strength than Acrylic sheeting.
It can be cold formed, drilled and bent unlike acrylic sheeting.
And just like your headlights, which are made of polycarbonate sheeting, the stuff goes yellow with lots of UV light.
But both scratch easily and are a pain to polish so no scratches are evident with glancing light (though plexus works a treat at fixing such).
If i was making a clear lens for a gear selector, i'd use thin polycarbonate sheeting which can be cut with scissors. Heck, i'd pop by a roofing place and see it they had some flat clear sheet offcuts they could give me just so I could give it a try
Will have a go at using Jiff as a plastic poish next some plastic needs buffing
I have some clear 1.5mm sheet coming in the mail. It will be enough for 20 covers, if it scratches i will cut a new one. Gonna try the guillotine at work or i will wait until the weekend and cut it at home.
Gulliotine cut the plastic but it cracked as well. Looking like next attempt will be the grinder and a thin curf blade. I'd like to have it finished tomorrow if i can. But might end up being a job for the weekend.
Yeah, you wouldn't cut glass using a guillotine.
And Perspex is glass like in some respects where as Polycarbonate sheeting (laserlight roofing) can be cut using using such a tool
Try a good Stanley knife and a straight edge. You’ll need to make a few passes to get a good clean cut.
Try aviation tin snips, a hacksaw blade or cut it slightly oversize using a grinder with a thin cut off wheel and trim back with the face of the wheel.
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