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Losh's VR Ute build thread

Discussion in 'VR - VS Holden Commodore (1993 - 1997)' started by losh1971, Nov 11, 2017.

  1. losh1971

    losh1971 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks Fu. I think i will go with trimmed in carpet. I think it will exactly what i need. Plan is to first paint the tub out with Hippo in a whiteish colour or Rhino depending on what I can get locally. I will velcro it down so it doesn't move.

    I have a question for those in the know though. My tailgate sits in slightly on the drivers side. Is there any adjustment that can push it out or will it be a matter of packing the hinge with a plate? I'd say it's had a knock on that corner at one point. I looked for adjustment but I can not see any and am wondering if I need to shim it. Will just mean getting a shim plate made.
    20191231_193226.jpg
     
  2. Fu Manchu

    Fu Manchu Well-Known Member

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    5B57792A-0DAD-48F4-8E3E-2E0840BD2D73.jpeg
    This is in my Crewman.
     
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  3. Fu Manchu

    Fu Manchu Well-Known Member

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    That’s because the bumperette has been pushed in, forcing the top bit out. You can bet the tail gate is fine. Maybe heat up the bumperette and reshape it.
     
  4. losh1971

    losh1971 Well-Known Member

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    Yes that's what i needed a photo of one already done. I will definitely go with a carpet base now, over the top of Hippo coating.
     
  5. losh1971

    losh1971 Well-Known Member

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    The tailgate sits in at all the way along that side. It also sits lower than the corner moulding. Plus the tailgate sits in from the edge of the tail light.
     
  6. losh1971

    losh1971 Well-Known Member

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    Picked up a tailgate rail today. Self serve wrecker is overcharging lately. Every time they get a new bloke in the prices are like Town prices, where you paying labor to have it removed.
    I sorta wanted the whole tail gate but was happy i could just get the rail, because the rest of it was fairly banged up. Bloke started out at 50 but accepted 30. I was prepared to pay 50 if he wouldn't budge because I was looking at least 100 to get mine repaired. Wish I had my equipment close by, plus some paint on hand as i would loved to have fitted it today. 20200104_135950.jpg
     
  7. losh1971

    losh1971 Well-Known Member

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    While I was there i was hoping to get some striker plates for the tailgate as mine are damaged. Wrecker only had one and it was a Series III so they are not the same as VR. Shame because they are a hard to find item. My only option may be to have mine welded up and ground back. Trouble is the type of alloy could have too much magnesium and may not weld properly.
    I mentioned taking off my corner mouldings to have them professionally painted but another look and it looks like a rub in 2 spots and a quick blow and they will be fine. So I'm going to fix up the marks myself but with the moulding on the car as its easier to wet rub and touch up with them bolted down, just means masking up.
     
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  8. Fu Manchu

    Fu Manchu Well-Known Member

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    If I recall, the striker plates are the same as used on Falcon utes. (Like the interior light being a Ford stamped part) Might help when looking.

    I'd like to get one of those hydraulic crimpers to do up a new cable for the tail gate. Do one in stainless braided cable. Would look nice. Use battery terminal connections on the end so it has an eyelet.

    Might be an idea for your ride?
     
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  9. losh1971

    losh1971 Well-Known Member

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    No photos as I forgot to take a before shot. But I had about 10 or 12 drill holes just below the rear window. I thought about having them welded up but was concerned about the potential for rust later down the track. Ended up knocking the holes in and skimming some bog over them. Etch primed and then primed with regular primer ready for next weekend when I will head home and blow in some and maybe a couple of coats of clear. I am just about ready to paint out the tub with some urethane but that may not happen for two weeks as I don't want to spend any of my savings for my shed. I need to wire wheel a couple of spots in the tub and etch them as well as prime but I want to wait until SCA has some pressure cans of acrylic on sale again as I only need a little bit and it's easy to just to blow a bit in with a pressure can even if I am in town.
    I am just unsure about what colour I will get the urethane in as I can get it tinted to most colours. I have seen it in a beige colour and that looked ok but it was on an old HJ with a beige paint job. May just end up with Alaskan White but I'd be keen to try another slightly different colour if I thought it would look good.
     
  10. losh1971

    losh1971 Well-Known Member

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    So with the dramas of not having the ute for a month while it was engine getting 1/2 the engine rebuilt, i now have an oil leak at the back of the engine. I wasn't necessarily going to worry but the mech said bring it in and he will remove the dish pan and see where the leak is. Looks like he may end up pulling the trans out to have the leak fixed. Hopefully its only a few days without transport and not two weeks.
     
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  11. Skylarking

    Skylarking Well-Known Member

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    My experience (from years back) was that knocking holes in and filling with bog can still lead to rust down the track. Moisture can still attack the rear of the metal (hole edge) and it even enters the bog from the rear. So rust can still occur unless the rear side of the repair is well sealed with paint (which I guess can be a problem in some places).

    Maybe today’s bog is much better, I don’t know... but food for thought (or constructive comments from others).

    PS: Like what your doing with the Ute :)
     
  12. losh1971

    losh1971 Well-Known Member

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    Yeah bog can still attract moisture. Hopefully it lasts a long time.
     
  13. afstruct

    afstruct Well-Known Member

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    I'm pretty sure bog is poreis as is primer except some 2 packs ( I believe) .
    So unless done in a controlled environment with finishing = with top coat = is always a little susceptible, especially if mixing a hot, go off quicker mix.
     
  14. losh1971

    losh1971 Well-Known Member

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    I have found the ute to be pretty good at not getting rusty, unlike my old LX and HX. I find with more modern vehicles it tends to be where water pools or dirt accumulates and traps moisture that causes rust. Ute has some rust forming on the lowest part of the tailgate on the folded seam. I have to get the sandblaster out and remove it. But it really means taking off the tailgate or the abrasive ends up everywhere. Might need to rope in the neighbour to help me get it off and on again when i blast and paint it.
     
  15. 1985VK

    1985VK Well-Known Member

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    The abrasive media goes everywhere and is a big the problem with sand blasters when they do not have a recovery bag.

    Maybe rig one up and make one? Good for spot blasting.

    [​IMG]
     
  16. losh1971

    losh1971 Well-Known Member

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    I have been considering a small gun to blast small areas, like the folded edge of a tailgate. Probably use less air too. I have a pretty big compressor and i still need more air to run the blaster continuously for like 30mins, without the occasional stop to recharge.
     
  17. losh1971

    losh1971 Well-Known Member

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    Mech had a look at the leak today. He removed the dished pan and it would appear that the rear main is ok. What he found was a couple of the rear sump bolts had come slightly loose. I'm hoping that tightening them up has fixed the issue.
    Heading home tomorrow and i will get it over the pit and give it a really good clean and then check it again in a couple of weeks.
     
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  18. losh1971

    losh1971 Well-Known Member

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    Bit more painting.
    20200111_131528.jpg

    20200111_131215.jpg
     
  19. losh1971

    losh1971 Well-Known Member

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    Painted the rail as well but i am thinking i won't fit it until I'm home next. Acrylic takes a couple of weeks to harden, and i don't want to mark it. Thinking I may even put some Raptor on before i fit the rail. Not sure though as i may not have spare coin before i head to SA.
    20200111_134108.jpg
     
  20. ringfeder3

    ringfeder3 Active Member

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    I dont think the issue is with marine carpet deteriorating from the moisture, its more probable that it will trap moisture beneath it causing damage to the tub underneath.

    A perforated rubber mat would let air circulate.
     

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