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Losh's VR Ute build thread

gtrboyy

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I'll be using $80-$90 speedo adjuster off delcohacking that unclefesty(?) Got it early last year BUT he can be tricky to get hold of him as rarely logs in these days.

It's similar to this https://www.marks4wd.com/mfksgi-100bt.html

Would buy that if I was in hurry or still doing customer cars...like it 'cos it's versatile as in 6 to v8 tacho or different signal speedo issues or just simple speedo correction.

This one is simpler version https://www.marks4wd.com/mfk1000.html


Those came up on first search previously saw them sold by rocket on ebay...I've had vdo speedo correctors before & failed jaycar unit but only watched yt clips on dakota digital items which seem decent.
 

losh1971

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Looked through ePrey for a VRS. Far out 230 bucks for an L27 kit, $130 for a 304 kit. I can buy a V6 kit locally for $225. No idea where else to Try and get one cheaper? Head overhaul gonna work out to $2k, if I pay to have it done or $1600 if I do it myself. Be nice to find parts at a better price.
 

losh1971

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Hey mate a while back you mentioned a comp bump if staying NA. How much is enough shaving off the heads to increase the comp but still leave the options open for boost down the track if I ever desire serious HP?
 

losh1971

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Been pricing up parts for top end overhaul. Found head bolts for $70, inc freight. Thinking I may have to replace the heads myself just to get the costs down. What I'd love is to rip them off myself, prep everything and have someone qualified come in and bolt the heads down. That will be the trickiest part and it's the one thing that's exi if it goes wrong. All the rest I have done before on this engine so will be easy enough.
 

Skydrol

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Why not torquing the bolts yourself? Is not that hard to do if you use a torque wrench and if they are TTY bolts, you can either get the dial or index the bolt heads. For example, from Flat to the next Flat (bolt head) is 60 Deg, from flat to edge, 30 Deg. So if you need 90 deg is Flat to Flat to Edge. Open End wrenches are angle 15 Deg. So if you see the wrench straight, the open end is 15 Deg, move it to straight, the handle will be 15 Deg.

We use that technique all the time in Aviation. Specially the T700GE700/701/701C turboshaft engines.
 

losh1971

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I have a decent torque wrench. Last head I replaced leaked a couple of years later. It was a Ford grey top though which I am pretty sure had a warped block. At least the spirit level had gap under it in the centre of the block, anyway. Should have binned that engine and dropped in a Tickford instead of rebuilding it with new rings and bigends and wasting a lot of coin on a POS.
 

losh1971

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I may end doing the lot myself, because I doubt a mechanic will drive out just to clamp down a pair of heads. I also have mentioned time the ute is off the road as another reason to have it done. Hopefully I can do the job over a long weekend and not get stuck without transport, if I do end up replacing them myself.
I'm really keen to get the ball rolling on this next stage but am not keen on pulling my savings to fund such a major job, not until I at least have the shed built. Even then I really need finance approval for the new house because we are going to need a substantial deposit since the second home is probably going to be kept.
 

Skydrol

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And if the mech goes on site, I bet that will not be cheap either. I would charge a pretty penny to do a house call.
 

losh1971

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We do have blokes that are mobile but they may want to do the entire job, because of the risk I could jack up, even though I done most of the work and really have no come back or grounds for a warranty claim.
 

gtrboyy

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I wouldn't shave them just skim if forced induction is end goal.Other reason is if comp stays where it is might not need have to tune agai.

The way I see if it stays n/a flat tops + thinner headgasket gets it there...shaving big chunk off heads to get decent comp means $$$ to machine heads then manifold to suit & probably pushrods to get rocker geometry correct again.
More coin again for a tune.


Buick are very low comp....almost ideal from factory to turbo.
Turbo the buick or bolt in l67.

Ported heads by good porter will get you some midrange torque but iirc dyno session told you manifold is already restricting what you have.


Reckon you should prepping engine for boost...good headgasket,arp stud kit or headbolts & springs but first hassle delcowizard for advice/recipe so you know what direction to go,parts required & keep to a budget.


You'll see why v8 conversion looks so simple in comparison lol
 
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