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Ls1 auto 4l60e conversion in Holden vh

justin.1992

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Hey guys, so the conversions in under way. Removing all the old 202 bits going to take some photos and upload here and keep a thread going for my build plus any questions people or I might have.

So first question has anyone done this conversion before and had to bash the tunnel out? I've done a vl ls1 6 speed and it fitted perfect. Wanna bash everything out first so when I paint it I'm not hitting nice new paint.
 
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vrsprspt

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Sounds awesome.

My first car was a VC so have a soft spot for them, am subscribing to this thread so can have a watch of the progress. I reckon if you did a search on here there would be some info that would help you along the way

Good luck! :spot on:
 

justin.1992

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There a lot of mixed suggestions. Some say it fits others say you need to trim find and bash the tunnel on top of that. But I want to find someone who has done it
 

boingk

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Hey mate may take some minor clearancing with a hammer to the trans tunnel as a 4L60E is a big beast, but from what I've seen Tuff mounts for engine and gearbox and Pacemaker headers should do the trick.

- boingk
 

gtrboyy

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No 2 cars are alike or conversion,some fit with just minor issues some require trial fit engine in/out a few times to make mods.Some are that bad rack needs moving over while others can get away minor mods.

Heaps of things depend on crossmember & steering being used,conversion kit bought,what engine mounts,extractors etc....

early crossmember & manual rack,some just clear others usually need rack moved.

later vn-s crossmember,powersteer,some fit nice maybe just spacers under engine mount,it varies

Most like tri-y extractors for fitment usually easier, 4-1's can be really tight
 

Not_An_Abba_Fan

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I've done an LS1 into a VC. Had to do a bit of massaging where the shift lever is. I used the original trimatic cross member, I elongated the trans mount holes a bit more and flipped it upside down and it fitted fine. I used a manual rack and extended the coupling. You can space the K Frame down a bit and you won't need a starter relocation.

I've got a mate over here that does a kit conversion for $650, he also does a set of 4-1's for $550. I keep telling him he's too cheap. I haven't seen the kit or the headers myself so I can't attest to the quality, but knowing him, it will be good.

I made 1 3/4" primary 4-1's for the one I did, it was a burnout car so it will never be registered. I sectioned the chassis rail to get the headers in and moved the rack over about 15mm. I didn't space the K Frame down on that one though, but I also had to grind the casting lumps off the starter to get clearance for the steering coupling.
 

justin.1992

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Thanks for the replies guys.
So update ls1 is in. Car is fully stripped apart dash. Turbo manifolds will be getting build mid next week. Got some bashing to do so I can try and fit my nice 4" dump pipe. Wiring is under way making a stand alone harness, and I love wires said no one ever. Pictures are to follow soon on iPhone so can't upload and turns out it's a vh not vc
 

Not_An_Abba_Fan

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The wring harness is fairly simple. It's pretty much stand alone as it is. I stripped out a couple of sensors from the harness as I wasn't using them. Basically just the injector power for each bank, main ignition power, ECU power and a few earths to hook up.
 

justin.1992

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Got a full print out off the wiring diagram and found all the wires I need. I have no idea how these auto elecs on eBay charge $900 exchange on your harness to do it. #### all materials
 

Not_An_Abba_Fan

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I know hey. Took me about an hour to open it up, unpin what I didn't need, reroute it to suit the engine bay and then wrap it all up again. Looked like a big mess of multi coloured spaghetti when I was doing it, but it's not as hard as people say it is.
 
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