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LS1 conversion

vc commodore

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No I call out BS when I read it.
If people get left to bull shite on forums mechanical wives tales spread at the detriment to the industry I work in.

You are detrimental to the industry...You're the one speaking a load of bulldust, posting up bulldust youtube videos showing power crap that doesn't get used in real life street driving.

How about you get a grip on yourself, get into the real world, instead of living in fantasy land.....
 

vc commodore

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Shane before sprouting your mouth off and call my post BS, come to Launceston and have a drive of my ute in stop start traffic, where you have 8 sets of lights in a 2km trip, with inclines. If you can manage that and not have can hop problems and not ringing out in first gear, then I will agree you can say what I said as BS..... Until then you don't have a leg to stand on. I live it every day, so I think I have a pretty good idea.....
Just in case you're unaware there is also forum etiquette if you disagree you don't call BS. You say it politely like others do, and you provide an explanation that backs up what your saying. Both of the former you don't ever seem able to do.

You're game wanting him to drive your ute..... :p

Is your insurance company understanding, because I reckon they'd be a little annoyed having 2 claims within a year...:)
 

NS245

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If it was me I'd run a mild cam in it like a 224/228 or so. It'll make more power all over compared to the stock cam. Great street cam and with a light car like a vs will do the goods.

You'll pick up 40 rwhp or so and a good 10-12% gain in almost all places over 3k rpm. With how light the vs is that would go 110+ mph with headers and a tune .

If worried about emissions just fit some euro 4 cats and find a VT block for easier emissions lol.
Cheers mate, I’ll look into those euro cats your talking about. Would you know where I would pick some up from? Because it would be a heap easier to put the cam in and freshen up the motor while it’s out.
I have some homework to do and a few people to contact now after the advise the fellas have giving me so it’s much appreciated.

cheers for the help fellas! Once it’s done I’ll post up what I ended going with on the motor and how the engineers certificate went. And the emissions test etc. for anyone interested and people doing the swap.
 

gtrboyy

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Nothing wrong spending money on short diff gears & decent sized stally or nice clutch on basically stock engine....stock Ls1 & 304 setups like that are the best bang for buck with nicest street manners.

Might not be the fastest but will be more fun & reliable cruiser on the street where driven the most.
 
H

harrop.senator

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Cheers mate, I’ll look into those euro cats your talking about. Would you know where I would pick some up from? Because it would be a heap easier to put the cam in and freshen up the motor while it’s out.
I have some homework to do and a few people to contact now after the advise the fellas have giving me so it’s much appreciated.

cheers for the help fellas! Once it’s done I’ll post up what I ended going with on the motor and how the engineers certificate went. And the emissions test etc. for anyone interested and people doing the swap.

Dea and dandy exhaust stuff is quite cheap but I'm not sure how long they'll last. I prefer fitting the flat cats for ground clearance where I can. Magnaflow is a great brand though.

Euro 4 for petrol was 2007 or 2008+ in Australia .

I think petrol euro 3 was 2004 or 2005+

So if you get a block prefix before euro 3 came in and you only need to be euro 2 compliant legally I'd definitely say euro 4 with any camshaft will pass.
Screenshot_2021-11-19-14-31-46-96_260528048de7f2f358f0056f785be619.jpg

Screenshot_2021-11-19-14-26-45-33_260528048de7f2f358f0056f785be619.jpg
 
H

harrop.senator

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Also something to think about by time you fit a cam kit , oil pump , water pump and do the gaskets and seals you're probably in 2.5k or so and I'd be decking the heads etc. Plus most LS these days have 2-300k on them.

North Vic engines do reco exchange cammed LS1 for $5800 from memory. It's a big cam one of ask for something a little tamer.

But it's something to think about man. Having people build the harnesses , all the conversion gear associated and the engineering you're probably looking at a 20k job once all done and dusted.

Last time I had a car engineered was about $2.5.
The conversion kits $2.5 without tailshaft
New shaft is about $1000
Then there's the exhaust twin 2.5" for vs isn't cheap at around $1000 last time I looked.
Harness conversion $1-1.5
Tune $800

There's 10 or so before a motor and box.

What's the difference between a 15k job and 20 ( doing it yourself if you're paying someone to fit the price will jump up) it's a lot of saving either way and then you've got a zero km good as new warranteed motor.
 

losh1971

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Magna is good, but OP will need to quieten it down to pass noise I'd say. Mine is very loud and definitely defectable. I drive very sedately because of the noise and I clench my butt cheaks whenever I see police.
Will an engineer pass a car loping over even with Euros? I would have thought soon as they see it has a cam it's no pass? I only say that because the police will slap a sticker for a cam.
 
H

harrop.senator

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Magna is good, but OP will need to quieten it down to pass noise I'd say. Mine is very loud and definitely defectable. I drive very sedately because of the noise and I clench my butt cheaks whenever I see police.
Will an engineer pass a car loping over even with Euros? I would have thought soon as they see it has a cam it's no pass? I only say that because the police will slap a sticker for a cam.

Engineering is the only way to legally get rowdy cams licensed. As long as it passes the emissions it gets put on the modification permits.

The redback twin 2.5 sounds nice on my senator with a healthy cam and centre and rear mufflers. Keeping something quiet is easier the smaller the pipe I find.

When the senators resprayed and the Resto is done I'll be getting it engineered. Rowdy stroker with a raised skeleton and bulged bonnet to help clear the Harrop single plane.

As long as it's passes ADR's it's legal and that's the engineers job to make sure everything is safe and complies to our design rules.
 

achoo

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It's backed by a 5 speed and a 3.08 geared diff...If I don't give it revs, the bucket of junk bunny hops....I don't slot 5th until I'm doing 90 KPH, otherwise it labours...
Its not just the cam thats giving you issues, its the 3.08 diff is not good.
I have driven a few jap 5 speeds and you might as well stay in 4th to drive especially with a cam, 5th overdrive will save you a bit of fuel and really only good for long long interstate trips.

Around city speed with cam, 5th is never used and useless in traffic.
 
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