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LS1 conversion

achoo

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Cheers mate, I’ll look into those euro cats your talking about. Would you know where I would pick some up from? Because it would be a heap easier to put the cam in and freshen up the motor while it’s out.
I have some homework to do and a few people to contact now after the advise the fellas have giving me so it’s much appreciated.

cheers for the help fellas! Once it’s done I’ll post up what I ended going with on the motor and how the engineers certificate went. And the emissions test etc. for anyone interested and people doing the swap.
Just an extra to all the info already posted by others. Good point @Losh makes about noise in post #48.
Your engineer should/will do noise test.
Here in SA, last vk conversion we did at the govt vehicle inspection, the noise test pass was under 91dB.
 

vc commodore

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Its not just the cam thats giving you issues, its the 3.08 diff is not good.
I have driven a few jap 5 speeds and you might as well stay in 4th to drive especially with a cam, 5th overdrive will save you a bit of fuel and really only good for long long interstate trips.

Around city speed with cam, 5th is never used and useless in traffic.

The cam/gearbox/diff combo is there for what I want to use the car for....So, having the cam, 3.08 diff gears and the overdrive 5th is spot on for the country miles that car reguarly goes on....So it's not a trailer queen that sees it's life on a trailer...It actually gets driven everywhere...Town and country miles

Oh and it doesn't change the fact, you need more revs to get the car moving with the cam in it, compared to a stock cam
 

achoo

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You are detrimental to the industry...You're the one speaking a load of bulldust, posting up bulldust youtube videos showing power crap that doesn't get used in real life street driving.

How about you get a grip on yourself, get into the real world, instead of living in fantasy land.....
I am not on anyones side
but considering shanes post was not directed at you,
you can say you are doing back exactly what your complaining about and not really adding anything to the post.

And your earlier comment below just speaks for itself and I thought you can teach an old dog new tricks. :)
So cut posting up B/S Shane....It's obvious you're not a mechanics ass...
 

vc commodore

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I am not on anyones side
but considering shanes post was not directed at you,
you can say you are doing back exactly what your complaining about and not really adding anything to the post.

And your earlier comment below just speaks for itself and I thought you can teach an old dog new tricks. :)

Mine was a relevant post, unlike yours.....So move along
 

NS245

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Also something to think about by time you fit a cam kit , oil pump , water pump and do the gaskets and seals you're probably in 2.5k or so and I'd be decking the heads etc. Plus most LS these days have 2-300k on them.

North Vic engines do reco exchange cammed LS1 for $5800 from memory. It's a big cam one of ask for something a little tamer.

But it's something to think about man. Having people build the harnesses , all the conversion gear associated and the engineering you're probably looking at a 20k job once all done and dusted.

Last time I had a car engineered was about $2.5.
The conversion kits $2.5 without tailshaft
New shaft is about $1000
Then there's the exhaust twin 2.5" for vs isn't cheap at around $1000 last time I looked.
Harness conversion $1-1.5
Tune $800

There's 10 or so before a motor and box.

What's the difference between a 15k job and 20 ( doing it yourself if you're paying someone to fit the price will jump up) it's a lot of saving either way and then you've got a zero km good as new warranteed motor.
Yeh mate all those numbers are pretty much what I thought the costs would be. I came to the same end price, around the 20k mark. Hopefully I can do it a little under in the end. I’d still like to cam it straight away but if it’s going to cause me a headache I’ll just go with changing all seals gaskets, cold air intake, exhaust and headers, tune and some diff gears. The auto box I have has already been reconditioned and shift kitted. But I’ll get in contact with that Ls conversions place and see what they say. In the end I just want a nice tidy, reliable weekend cruiser so maybe I don’t even really need the cam.
 

achoo

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Oh and it doesn't change the fact, you need more revs to get the car moving with the cam in it, compared to a stock cam
If your carby/timing is tuned properly, actually with a manual 5speed with high 1st gear ratio you actually dont need more extra revs and you dont need to ride the clutch either.
If your carby/s is/are ratshitt and needs a recon or you have air leaks well certainly you will need a lot more revs to get going especially on a slope.
 

vc commodore

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If your carby/timing is tuned properly, actually with a manual 5speed with high 1st gear ratio you actually dont need more extra revs and you dont need to ride the clutch either.
If your carby/s is/are ratshitt and needs a recon or you have air leaks well certainly you will need a lot more revs to get going especially on a slope.

This post shows you are clutching at straws, making assumptions about my car's tune....So time to move on because you clearly have no proof these problems exist with my car.
 
H

harrop.senator

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Its not just the cam thats giving you issues, its the 3.08 diff is not good.
I have driven a few jap 5 speeds and you might as well stay in 4th to drive especially with a cam,

If it's a w55 or w58 5 speed bugger a 3.08 needs 4.1's minimum haha. Is that what you were getting at achoo?

Cause I've owned a set of 3.7's someone had fitted into one of my Silvia's and I was like na what is this few weeks later , 4.3 auto diff fitted thank you very much haha.
 

bluehighway

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Im gonna say what you might not want to hear...buy a genuine v8 car,,,If Holdens do go up in value it will be the genuine models that make the cut...modded cams etc will come second to stock standard, matching numbers....replicas will always be replicas..my 10 cents
 
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