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Lumpy Cam

Jecs

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this guy at my work was sayin he has a cam for a V6 ecotec and describin the sounds he made, it sound like it was a fully worked V8 with a cam that was hella lumpy (sound like it was gunna stall) i dunno if hes pullin himself, prob is.

if there was a cam this lumpy for the ecotec, what would it do to the power? (downlow and uphigh) and i believe the numbers *280* (or sumthin like that) came out describin the type of cam.
 

Spaced

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As I understand it with a lumpier cam you will lose a bit of low down power and gain more on the middle to upper end of the rev range. I haven't done enough research on cams to tell you from the specs either way. If he has had a dyno tune check his graph it will give you a good idea. Write down his cam specs and chuck em up and someone more experienced will be able to tell you for sure.
 

joesvs

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try this link

http://www. crowcams .com.au/templates/Catalogue-HoldenV6.shtml

the biggest cam that crow make for a ecotec has 276 duration so i guess 280 sounds right.
to run this cam properly he would have to have a decent set of heads and equipment.
So what would it do for power? if it had the cam in the right set up it would go like the clappers

more info about cams
http://www. popularhotrodding. com /enginemasters/articles/hardcore/0606em_camshaft_specs/index.html
 

Adzzaman

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I have the biggest off the shelf crow cam but for the buick motor, and its not like what was described earlier by Jecs work mate. Its different but not like a V8.
 

253@7k

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I would say it would be a custom grind, if it actually exists.

specs such as:

Solid cam, 270-280 intake, 280-290 exhaust with about 108-110 degrees lobe seperation would give that kind of idle.

Would need good heads, springs and roller rockers with a free flow exhaust and good intake set up. That sort of set up would make for a very quick car indeed. Seriously hot car and a bitch in traffic.
 
H

Headpounder

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wassup

just telling all u people out there with cams and **** it does **** all, I have crow cams stage 2 and yella terra 1.9;1 ratios head work pacemaker extractors race my mates VX v6 5 speed with just extractors and eats my car every time whats the go with that?? And about power theres notthing down low but once u rev it over 3000 RPM then it will start kicking in.And with the lumpy cam there all like that , when i sit that the lights the revs go crazy sit's at normal 800 rpm and then it gos a little under and boom till 1100rpm man it feels like it's going to stall every time. And if any body know why the hell does my motor run so ****ing hot , i drive it normally around the block not giving it to her. when i check the engine its hot like a mother ****er??
 
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sircruisealotVS

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that guy wouldnt be pulling your leg, a cam can definately make that sort of sound, even in a v6. i know my cam (which isnt overly big, as ive got r/r too) is pretty bloody rough at idle, keeping it in one place at lights,etc.. is hard sometimes too, each power stroke it wants to lurch forward with the torque its making even at such a low rpm.
 

Immortality

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bigger cams, especially around the 270 duration need high stall converters to make em work properly. your mate beating your arse cause when you floor it the converter stalling at about 1800rpm which is way below where your cam is making any power. you need at least 2500-2800rpm stallie in there. all the heat is being created by the tranny and converter. fit a big trans cooler kit as the trandard holden job is only good for someone wh o drives like a granny all the time. holden recommend fitting there extra trans cooler kit if the vehicle is used for towing etc so that says enough about the standard trans cooler
 

VT-565

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slundy said:
specs such as:
Solid cam, 270-280 intake, 280-290 exhaust with about 108-110 degrees lobe seperation would give that kind of idle.
Would need good heads, springs and roller rockers with a free flow exhaust and good intake set up. That sort of set up would make for a very quick car indeed. Seriously hot car and a bitch in traffic.
For one, why would you put solid lifters in an everyday street car? better off keeping it hydraulic to cut down on maintenance.
then again, you dont need a solid cam to make that idle, you can do it with a hydraulic cam, a roller is different again because of the lobe profile.
 

Immortality

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you can have both solid roller cams and hydraulic roller cams. solid is for outright performance really. roller cams can lift the valve quicker that the old follower etc but need greater spring pressure to make sure the roller stays on the cam cuase if it bounces it will destroy the roller follower very quickly indeed. getting of topic here though. the biggerthe cam the more power you make up high in the rev range but unfortunatly you loose just as much down low where you drive your street car most of the time and therefor would be absolutly no good really:bang:
 
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